I just got this new truck with work and when I started in the mornings and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes like I used to with the 6.2 f250 I had it's still cold in the truck. Need making this thing warm up faster?
View 14 RepliesI'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
I drive an '04 Passat and I've recently noticed that my AC is not functioning properly. It takes forever to get somewhat cold and the air flow seems diminished. I used to get freezing cold within minutes after setting it to an air flow of "1" and putting it at the coldest setting. Now, I can drive home and sweat for the whole 30 minute trip with it set to an air flow setting of "4" at the coldest setting. It's not as bad in the morning because it's much cooler, but it's killing me in the afternoon/evening.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
View 7 RepliesI was hoping to have this resolved, but it seems how I have it parked affects the cold starting of this thing. Had an issue quite a while back as listed in another thread where the truck cranks and fires then immediately dies when cold. Takes at least three times to fire. Once fired it has no problems and will start easily unless it sits for almost a days time...on flat ground.
I replaced some injectors recently since they were bad and I had the truck parked facing downhill slightly when I did that. Since the repairs, the truck would start fine while parked there. Brought my trailer home and have the truck in the street on the flat ground and once again the 3 crank starts begin.
I have attached three Excel spreadsheets of my data from today. All three are the same data log just split up for size and elimination of dead time on the original spreadsheet.
So, I am guessing I have a HPOP problem, which is probably why I was getting intermittent contribution codes when the truck is up to temp. The truck fires totally fine when the oil is hot and up to temp so hot starts are no issue. Could the pump be "stuck" or just not working right when it has sat?
I came off the turnpike the other day stopped at a light and my car, 2006 Hyundai Elantra 175000 miles, started rolling backwards. I put my foot on the gas and there was no movement. Put the car and park and it wouldn't start. I pushed it into a gas station and the attendant (attendant, not mechanic there was no service station) changed the oil and added some coolant. The car then started up fine and I was able to drive a quarter mile to work. When I was driving home I immediately noticed that there was a change in acceleration. It takes forever for the car to speed up... Pedal to the floor and it is lagging greatly. It seems to be going up to 4500 rpms just to reach 40 mphs at a slow pace. Once the car gets up to 60 mph the rpms drop to normal. I haven't gone faster than 60 mph in it since this happened, but it seems to handle fine at that speed. The issue is getting up to that speed. I don't know if it is related, but the air conditioning is very weak since all this happened. I have to turn it off when I'm accelerating now. I've been planning on buying a new car soon, but I want this one to last just a little while longer.
View 7 RepliesI bought a new Honda Accord v6. I drove it off the lot with 40 miles on it. The acceleration was fine when I bought it.
It now has over 500 miles on it, and the acceleration is terrible. When I'm at a stop light and the light turns green, it takes forever to get to 40mph unless I floor it. Honda Civics pass me at every light.
What could be the problem? I'm very concerned.
I just finished installing a new set of injectors, standpipes and the blue spring kit on our 2005 Excursion 6.0. The truck idles and runs much better but now it takes almost two seconds of cranking to start the engine. Cold and hot are the same and the length of time between shut down and start doesn't seem to matter either.
What to check? I am planning to check the ICP tonight when I get home. Could I have air trapped some where in the system? This is my first powerstroke so I don't know if this is a possibility.
I have a 98 GS4 and a 04 RX330 and one major issue I have with the RX, is the poor downshift response when slowing down, to say 5-10 mph and give it gas, the transmission takes FOREVER to realize I want first gear. If I am giving it 50% throttle at 5-10 mph after slowing and needing to get a move on, the throttle seems like it is there, but the transmission takes an eternity to realize "oh, you want first? hang on while I think about it", then it grabs first and LURCHES forward, giving everyone a very uncomfortable jerk.
My GS however, when down to those speeds is always spot on the right gear. Yeah, I know its comparing a GS to a RX, but wouldn't you think that Lexus would figure that one out?
Is the 04 worse than 05 or 06? Can I use an 05 or 06 trans controller and get some improved transmission response?
