Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Crank And Get It Fired Then Shuts Down
Apr 17, 2015
I was driving home and my dash shut off and motor then came back on. Thought to my self hmm not good. Then she did it again. Then thought well that will be hard to find if it only does it two times. I will fix it when it happens more would be easier to find. Then off and coasting down the road. Now on the side of the road. But from what I can till now it seems like my pcm is not getting power. I was able to crank and get it fired then shuts down and will crank but keeps kicking the starter out.
Now it will not crank lift pump not running and injectors not doing there pretty firing sound. I don't have anything to check fuses with me just going to tow it to my shop and look at it tomorrow. But the fuse panel is not label at all so is there print out I can get of that? I'm a diesel tech so I'm not really to worried. Can't pull codes or Talk with my sct programmer so makes me think. ecm no power or fried,
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Got a 2005 F350 with 250,000 miles with "electrical" problems. First thing I did was change batteries, clean body grounds and check most fitting and connections. Looked good at KOEO. Tried to crank and it struggled and fired for about 2 seconds. The IPR % was going nuts. Took off FICM found one bent pin that I don't know what it controls. It is where the screwdriver tip is.
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I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
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My truck is still fairly new with 4,600 miles. I took my family on a camping trip and pulled my trailer which is about 7800 LBS. I made multiple hill climbs and mentioned to my wife how well the truck does on the hills pulling the trailer then a minute later the truck jolts and a "low oil" warning light flashed on the dash. By that time the truck had already shut down and I was coasting to the side of the road. At least I still had the ability to steer until I hit about 2 mph then the truck completely shut down. I could smell burning oil or something similar coming from the engine area.
I knew I had plenty of oil because I had just checked it hours before. I got out and checked it again and was still full. After standing there for several minutes starring at the truck I realized that our big yearly trip up North to the redwoods was over. I tried to start the truck again and it just turned over but wouldn't start. Nothing was smoking or appeared to be leaking. So I started to look for the Ford tow truck number. While looking for the number I tried to start it again and it started! I drove it about 3 minutes down the road to a gas station and called the dealer. They of course said never heard of the issue. Have the truck and trailer towed in to the nearest dealer. Well decided I wasn't going to do it since I was already in the middle of no where and the truck was driving fine. I wasn't going to ruin our big trip over this so I drove it. I figured if something failed at least they could fix it and not tell me they can't duplicate the issue after 3 days. The truck drove fine the rest of the way there.
It happened again coming home. While climbing another hill in the middle of a 2 lane canyon with no shoulder and no cell service. Luckily, I coasted a few hundred yards to the only turn out I saw in a mile stretch. Once, again it showed "Low oil". I let the truck sit for 5 minutes and it started. Drove it another 5 hours home with no issues. I monitored all my gauges during this time none showed over heating. So in summary, truck shows "low oil" warning then shuts down and restarts minutes later. I will be taking it in to the dealer soon but I'm expecting the standard can't duplicate the problem.
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This has happened twice now, both times immediately after towing. I'll start it, begin to accelerate, and it will just putter out. It'll start right back up but it'll putter out again. After 20-30 minutes it'll start (and run). I have an edge programmer and it doesn't turn on when this happens. I get a turbo warning on it that the psi is at like 43/46 even though I'm essentially at idle so it seems to be getting a faulty error thinking the turbo is under too much load.
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04 with 170k miles. truck runs fine. every now and then truck shuts off while driving. turn it off the it restarts every time. Only code that comes up is number 6 injector. The contribution test injector is firing right. FICM voltage is 47.5. has new ipr and hpop also 6k miles ago. Could it be number 6 shorts out or something crazy killing truck? or maybe a crank sensor.
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Yesterday, my truck began to shut off abruptly. Under every condition, from idling to slow running (30mph), and 70 mph, to load and no load. Wait 1 minute and it would start and run for 1 minute 15 seconds. If the batteries were disconnected, the truck would run for 13 minutes before shutting off. Have replaced the fuel filters. Still does it, but runs for between 10 and 20 minutes before shutting off.
Am seeing only two errors codes. P1000, and P0603. I was 40 miles into the Ville Vidal, when this started, and 150 miles from home. To get home, I disconnected the batteries too many times to count, and bled the HFCM numerous times. Am also seeing the moisture in fuel icon on teh dash light up when it quits, but so far as I can tell there is no moisture in the separate.
2003 F450 6.0, automatic. 150K miles.
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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2004 f350 after i shut the truck off something was buzzing. So I popped the hood and found its the injector harness or injectors.Is this normal or something I need to look into?
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I have an 03 f250 that i think is getting air in the fuel line when it sits. It turns over starts and immediately shuts off. Then i have to crank it for a minute or so before it will start. After that it is good all day. Next day it might sputter on start but stays on. More than a day it shuts off immediately and needs cranking for a minute...
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I was driving on highway about 55MPH when I lost power suddenly. I was able to pull off, but did not have power brakes or power steering. Gas tank was near 1/4 gallon on the gauge, but sometimes my gauge is wrong, as I've run out 2x when I should have still had a few gallons in it.
At first I thought CPS, but I didn't have a spare with me to swap. Well, after an hour or so, I cranked it, and it would turn over but not even try to start. I floored the gas pedal and it fired up and I was able to get home.
During the no start issue, there was no oil pressure reading on the gauge and the tach was not moving, even though it was turning strong. There was no white smoke that I could see either.
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Last week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
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While priming the high pressure oil system were using the starter jumper wire but after a while I wanted to watch the insight so I pulled the ficm relay but then it wouldn't crank with the key but before I pulled the ficm relay it would. Now it will start if you turn the key on and use the starter jumper wire but it still won't crank with the key. The truck has a viper alarm system I am thinking that might be causing the issue. How to trouble shoot that? Also I don't know if it is related but it has to crank for too long before it starts.
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Stopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
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Ihave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
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The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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