My freestyle has 239K on it and the it has been infrequently having periods of starting the car and having no drive and then turning it off and every thing is fine when you start again. The other day it stuck in 3rd gear and wouldn't go above 50. We stopped the car and started it and ran fine but the check engine and transmission light came on.
View 3 RepliesI took our 2005 Ford Freestyle to get an oil change this morning. It is now shaking violently if we drive it more than 60 mph.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 SEL Freestyle with 114K miles. Cyl #3 missing. Has all the symptoms of a "lean misfire" - reading the code said #3. The indy mechanic already replaced the spark plug and the coil. Misfire still a problem. Tried to put some cleaner in there which did not work. He thinks the head needs to be replaced ....
The a/c is also busted. Needs a compressor. Not to mention I'm probably looking at brakes before much longer.
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle Limited AWD and there is a loud ticking noise at idle. It seems to quite a little when put in gear.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Freestyle with 59,xxx miles. My wife and I drive it less than 7,000 miles p/year. About six months ago it began to surge (we had already taken it back to the dealer for some work on a recall related to surges while idling). However, the surge that now occurs is not related to the recall--it can happen anytime, even when on the highway while in cruise control at 70 mph. It makes the driveability of the car questionable. We have had it back to the Ford deal repeatedly, only to be told a number of high dollar things that seem to be based on guesses rather than actual data. No codes have come up with computer diagnostics.
We have also taken to independent mechanics, only to be told there is nothing wrong. Only once did a mechanic say that he 'felt' the surging when he test drove the vehicle. But even then, the shop said that they would have to do a tune-up (which raised a red flag with me because tune-ups no longer seem to be the proper term to be used with modern engine maintenance). I did a lot of research and as a result I asked a mechanic to test the fuel pump. The result is that the low pressure was 39.5 lbs, and, the high pressure was also 39.5 lbs.
I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle 140,000 miles, that has kind of a hiccup miss also there are times when all of the gauges drop and them come back up. I have had the car at the dealership twice and to another mechanic. When I took it to the dealership the first time they told me that it was the spark plugs and the number 1 coil also had a mouse nest in intake manifold. I have replaced the spark plugs, coil 1, clean intake and replaced gasket, replaced MAF, fuel rail sensor and EGR as the codes have been read.
Last time I picked it up from the mechanic it started missing in less than 10 miles to the dealership. The computer said nothing at first then the mechanic took a drive with it. He did have the gauges drop. The codes said charging system. My other mechanic check the battery said it was charging fine and that the alternator and battery cables are all good. Dealership and mechanic are at a loss for what to do.
Last night I was sitting in the car looking for a button that had lost. The car had not been driven all day, off, no key in the ignition. I heard the static noise that I have become familiar with and looked at the cluster and the gauges were all at the below their normal off position shaking and then stopped and returned to normal position. Should I change cables, battery and alternator even when tested they say that they are OK?
My truck gear shift is stuck in Park (console type). I have been reading threads that discuss potential causes such as blown fuses, bad brake switch, bad brake shift interlock actuator, and even ignition switch. All fuses are okay. Before I try to get into all the other possibilities, I have a question around what the local auto parts worker suggested. He said that there is a small plastic piece that may have slipped down interfering with gear movement. This could make sense, especially since the white manual release lever doesn't seem to be moving.
View 14 RepliesSo I'm motoring along a country road with the cruise set at 50 mph and the truck starts to increase speed.
Tap the brake - nothing happens. I'm up to 65 mph! Knock it into neutral and it revs to around 3,500 rpms and then it unsticks.
What in the world is going on with that? After thinking on it, a few miles farther on and I set the cruise again.
It began immediately picking up speed. I hit the brake and nothing happened. Then I hit the off button and nothing happened.
So again I bumped it up into neutral and it did the same thing - revved for a moment and then kicked off.
The dealership where I get my service done can't get to it for several days. So I'm checking in the meanwhile to see possibilities to identify a cause.
So my wife's santa fe will randomly get stuck in 3rd gear and not shift up or down (automatically or manually). It does not appear to be slipping as it speeds up slows down fine. The check engine light is on but have not read the codes yet.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford Explorer and a few days ago it wouldn't start, it just clicked and the lights flashed. I put it on a charger overnight and it started right up. I took it to Autozone and he tested the starter, alternator and battery and said everything was green. It was fine until yesterday when I started it up and it ran a self test and gave me:
Ignition Key B
Serial # 00075194
Part # 4L2T-10849-CK
Diagnostic Trouble Code : 9318,9352 and D900
I looked through my manuals and can't find anything with codes. My friend says batteries don't last long in Florida, I have only been here a year from Michigan. I bought the truck in 2008 and have never replaced the battery. The guy at Autozone was reluctant to sell me a battery because he didn't think I needed one. I have never had any problems with this vehicle.
I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
View 13 RepliesLast fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
View 4 RepliesMy son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
View 1 RepliesOkay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
Five months ago I purchased a Saturn with 60,000 miles. Yesterday upon leaving my driveway it wouldn't shift out of first gear. Turned around , put it in the garage & tried to backup, put it in reverse & the vehicle would not move and the tranny made a loud whine. For the past two weeks the tranny made a loud " clunk " when it shifted into second, also on the highway it wouldn't shift into high gear & was running at 2500 rpm. Is this an electronic issue or more ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Ford Freestyle and last summer the A/C would only blow cold air when you would accelerate. If you were idling like at a stoplight it would blow warm air. I bought one of those freon refill kits and added freon but it said I was already over pressurized. So now that winter has passed I bought an AC manifold gauge kit and emptied the system and tried starting over. When I add freon the low pressure side goes up way too much and the high pressure side doesnt go up enough. So the low pressure side is over the recommended pressure and the high side is under the recommended pressure. Do I need to replace the compressor or is it something else? (I can also hear the compressor kick in when I put on the A/C)
View 5 RepliesI bought a 2005 camry at an estate sale last week. The serpentine belt was broken and guy running sale said the car set for 4 months and they jumped it off to start and it started and then died and wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my house. changed the water pump, idler tensioner, and new belt and now the car wont start. turns over good. so i changed plugs and still not starting. I will pull one plug in the morning and see if I'm getting spark. If not what would be next step.
View 8 RepliesThe other day my transmission was driving fine, until I stopped to let someone out. When I tried to throw it back into gear, it wouldn't engage at all, just had a slight grind almost like the sound of a chain coming off a bike (so I pushed back in the clutch and parked it). I haven't been having any issues with it nor have I been driving it hard.
View 2 RepliesI just had a leaking transmission seal replaced and I was told by the mechanic that the Freestyle was notorious for leaking. Is that correct?? Will this car need lots of repairs if I keep it.
View 5 RepliesMy stepmother has a 2006 Ford Freestyle AWD with a 3.0L Volvo engine. It seems to be consuming a great deal of oil. (Definitely not leaking it.) But not on a regular basis.... Within a couple weeks of changing the oil this time, it has consumed nearly 2 quarts! Other times it hardly uses any. This has been going on for a couple years now. She has taken it to the dealership numerous times and they cannot seem to find the issue. It doesn't have a "burnt" smell when I pull the dipstick either. The mileage is low as she hardly drives the car. (Under 80,000 miles) I've looked online and can't seem to find this problem elsewhere.
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