You can tell by the lurch, the throttle is responding to the driver's throttle pedal input, but the transmission isn't figuring it out till way too late. I don't get the lurch like at slower speeds and higher throttle input, but it sure makes for a poorly driving car.
I see the same problem when taking slower corners, get it down to 10-20 mph for a corner and the transmission won't downshift till AFTER the apex of the corner, despite what throttle pedal is pressed.
I've noticed it takes my truck much longer to start recently. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries, just changed both fuel filters and my truck still takes a good 10 seconds or more of spinning over to fire. Is this normal? I don't remember my truck doing this before, it usually fired right up even in winter. Could this be an injector or glow plug issue?
View 13 RepliesSo the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
I've had my 2013 Prius since new. Basically it feels like my car is over-exhausting itself. When I go to take off, the car jerks like I slammed my pedal to the floor. If I'm on the highway and need to speed up, it sounds like it's reving really high and really long, and when I take my foot off the gas, there's about a 5 second delay before the car actually starts to decelerate. I don't even feel comfortable on the highway when it's acting up because my car kinda just accelerates suddenly and then takes forever to stop even when my foot isn't on the gas anymore.
This problem happened last summer, and when I took it to the dealership it stopped before I could show them. It started getting cold outside not long after so this didn't happen again. Now that it's hot out, my car is doing it again. And it's fine as long as the sun has gone down for the night. I thought it was because my a/c was on, but I can turn it off and it doesn't make a difference on the way the car is driving. I get regular maintenance done, all my filters are clean, and there's nothing I can really think could be wrong.
Well it's that time of year to start using my air conditioning. Went to use it today and it is blowing nothing but warm air. Worked perfectly last time I used it last year. I thought about buying that 134a ac recharge kit from auto zone.
View 14 RepliesAccording to the scan gauge... I used to run about 195-200* all the time no matter what.
Now days i find myself up into the 220s and with my boat on ill see 235 climbing a hill.
Good deltas between the water/oil temps.
I wanna get back to my 200's.
I pressure washed out (on low) the front radiator and all the coolers, I didn't get much out and they didn't look dirty.
I am thinking water pump or plugged radiator?
Say I just purchased an 06 f250 crew cab with the 6.0.
I had her trailered home due to dead batteries. I got her started up and drove about 5 miles until she got up to operating temp.
When I came to a stop and tried to accelerate, she immediately bogged down and started studdering with white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I shut her down and started her up again. She started and idled fine, but as soon as I pressed on the accelerator, she bogged and studdered again. I shut it down again and started it back up. Normal idle, and I shifted her into gear and was able to mozy on idling forward without having her bog, but as soon as I touch the accelerator, she bogs and studders.
I towed it home and the next day (today) she started just fine and I shifted her into drive and moved it forward about 10 feet. Did not touch the accelerator so she didn't big or studder.
1. I am guessing the white smoke was coolant burning through a failed EGR circuit. Do you seasoned members agree?
2. It the a check engine code when studdering. I have yet to check codes so I am still in diagnosis mode.
3. I plan to block off the EGR pipe and throw in a new oil cooler. Anything else immediate I should be considering??
Left on hunting trip last Thurs. Blew tire on trailer 6 miles from home. Shut off truck. Went to restart, cranks only. No codes. Towed home.
Thought it might be a fuel filter problem. Had just changed oil/filter and fuel filters prior to trip. Checked filters, upper bowl was low. Turned key to on and bowl filled up. Noticed filter wasn't snapped in lid. Also checked lower filter.
Drove it to work this am. Turned off truck and tried to restart to check. NO START-Cranks fine!!!
my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
View 14 RepliesSo after I've been driving for a while and stop at a light or drive thru, I will give it throttle and it seems like it wants to stall. Almost like the turbo isn't spooling and then does and all is good again. Is this a sticking turbo bearing or something else? I am not very familiar with this motor(although I have been doing a ton of searching on here) as I just got it about two weeks ago. I should mention that I am getting the 404 and 405 codes so not sure if that could be involved with the egr?
View 9 Replies