My Explorer has been overheating for the last couple of days. It red-lines unless I turn on the heater, and then it still runs pretty hot. From all I can tell, there is plenty of coolant in it, and the fan is running.
The air conditioner went out about the same time (it goes in and out), but that may just need to be recharged.
I have a 2003 Accent and it has been over heating constantly for about 5 months. After it started, we replaced the main radiator hose, thermostat, radiator cap AND a head and head gasket. It worked for about 2 weeks and then over heated again. It seems like there is too much pressure somewhere because the lid for my reservoir shoots off and all the coolant comes out. I'm just not sure where to look for a clog since it is coming out of the reservoir. It also recently started having transmission problems(?) or that is what I think it is... It won't go in reverse and has a hard time shifting sometimes. I'm not sure if it could be related or if it is the tranny also.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Ranger XLT 4.0 . The air is on all the time no matter what position the selector switch is in except "off ".
View 4 Replies2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
View 2 Repliesl have a 2000 model accent and the air conditioner compressor clutch is not engaging . you press the 'AC 'button and the indicator comes on when a fan speed is selected which l am sure is the correct operation.l checked for 12 volts at the coil terminals of the relay and there is no 12 volts.l shorted the switch contacts of AC relay and the compressor did engage so the wiring from the relay base to the the compressor clutch is ok. l also checked the contacts of the 'AC' switch itself and it seems to be ok. l haven't had much luck with sorting out the wiring from the switch to the relay as l do not have a wiring diagram.
View 4 RepliesMy family has a 2003 Ford Explorer that overheats a lot. We have taken it to 16-17 garages and they cannot find out what's wrong with it. It overheats when its hot outside, or when we are going up hills. The temperature gauge does not gradually go from C to H It goes straight to H. Then we have to pull over and wait for it cool down, when it finally goes back to C we start to drive again. One time this happened 11 times in 1 day! We put an average of 45,000 miles on this car every year. We need a solution to this problem.
View 6 Replies2.5 months ago I had a coolant flush in my 2007 explorer Eddie Bauer. The last 3 days last week the temp gauge went from the middle where it usually sits, to maxed out in the red. Stays there for about 45 secs and then drops back down.
Is it coincidence that I had a flush and maybe they didn't fill it all the way back up or is it somthing else ?
One other thing- even when it sits in the middle of the gauge I can sometimes hear the engine sucking in air like a vacuum so I guess at certain times its running hot but just doesn't raise the gauge just yet.
my 2001 Ford Explorer has started overheating but there is no steam or water running out and when I turn the heater on I get slightly warm water what can I do? the temp gauge will go to hot and after a while will drop down then go back up to hot what kind of damage am I doing to my car?
View 3 RepliesMy 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
I had to replace the temp gauge in my 1996 Explorer. I also replaced the sending unit. Now, it is overheating, badly. I replaced the thermostat, twice. Filled the coolant and removed the air in the system. It seems to get good water flow, and there are no coolant leaks. The radiator looks clean, and the cap looks ok. But, as soon as the engine warms up, it goes right past the midline on the gauge all the way to hot - at idle. It gets worse if I drive it. I have grounded the gauge and it seems to be working fine. What could the problem be?
View 5 RepliesProblems overheating. Have replaced thermostat and the housing for it...fan clutch and water pump. Its still overheating especially going uphill when RPM's are higher. How can I check to see if there is a radiator blockage?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 sport trac that is leaking water like a hose but don't know if its a hose or water pump. How can you tell?? I have the water pump housing to change but when I fill the radiator and look under truck I see the water dripping out by the back side of the engine. Since I don't know where the water pump would be I don't know how to fix. I don't get taken to the cleaners when I get it fixed.
View 4 RepliesThe ABS comes on everytime I stop on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. This morning I had a scan tool put on and it showed all sensors working properly. The ABS Light never comes on when this happens. It has been doing it for some time now and I am about to go with new front pads and rotors. One weird thing I can be coming up a steep hill to a red light and when I slow down enough without touching the brake the ABS comes on. Not the light just the pulsating.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Explorer that the alarm goes off at any give time. It will even go off in the middle of the night. I have replaced the rear hatch and window sensors. It has been in the Ford shop many times for this and they can't find anything wrong.
