Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Getting Warm And Puking Coolant
Apr 6, 2017
my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
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Ok so I have a 2005 f250 6.0L. It is fully bulletproofed with ARP head studs. I am running a sct anarchy on street tune. My problem is that sometimes it is "puking" coolant from the degas bottle but only a drop every now and then around the cap; it drives fine, no trouble codes, the engine and trans temp is fine and it's not blowing white smoke it still blows black smoke, and there is no coolant smell just straight diesel. What might be causing it to puke a drop of coolant every now and then?
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I've been MIA for a while. 2006 F250 just hit 83k miles. My coolant must be puking out of the degas tank. White residue all over degas and drivers side engine bay. I had my mechanic buddy pressure test coolant system for several hours and he said there weren't any leaks. He told me to replace the degas cap for now. Didn't solve the problem. Temps have always been fine. Never found drops or a puddle of coolant. Even when the truck has sat overnight for over 8 hours, there is still a bunch of pressure built up when cap is removed.
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I have had this truck for about 8 months now, and it has been the fine only thing it really has is and EGR cooler delete.
It has started puking from the coolant reservoir, and I am not sure why. going to parts store within the next hour or so to get a new one. I have a scan gauge II and always watch my temps very closely. I am normally at 190-205 with never more than a 10-degree delta between EOT, and ECT. I am hoping I will not be taking my truck to Powerstroke specialties tomorrow!
There is pressure in the degas bottle after the truck has been running. also there is pressure after it has been off for a few hours, but much less. I've read this is a bad thing, and also that it is a good thing also i always use ford gold coolant and t6 full syn Rotella with all Motorcraft filters.
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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Well it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone.
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According to the scan gauge... I used to run about 195-200* all the time no matter what.
Now days i find myself up into the 220s and with my boat on ill see 235 climbing a hill.
Good deltas between the water/oil temps.
I wanna get back to my 200's.
I pressure washed out (on low) the front radiator and all the coolers, I didn't get much out and they didn't look dirty.
I am thinking water pump or plugged radiator?
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Say I just purchased an 06 f250 crew cab with the 6.0.
I had her trailered home due to dead batteries. I got her started up and drove about 5 miles until she got up to operating temp.
When I came to a stop and tried to accelerate, she immediately bogged down and started studdering with white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I shut her down and started her up again. She started and idled fine, but as soon as I pressed on the accelerator, she bogged and studdered again. I shut it down again and started it back up. Normal idle, and I shifted her into gear and was able to mozy on idling forward without having her bog, but as soon as I touch the accelerator, she bogs and studders.
I towed it home and the next day (today) she started just fine and I shifted her into drive and moved it forward about 10 feet. Did not touch the accelerator so she didn't big or studder.
1. I am guessing the white smoke was coolant burning through a failed EGR circuit. Do you seasoned members agree?
2. It the a check engine code when studdering. I have yet to check codes so I am still in diagnosis mode.
3. I plan to block off the EGR pipe and throw in a new oil cooler. Anything else immediate I should be considering??
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Left on hunting trip last Thurs. Blew tire on trailer 6 miles from home. Shut off truck. Went to restart, cranks only. No codes. Towed home.
Thought it might be a fuel filter problem. Had just changed oil/filter and fuel filters prior to trip. Checked filters, upper bowl was low. Turned key to on and bowl filled up. Noticed filter wasn't snapped in lid. Also checked lower filter.
Drove it to work this am. Turned off truck and tried to restart to check. NO START-Cranks fine!!!
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I just got this new truck with work and when I started in the mornings and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes like I used to with the 6.2 f250 I had it's still cold in the truck. Need making this thing warm up faster?
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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So after I've been driving for a while and stop at a light or drive thru, I will give it throttle and it seems like it wants to stall. Almost like the turbo isn't spooling and then does and all is good again. Is this a sticking turbo bearing or something else? I am not very familiar with this motor(although I have been doing a ton of searching on here) as I just got it about two weeks ago. I should mention that I am getting the 404 and 405 codes so not sure if that could be involved with the egr?
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My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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Just went on a trip to SC. It was hot as hell - 100F most of the trip. The a/c would blow cool (not exactly cold) for a while and then go luke warm (way better than outside but not particularly refreshing) for a while. So I was reasonably comfortable but definitely not cold.
This would happen about every 15-30min where I felt like the compressor had stopped working for a while. I am thinking the compressor is probably limping along and about to die. Usually I thought these things just up and die though. Clogged accumulator? IDK - nothing has been done to the a/c system since 2009 head gaskets.
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I have recently developed this problem with my 2005 F250 6.0L with 86,000 miles and don't quite understand it. If I drive my truck and then shut it off for a couple minutes, say to go in the store for a few things, when I try to start it back up it won't stay running. It chugs for a couple seconds at real low RPMs (300-400) then just stalls. When I was at the store the first time this happened, I went back in and bought a bottle of starting fluid and gave it a shot, (I know I know, shouldn't do that) and it started right up and got me home.
Thought it was a fluke as the next time I went to start it, it fired right up (sat over night). Drove a couple hours then shut it off, it sat for three or four hours. I went to fire it up to go to a wedding shower down the street about 20 minutes drive and it started fine. Shut it off to go in and pay my "respects" and was out in ten to fifteen minutes. Again Chug, Chug, Chug, stall. Tried to start it with the same results about ten times, then I said fine went back in and ate some free food and drinks for a couple hours and came back out and it fired right up again.
I drove home tonight and while in by drive way at home tonight I verified this again. Turned the truck off and tried to start it back up ten minutes after unloading the truck and same thing, no start. What could be the problem? Only other issue I've noticed was a lack of power on take off from a dead stop then a like a switch the power comes on in about three seconds.
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How can I tell if the turbo is going? it has a whirl noise after warm up. Boost seems a little slow and seem to have more noise coming from the air filter inlet. I put the Auto Enginuity on and have no codes.
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My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
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