Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2007 F350 Not Starting - Running Rough - FICM?
Mar 4, 2016
I just bought a 2007 F350 6.0 two days ago, so I was giving the truck a good wash today using a electric pressure washer. The engine bay was pretty dirty so I decided to take some soap and a brush to it. After cleaning it I let it sit for a while in the sun to dry. (engine was stone cold). After it had completely dried out I go in and it cranked right up. I let it idle for a good minute-minute and a half put it in drive and pulled away slowly, right when I touched the accelerator it started running rough, so I popped it into neutral and let it idle for a sec but it was still running really rough so I cut it off not wanting to damage anything worse.
I let it sit and tried to start it again, it just turned over and over. I checked the oil level it was good. So I pushed it back into my driveway to figure it out. I took ICP connector out and tried to start it, just turned over and over. took fuel filter out it was just replaced 2K miles ago it looked a little dirty but not super bad. I put that back in. took icp out again and tried to start it and it started but ran super rough and was dumping black smoke out.
I checked back all ficm connectors and they were all connected. I haven't checked the voltage on that yet, but plan to do that tomorrow. the previous owner had the ficm go bag about a year ago and he sent it off to ficmrepair.com and they fixed it for him. also he had the stand pipes and dumby plugs done as well as the stc on hpop. im kinda at a loss on where to go now other than to check voltage on ficm.
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I have a 2006 F350 with around 208k mikes, automatic with a no start, 0 No FICM Sync.
The CMP and CKP has "no / 0" for synchronization and a "NO" synchronization from the FICM. Should this be "yes / 1" when trying to start?
The camshaft position sensor status indicated "yes fault".
FICM is at 48V,
DTC currently on
P2614 camshaft position signal output/open circuit - CMP
Glow plug circuit cylinder 2, 4, 5, 6 (these have been on for 12months and 1,000 miles and never had an issue starting)
B1352 - left front temperature damper motor
B1360 - left rear temperature damper motor
U1900 - CAN - communication BUS fault
I am running all OEM filters
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2006 F350 6.0 ... I am piling up parts for a bulletproof party later this summer. It has gotten grumpy ahead of schedule. I will hook up the AE tomorrow for consultation.
In the meantime. Running rough at 50. Seems to accelerate from a stop semi ok. Sitting at idle, holding rpm at 1750 I hear kind of a thump under the hood and the rpm drops 300, then slowly finds it way back to 1750 and it repeats itself.
This thump has not been noticed in the past. Could this be the VGT not working as expected?
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I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
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I have a buddy at work who has an 04 f350 6.0 that is running very rough. we put a scanner on it and disabled the injectors and 1,7,8 have no change. He checked the FICM voltage and is getting 48 volts on crank and run. He checked the wiring for anything loose or rubbed but nothing seems wrong.
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Pulled the trigger today and bought a 2004 F350 DRW King Ranch with 200000 miles. Using Forscan Lite on my iPhone, KOEO FICM voltage was right at 48. During start it went up a bit. While out for my highway road test for EOT/ECT differential (never went above 10 degrees).
I noticed that the FICM voltage would drop to the bottom of the Forscan scale (40 volts) when I was accelerating and then go back to 47.5 when I reached my cruising speed. Is this normal?
Batteries are brand new from Ford. I didn't notice the battery voltage. Truck seems to run great to me, but this is my first 6.0. I also got DTC's for all 8 injectors saying Injector Circuit Low.
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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2007 350 the truck sat overnight (15 hrs) I went to start the truck and it had to crank for about 3 seconds which is abnormal for my truck?? It was about 80 degrees outside. Is there any reason for that?
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So after replacing all injectors, I was getting a rough idle and drive. Got an imbalance on 5 & 4. Cleared out codes and 5 still showed. The guy doing my work and I couldn't trace it to anything so we thought well maybe we got a bad one. Did fail the buzz test. So got a warranty one and put in. Wouldn't you know it's still not running quite right. Only thing we can think of is maybe the ficm is at the start of going out. Voltage reads good still though. Staying constant at 47/48. Is more noticeable to run rough when starting from cold then smooths out but you can still make out/feel an injector going in and out.
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2005 f350 6.0. I was driving my truck and it seemed like someone had shut the fuel off to truck ! i had it towed to the house and was doing research and watch a video on checking the ficm with a volt meter..when i touch the positive post from meter the ficm started smoking and sizzzling...but back tothe truck when i try to start it i have no pre warm up sounds coming from the truck and the truck just turns over strong ..no start...i was going to replace the ficm but didnt want to spend the money to fry another if that is not my problem..also the # 5 fuse under the hood keeps blowing.
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I have a completely stock 2007 F350 turbo diesel with 98000 miles that i just bought . When accelerating from a stop, it runs so rich that it will barely move and it accelerates very slowly . It burbles excessively and spews black smoke . It slowly builds rpm . As it builds rpm it runs slightly better and the black smoke turns into a medium gray the faster it goes . It takes around 20 seconds to reach 3000 rpm on level ground with the accelerator pedal half way down . Once it reaches 3000 rpm, it runs fine and hauls a_s but looks like it still smokes a little.
The temp gauge stays right in the middle and it does not run hot . It starts and idles fine. The check engine light is on but i have not read the codes yet and can't do that until monday. I have read that it could be an injector that is stuck open but do not know how to check for that. I am a vintage car mechanic and engineer but I know zero about newer computer vehicles and very little about diesels.
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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I have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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The other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
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I have a 04 6.0 and lost with it. I parked it the other night and in the morning I went to start it and it acts like it's only running on half the cylinders. I haven't had any issues till now so I replaced fuel filters and air cleaner is fresh but no change. It is not throwing a check engine light it isn't smoking excessively. I don't know where to check next.
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Well, I've read a lot of threads on this problem! Try to do my own repairs, so I'm learning and not spending a lot of cash at repair shops.I have an 04 6.0 Super Duty Crew. Starting running rough on way home. Pulled over ,then it died.wouldn't start. Had towed home. Replaced ficm circuit board. No start. Replaced Harness,
icp...... ipr Sensors. Still no start. I noticed there is another circuit board inside ficm. Should I have bought the whole ficm unit?
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2011 F350 diesel with 10,000 miles. I have been experiencing problems with the truck loosing power, making rough running noise (pinging like an older diesel), and vibrating. As though the motor is bogging down. It usually occurs on small inclines or hills with the truck in higher gears and low rpms. It will also occur running on flat ground 65-70 mph. Had it occur once while turning the truck around in 1st gear and low rpms. Depressing the accelerator will bring the truck out of it.
This problem occurs randomly sometimes a couple of times a week to not at all. Took to dealer and they found no codes and of couse it didn't do it on the hour long test drive I took the mechanic on. However they did say they had two other owners come in with the same complaints, but could not get trucks to repeat the issue. Problem usually occurs in the hotter part of the day, maybe just coincidence. I had seen similar posts with this problem but no conclusions.
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
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