Prius (2001-03) :: Regenerative Braking Works Intermittently When Depress The Brake Pedal
Jul 5, 2010
I have a 2003 Prius that I have had about 4 years. It has under 80,000 miles on it and I have the Ecrostech Scanner which I have had for about 3 years. For the time I have had the Ecrostech I have noticed times when the regenerative braking was not working when I would depress the brake pedal. I understand the regen does not work from about 7 mph and below but my system often does not work even when it is above that speed. I have not been able to force it into regen. It seems to have a mind of its own as in perhaps a faulty ecu.
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I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.
I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.
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2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
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So I noticed this has happened a few times.. If I press on the brake pedal too hard, the indicator light will come on and then turn off a few moments after I depress the brake pedal. This has happened when the car is stationary as well as when I was coming to a stop, it's happened maybe 5 times since I picked the car up a few weeks ago. Is this normal behavior or an indication of a problem? Just an FYI, I'm not talking about when the indicators light up when first starting the car.. This is tied strictly to pressing the brake pedal hard.
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Not a Prius owner but am curious about the regenerative braking. When in regenerative braking mode, do the friction(disk) brakes stay off until regenerative braking fades or do they combine with regenerative braking (blended braking)?
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I'm just wondering while under regenerative braking, is the car braking with only the front two wheels? And four wheel braking starts when the friction brakes engage? Or does the rear drum brakes always engage even though the front is braking through the electric motor?
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Car makes louder than normal regenerative braking (Hybrid Sound). Seems normal when braking at high speeds... then when the speed drops below 30mph the sound is noticeable louder. See Video for example sounds while braking (17, 35 and 50 seconds into the video are most notable).
[URL] ....
Car drives normal other than the regenerative braking sound... Car was involved in a front end accident. Damages were repaired and seem minor. Front Bumper cover, hood, Radiator, Fans, RF Fender. Front cross member and other frame areas look untouched.
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I’ve searched for an answer to my question but have not found it yet.
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I've been having some issues with my FM radio for a while, I had really bad static when using the rear defogger but they have since replaced my back window under warranty and that has fixed it. Though, I'm still getting static or fuzz when my foot is off the gas and I'm either coasting and/or braking. When the signal is weaker it's really bad.
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Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
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I have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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So - I'm sitting at my VW dealership, hoping that their can figure out why I'm getting a high pitched, miserable squealing sound, every time I depress my brake pedal. It's metallic sounding, and with the history of brake issues I've had in owning other VW models, I just figured it was the brake pads they use. Sounds like their tech believes it is an issue with the tires??? I've got an 04 Phaeton with roughly 38K miles on it - and it's supposedly "certified"....
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I have a 2003 Mustang. The front brakes are new, and back brakes are OK. When I stop at a stop light, and depress the brake pedal firmly, the car continues to creep forward. I have to put it in neutral or park to get the car to a standstill.
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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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2009 Camry LE: my rear brake light doesn't work when braking (fully lit), but it works okay for night-time mode (dimly lit).
This problem is affecting just the right side. The left side is okay for both braking (fully lit) and night-time mode (dimly lit).
Troubleshooting: my deduction led me to believe that my bulb is not burnt out and the wiring harness and fuse are okay because the bulb can be lit during night-time mode, just not when braking. I also think that my brake pedal switch is okay because my left-side brake light is fully lit when braking. I can only speculate it's a circuitry/logic board problem of some sort; I'm just not sure where I can locate the problem.
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