View 9 RepliesOriginal owner, I'm not sure if this LED light on the dash was put on by the dealer or is it a factory install? I've tried many things and been through this site a bunch and can't seem to find a similar problem....
Currently, no matter how I enter my vehicle, I set off my alarm.
1. Unlock the door with key, no alarm until I lift the latch.
2. Press the first number in my 5 digit code: Alarm.
3. Press unlock or lock on my new fob: Alarm.
After alarm is activated, I can put my key in the On position and press the little button under the dash and the alarm goes off. So I'm getting around to the dismay of my neighbors, but I did recently unhook the horn to keep trying things.
Also important to note I guess is that the alarm sets itself no matter what I do when I exit the vehicle after 2 minute delay.
I hope it's a simple fix, but it doesn't seem to be. I've reset the fob, checked fuses, changed the battery and banged my head to no avail.
Another note is that this began on Super Bowl weekend when I drained my battery with a PA system hooked up to my cigar lighter in the tailgate and needed a jump start. My alarm hadn't previously worked for at least five years, but the LED would blink even while driving.
I would love to just unhook or disarm this alarm, plug my horn back in and end this nightmare. (hearing my alarm in my sleep from so many trial and errors)
I have been picking at an engine vibration for more than a year.
I have a '00 Explorer 302 V8 installed in an '82 Volvo. This engine/transmission has not been abused and only has 15k miles since it left the Ford factory. It was found intact on a pallet in dry storage. Everything was there as from Ford from the fan to the transmission output bushing. There is an engine vibration beginning about 2000 rpm in PARK so the problem is not in the transmission or drive shaft.
Perfectly smooth at idle and until you approach the start of the vibration.
Replaced the viscous clutch mechanical fan with duel electric so it isn't an out of balance fan.
Pulled the serpentine belt this afternoon and still have the vibration. Might have been a little less and I did find a idler pulley that had a little rattle but the big vibration is still there with only the harmonic balancer through torque converter rotating.
Replaced the pulley. Nothing else changed from when Ford built it.
No OBD codes.
I have a 2006 Explorer XLT. Each time I drive it, the trip miles have been reset to zero, and the gas mileage re-starts at zero, and the truck seems to not run as smoothly as it does in the midst of a couple hundred mile trip.
If I stop for gas and take the key out and open the door, the ECM seems to reset itself back to factory defaults. It don't seem to store anything. It seems like there may be a blown fuse for memory storage or something similar, but I haven't found a blown fuse anywhere. It acts like it would if you remove the battery ground and touch it to the positive to reset the ECM.
Which fuse this may be and its location? Is there another possibility of failure?
My 1997 Explorer 4.0 is giving me a run for my money. About a month ago, it started misfiring and threw a P0300, 301 and 306. It didn't misfire constantly though only most of the time; sometimes it would run perfect which leads me to believe the issue is electrical. I've had trouble with the coil before so I changed it and no difference. The next time I scanned it, there was only the 306 code. Next I made sure that cylinder six was misfiring and the rest were firing by pulling the wire off the coil.
All checked out but one and six. I've already checked the wires, they're both good. I swapped the plug on cylinders 5 and 6 in the hopes that the problem would follow the plug; nope. Fuses are all good. So I know the coil, wires and plugs are good. That leaves me with air and fuel. I can't imagine anything is wrong with the air intake seeing that it still runs. That leaves me with fuel. It has 200k on it and I've never done injectors. Maybe its injectors but why would they only be faulty part of the time?
My 2000 LS V6 is overheating. Fan seems okay. I replaced thermostat. Still overheating. What's weird is the 2 hoses above the thermostat housing are piping hot, while the hose beneath the housing is cool. Possible I replaced a bad thermostat with a bad one from the factory?
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2004 Explorer a couple of years ago and at the time some ot the windows only work some of the time. Then the drivers side fron and rear passenger window stopped working. Now all but the front passenger side stopped working. I've changed the master switch and no change. I know that it is probably a broken wire between the drivers side door and cab but can't understand how the front passenger side would still work if that was the case. If it wasn't grounded or if a wire was broken wouldn't all of the windows stop working? Also the rear passenger power door lock has all of a sudden stopped.....
View 14 RepliesSo my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.