Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Coolant Gurgling In The Dash Area On Start Up?
Jan 20, 2016
Didn't think anything of it but i have noticed a few times this week when i start the truck after it's to temp, shut down for an hour, the restart I hear coolant gurgling in the dash area? Was very noticeable this evening. Still no overheating and heat blows nice and hot. Still getting the blows warm to a certain temp, then cold to a certain temp, then hot once to temp then will stay hot until fully cold soaked. Think my tstat is not acting right?
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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I have a 2003 6.0l... When I first bought truck, seemed to run fine. Since then truck has broke down on me once. I took it on a six hour drive, and couldn't turn vehicle off, because if so, truck wouldn't start back up until cool. After getting to my destination, fans seemed very loud every time I pressed pedal, and seemed very sluggish. Drove it a couple days and boost was low and fans continued to sound like they werre engaging even when I first started truck for the day. Had truck towed to shop, because it cut off on me when driving.
At shop : Truck had air filter, water in fuel sensor, o-ring for draining plug, new ICP sensor and harness, and HFCM cleaned up as it was filled with gunk.
After shop : Fans quit being so loud, but have not had near the boost I had before issues started. Truck struggles to go from stop, and around 15 psi boost gauge starts shaking erratically. Also, I have been losing coolant in a short period of time, and can't see any leak coming from anywhere, and also my radiator has been making a sloshing/gurgling noise and it will stop, then come back all within bout ten seconds. And I guess while I'm writing, I should mention the bucking after it downshifts in about third or fourth gear giving it gas makes the truck buck until the RPMs are above 2000 or it upshifts or downshifts, and at an idle seems to miss until warm.
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I've just finished a marathon replacing the y-pipe, and doing the IPR screen. I had many seized/stripped bolts to contend with. 2 I had to cut off in the most awkward places.. Anyways, it all came together and completed the project late tonight...
Befoer even starting the truck I noticed coolant dripping from passenger side manifold/block heater area.. I obviously must have damaged something in my reefing on turbo to get it lined up with exhaust pipes, etc...
I cannot see the source of the leak, but it seems wet above the block heater, but pools there then drips.. I'm curious where to look. Could I have damaged the EGR cooler and its coming from there? At the manifold joint closest to the back, is there coolant flowing there? I am pretty frustrated, because after going through a day like to day, ripping my arms to shreds, straining for 12 hours straight, then having yet another issue to figure out...
Also this is as best as I could get the y-pipe to meet the turbo... slight gap at bottom.
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I've got a stock '15 F250 6.7 w/ the Diesel Site FF67 fuel/water separator and a 50gal Titan Tank. I installed the filter + tank at the same time around 2 months ago; A few weeks ago, I started noticing an odd buzzing/whirring/gurgling noise (both while the truck was running, and while the fuel pump spins up right after turning the key on). I made a quick video of it this morning:
Ford F250 6.7 w/ Diesel site filter DFCM buzzing/whining - YouTube
I thought maybe it was a filter related problem (I got some little black plastic bits in the filter after installing the Titan Tank, despite my best efforts to clean it out thoroughly before installing) - so earlier this week, I replaced both stock fuel filters, and both filters in the DS filter. Didn't seem to affect the noise from the DFCM at all.
I guess my question is - does it sound like this is sucking in air? I've never found any leaking fuel (even after a 3000mi drive from TX to VA and back), and the truck has never complained about low fuel pressure as I've read that some others have run into. But I don't remember the DFCM/low pressure pump being this loud before I installed the new parts.
I spoke to the folks at DieselSite a day or two ago (those guys are great), and they mentioned that sometimes the Ford quick-release fittings work themselves a little loose from the fuel hose during the filter install, and that putting a hose-clamp around the hose+quick release fitting may solve this; I ordered from clamps from McMaster Carr that arrived today, so I may give that a try tomorrow just to see if it changes anything.
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Gurgling/percolating sounds, car started making a few weeks ago. The sound is coming from deep inside our front dash area. We do plan on bringing it to our local VW dealers attention at next scheduled oil change. I started getting this noise as well about a month ago. My passengers commented about sounding like someone sawing inside the dashboard. I do like the percolating description better...
This is different than the other "running water" sound that you get when initially turning the car on. I was told that was normal.... This percolating sound happens while driving and I noticed that it does have the pattern of happening when at slow speeds or stopped in traffic (after driving fast for a while).
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i just installed the cups and injectors. well i have no start now i have covers off and getting no oil throw injectors passed buzz test . reserviour is full, so is under icp removed both after and had oil everywhere but also heard a gurgling sound.
Here a video of cranking : YouTube....
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I'm new to the diesel scene and I'm having trouble here i just replaced the head gaskets and did the head studs, also the EGR delete with oil cooler done all by me at home because I'm low on cash and the truck was pouring coolant through the turbo before due to overheating and bad egr and blown head gaskets i didn't have the heads checked before i installed them because I'm broke now and I need my truck but it wont start now and continues to spit and smoke coolant out the reservoir.
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I noticed about 1 year ago I had diesel in my coolant but wasn't sure.. took it to a Ford Guy about 45 minute's away.. He seems to know his stuff but when he tested the coolant the results said less than 2% diesel.. But he did find an injector issue and swapped it out..
Forward to present.. there is diesel in my coolant now , since the level is rising to almost overflow and I believe this has been doing on for quite some time as I have that smell you get in the cab..
BTW - All injector cups have been done about 3 Years ago.. On another note , I get white smoke on start up especially if the truck has sat for a day or 2.. What can cause diesel in the coolant.. I did a complete coolant flush this summer and was super **** about getting all the old coolant and gunk out.. Ended up with only clear water coming out the degas
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Dang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.
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How does one clear the computer to prevent the display "Check Coolant Additive" from appearing every time I start the truck. I know that a chemical test is needed to determine the status of the coolant.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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After towing my jeep 4 hours round trip for an offroading day, I noticed a jingling/rattling noise from my grille area. It is less audible from above (hood open), to my surprise. Everything works fine still, including the fan kicking on while pulling a hill as expected.
The only related thing I can think of is that I changed my belt before this trip because the old one squealed when it accelerated the fan and when it held full speed (2000+rpm fan speed). The new gatorback belt did not squeal at all. Could I have hurt the tensioner by pulling the belt too hard to remove it? I used the method of pulling the belt up on the passenger side of the alternator to get it off, and to put the new one on.
I notice the belt tensioner moves a bit at probably 20-30 hz, kinda dancing around. I don't know if it did that before.
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I have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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Crew cab, have easy access to the under rear seat storage area to grab a few quick measurement? I need to know the entire length (side to side) and width at the widest points as well as depth.
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I am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
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I have a 2004 Ex, 6.0 PSD, 4x4. I am experiencing a fuel leak after first startup. Fuel drips off both side of engine area but not coming from the top of the engine, valley is dry. Truck runs great, no hesitation or buffeting as if it was leaking from the intake area. After about 10 min of running leak stops but there is some occasional drips from residue.
This all started after I installed the IPR remote coil cooler and Gen 3 EGR delete. I thought I was smelling an exhaust leak but didn't realize it was actually fuel until just a few days ago when the leak became really bad for about 10 min, leaks about a cup of fuel. I have added a UV due to the tank to see if that will show the leak.
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Started about a month ago with a very infrequent squeaking coming from area of front left wheel. Has started getting more and more frequent to the point of being constant for about 10 minutes today, then just went away for the remaining 15 miles home. Front left hub was definitely warmer than the other one but not too hot to touch or anything. Start of a bearing issue or something to do with the auto locking hubs for the 4wd???
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