I have a 2006 250 ford, just put new head gasket with head studs, new oil cooler, deleted the egr by welding it, ran good for hundred miles but flushed it out and filled it with antifreeze and now it's steaming, sometimes it will do it and sometimes it won't and I can't figure it out.
View 14 RepliesWtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F250 with the 5.4l. I got home today and a lot of steam was coming from under the hood. I couldn't see where it was coming from. I see a reflection on top of the engine near the intake manifold. The truck is not overheating and the heater is working great. I changed the thermostat several months ago. What the issue may be. I checked the dip stick and not visible signs of water in the oil. What this could be? Is there something besides the visible thermostat housing that may have blown a gasket?
View 1 RepliesSo the last 3 or 4 times I have filled up my truck the needle on the gas gauge only goes up to about the 3/4 mark. What this could be? And how I could fix it?
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
View 3 RepliesI have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
My 2006 F-250 6.0PSD has a new hitch. Tonight it would not start once hot. It cranked and cranked but no start. My scanner showed ICP readings of 366PSI during cranking. Far below the 500PSI needed before the computer will fire the injectors.
So is this the STC fitting at the HPOP that is failing? If so how long will she start cold and drive normal before she leaves me stranded? I have the fittings and new dummy plugs and stand pipes as well. I was waiting to to do this work until I had the money for an new EGR cooler and oil cooler.
I know my oil cooler is failing as my deltas are showing a 15-19 degree spread over my coolant temps.
I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2011 Ford F-350 with 6.7L I have had cooling issues when pulling a trailer up a grade it heats up where it hadn't in the past. I had it in the shop 4 times before it went out of warranty and they changed the oil cooler and thermostat. The last time it was in the shop was November which it was to cold out to duplicate problem. It's heating up on just about every grade and now it's out of warranty when it should have been fixed last year.
I'm guessing it's the water pump because when I changed the antifreeze there was metal shavings in it. I told my dealer about it and they said it was probably from manufacturing. I haven't called dealer yet because I think it should be covered under warranty since the problem was never fixed after being in the shop last year!
I have an 2007 6.0 turbo diesel with approximately 120,000 miles. I have not done any work on the truck other than change the oil and fuel filters the last 9 years. Lately the check engine light came on and every now and then I can smell antifreeze in the air vents coming out. What may be causing this? I am looking to upgrade for more power and do a few things to the engine to make it bulletproof. I have heard something about and EGR bypass or something that I need to do. Not sure I fully understand it and what does it fix or what it will cost me. I have also heard something about head gaskets and head bolts. I may do the work myself if its not too complicated. What all needs to be done on this engine to make sure it stays strong for years to come. What is the best engine tuner/chip for more power?
View 14 RepliesSo today on my way home from work. I got off at my exit and when I went to step on the gas I lost power and the truck wouldn't exceed 15 mph. It would just rev up and down. It was pouring white smoke from the tailpipe. At one point it went back to normal and started running fine for about 10 seconds. Then it went back to doing the same thing losing power and spitting smoke. I limped the truck into a parking lot and called a ride. I'm having a tow truck pick it up on Monday and take it to the dealership. Is this a head gasket issue? And I feel like it's going to be expensive. 2006 F250 6.0L .....
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 powerstroke with 100,000 miles and it puts out a puff of smoke at cold start up every time and also when I run it then park it for maybe 1 1 1/2 and it puts out a puff and also I noticed when I get to work with is about a 20 minute drive I get there around 8 then leave at 5 I noticed it puts out a puff then if I watch the exhaust I can see a slight haze but I figured it's just condensation.
Here's the list of stuff I have put on the truck... Oringed heads by librator performance, with oem gaskets every thing, arps head studs, egr delete, airdog 2 fuel system,mtw stage 2 turbo, bulletproof ficm,coolant filter, banks intake, fuel pressure set at 68 and fuel regulator return.
Here's a list off parts I put on trying to fix the smoke I put in 5 injectors because the ford ids had a slight change and after that it was straight line I put in hpop and turbo drain pipe and I tested the ficm and its 48 with the key on and cranking and running...
