Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Truck Wandering To The Right
Nov 2, 2016
My 05 F250 CC 4x4 had a problem where it was wondering to the right.
I had the front end checked out and they said everything was good and within spec but they discovered a bad tire (internal belt separation).
Had two new front tires installed/balanced and the problem seemed to go away for a few months.
Now the problem is back even with the new tires. Could the steering box cause this or is there something else I should be looking at?
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I have a 2012 F250 4x4 6.7L Diesel with around 114k miles on it. Jut in the past couple weeks it has produced this issue: At start-up/during warm-up it when I make a turn (left or right) and hit at least 40mph the steering feels heavy and pulling to the right, all of a sudden it seems to release and dart a little to the left. It does this for about 10 miles then it is fine. Steering is a little loose, 114k miles and previous owner had a plow on it but once it straightens out it is fine for the rest of the 45 mile treck. Tires are new Goodrich All Terrains, no visible signs of a belt being broke.
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I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
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I have a 2005 Ford F-250 Powerstroke. At times when stopping at light or for any reason, I give it gas but it does not want to go. It's like it is not even registering that I am pushing the pedal. I shift it into neutral and rev it up then switch it back to drive and it goes and puffs out smoke. What is going on?
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So, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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So today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
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I drove my 03 f-250 to work Monday everything was good no issues. At end of my shift truck will not start . turn key dash lights up glow plugs cycle turn to start nothing . Does not turn over. after some checking batteries are good. Starter will crank if i manually engage it but truck will not run even with jumping starter with ignition turned on . hooked scanner up says cannot communicate. Checked fuses etc fuse #31 has no power to it (trans range selector and starter relay)question is where to look next?
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I am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
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I have a 2004 F250 with a 6.0l Diesel and a 5 speed automatic. The truck is 4 wheel drive. As far as I know it is completely stock and has 236,500 miles on it. I thought that I was having stiction issues because when the truck is cold and when driving ~55 mph (1500 rpm) in 6th, the truck shudders until ECT gets to about 150F. This is at a constant speed, when accelerating or decelerating it doesn't shudder. Today I held 40 mph (1500 rpm) in 5th and there was no shudder. I don't know the TFT the shudder goes away at because the epiphany about the transmission was today. Once warmed up there is no to very slight shudder and only around 55 mph (1500 rpm). Above or below that the shudder goes away.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
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I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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So pulling my trailer and 4x4 and the truck dies without any other symptoms. No check engine light all other electrical remains working. This happened 6 times this trip always while pulling a grade but only after the truck has been running for a few hours. Each time, no warning and once the truck has set for 5 to 10 minutes it start up like normal. The longer i let it set the longer I can run before it does it again. ICP is 550ish at idle, 200ish while cranking. Check the FICM before the trip and it was at 47.5 to 48.5v key on engine off and running. STC, stand pipes, dummy plugs, ball cups have all been done.
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I've got a problem with an '05 f-350 with the 6.0. Initially I had a code for the #1 glow plug so I replaced the plug and the code was still there. Next I tested the harness and the rest of the plugs on the same harness and everything checked out fine. This lead me to the Gpcm which I then replaced. The first thing I noticed was when removing the old Gpcm I got a spark when removing the mounting nuts.
When I installed the new Gpcm the truck started fine and no codes came up so I thought all was good till I went to start the truck the next day and the batteries were dead. I thought I possibly left something on so i started charging the batteries but noticed they seemed to have a draw on them. I put my hand on the new Gpcm and it was very warm with the key off so I have the batteries disconnected till I can figure this out.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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This isn't my truck, but I'm trying to diagnose it for a friend and I haven't seen it. He's scanning it with a high-end Matco scanner so I'm not convinced that the scanner is reading right but here's what I've got:
P0056 (2), P0161, and P0300 (random misfire detected). The first two are "gasser" codes and don't show up in the 6.0 bible code list so I'm wondering if they were added in to some of the later flashes??
The truck has a "new" OEM turbo and won't build over 18 psi of boost but, according to the owner, who is a decent mechanic, it's absolutely clean inside. Looking for about the weird codes it's throwing?
All my years of information on 6.0's was stolen with my laptop last year ....
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Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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