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 with 218xxx on it. Have had a ton of issues since day one, but I finally thought I had gotten a handle on all of them until the other day. Truck started sounding a little rough, no noticeable effect on performance, no codes on my Edge CTS (except one random CKP sensor code that went away). Was leaving work later that day to go home and it started up fine.
Got about a 1/4 mile from the shop and went to turn onto a busier road so I put into the pedal a little bit. Truck immediately lost power. Sounded like a turbo boot blowing and I had very little throttle response. Immediately pulled over and checked codes with truck still on, nothing. Got out and popped the hood with the truck still idling to check for CAC tube/boot etc. As I was looking at it, the engine started screeching. I shut it off as quick as I could get back to the cab.
Looked over everything, nothing noticeably wrong. Went to crank it to see what it would do. All i got was a noise from the starter engaging. Belt not turning over. Tried unplugging the fan clutch (read a thread with similar symptoms and that was the issue for them), connected the starter solenoid directly to battery, same issue. Removed belt and attempted to crank. Same thing. Removed all glow plugs to check for hydrolock. Motor slowly would turn with belt still removed and no glowplugs. Removed starter and tested outside of vehicle, solenoid and motor both seem to be ok.
I have an 06 F-250 super duty with 26000 miles.. Was wondering if i need to change my air filter or wait awhile longer. It doesn't look bad but have never seen a filter quite like that one either..
View 12 RepliesI have been dealing with a oil leak for quite some time now, oil seeping from what appears to be around the cam sensor. About a year ago I pulled the cam sensor replaced the o rings that were cracked and split out figured that was my problem. drove it for another year continued to have same seeping oil leak. cleaned it up real good dyed the oil and checked again and seems to be same issue same spot around cam sensor. Pulled it again o rings are perfect but it seems as if that is where the leak is seeping from based off the uv dye I used. is there something else right around the cam sensor that I am missing that could be the cause? I have checked ipr, crank, dip stick, hpop cover, valve cover, glow plugs, a few other spots and have found no other leaks from any other than around that came sensor.
2006 F250 6.0 King Ranch
I have a 06 6.0 f-250 it cranks but won't start untill I pull the secondary fuel filter cap off and seems to vent air in the system out then it starts right up. I can't figure out where it's sucking air. Here's my question I changed the fuel sending unit in the tank a few weeks ago and had a hard time seating the lid on top of fuel tank. If it is not completely seated will this cause air in the fuel system and give me the headache I've been dealing with?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 with 99,000 that puts a puff of white with a tint of grey that smells like unburnt diesel smoke at start ups it will do it cold ever time and will do it when i let it sit for maybe a hour but not every time. I've noticed I had higher egts then before also not sure if it's related at all or not. I had on the ids the graph was a straight line for the injectors, pressure checked the coolant cold and hot doesn't loose pressure. No puking, New hpop. Here's what I have done to it, oringed heads,arp studs,remote oil cooler, factory injectors,egr delete,air dog 2 fuel system, coolant filtration, bulletproof ficm, regulated fuel return, stage 2 mtw turbo,CCV mod, banks air intake. I'm stumped!
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
I have a O6 F250. Egr delete and a new oil cooler 20k ago. I have been dealing with missing coolant for about 6 months. A little here or there but it has gotten really bad the last few weeks. My last attempt was to replace the degas cap. Stopped the missing coolant for a 30 mile trip. Just to clarify it had gotten to the point I was adding one gallon per 20 miles. Needless to say I was thrilled. Next morning I came out to find coolant under the truck. Plastic Y under degass, so I replaced it. 25 miles and none missing. Next morning fluid under the truck. Now it's the egr hose.
Replaced it with a gates hose and new clamps. Fill it up with coolant go inside and its leaking in the same location. Its a pure pleasure to undertake. So I assume these leaks weren't previously leaking because the degass cap wasn't pressurizing the system. That being said the leak is on the oil cooler side of the egr hose. The snap lock fitting that was on the original housing spins around. Should that locking mechanism be removed before the hose is secured and clamped? This is the only thing I can come up with as the culprit. I have searched the information on the site but can't find any mention of it needing to be removed. The clamps are the right width and everything is seated.