Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Hard Starting / Just Bogged Down And Stalled
May 6, 2016
Just got the pickup a month ago and it is kinda hard starting, has no power until it warms up then it has good power. Today I was driving and it just bogged down more and more until it just died. Would not restart. No master with the multi meter but set it on 200 v and tested the Ficm and it was running between 48 and 48.1 v but one time while cranking it dipped down to 37 fir just a split second. When it does run it would puff white smoke and motor would run real rough. Can't get over 1500 Rpms when it is cold like it is starving. Think it is the Ficm?
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
Fuel injectors do this? They are off a 2006 Ford F350 dually with the 6.0 diesel motor! Have replaced all 8 fuel injectors got back drove for 200miles and fuel injectors 4 and 8 were throwing codes changed them out and high pressure oil pump oil coolant deleted egr valve changed the ipr valve feed tubes to the oil rails. replaced the FICM. Yet again drove for 2 days about 200 miles again and shut down (stalled) misfiring hard start. and now fuel injector 4 is throwing codes again. Have not drove it since we got it home from the last stall out which was a few feet from our drive way and we towed it home.
View 5 Replies
Happened last night two blocks away from home. The idle seemed a little rough at start-up but didn't think much of it because the coolant temp was only 132 degrees. Pulled out of the driveway up to the stop at the corner. Totally bogged upon accelerating, went a block, then came the sound of a hubcap rolling down the street along with a check battery light, no power steering, and REALLY sucky brakes.
View 14 Replies
My new to me 2006 F-350 6.0L began having starting issue this week. I'll try to describe it as best I can. Not every time I start it, but about every 3rd or 4th time this happens.
- She will start to crank as if the batteries are weak.
- Very low starter rpm's. If I stop cranking, and immediately try again it will do the same.
- if I wait 30 seconds to a minute, she will go back to a high rpm crank and start up after 2-3 seconds.
I have Auto Ingenuity and a SCT tuner so I can data log PID's.
View 14 Replies
I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
View 14 Replies
Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
View 6 Replies
this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
View 6 Replies
I was towing a trailer about 600 miles truck was running great, pulled in for fuel and truck was running rough, refueled and was on my way then when going down a hill (Idle) it just quit, had to tow remaining 200 miles.
After reading the forums I replaced the ICR (ICR screen was damaged) Truck now starts but its very loud and missing like crazy. and surges if i give it a little gas. codes 0268, 0281, 2284, 2288 I also replaced the ICP.
should I replace the injectors? what causes this?
View 14 Replies
Last night pulled in at rest stop and truck started surging then stalled put dieselkleen in and topped off tank but no luck eventually would not run at all. Had it towed to ford and this morning started right up running fine. Having them change fuel filters. Not sure what to do got to get back to drive?
View 11 Replies
Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
View 6 Replies
The first time it happened, I wasn't monitoring any PIDs as I didn't have my phone with me. Not really sure if I hit a bump or anything, it just stalled. I pulled it off to the side and put it in park and started cranking. Turned over rapidly but wouldn't start. I started freaking out thinking what am I going to do? Shut the truck completely off and waited a couple minutes and then turned the key and it started right up. Drove to my destination and didn't have another issue.
I'm only driving my truck on weekends as I have a company van and I can't park my truck at the condo I'm living at right now. So sometimes it's a few weeks between drives. This has been the story of my truck use since I nought it 3 years ago. In fact I know my turbo is sticking as the most boost it builds is 20-22 psi. I probably have a sticking injector too, as it smokes unburnt fuel until warm.
So the last few weeks when driving, I've noticed that if I hit a big bump, occasionally it dies again. What I've discovered is that it won't start unless I shut the key off entirely. Meaning, if it stalls I put it in neutral as I coast, shut the key off as far as it will go and it will start up. If I just throw it in neutral and try to start, it won't.
Watching my Torque Pro display, I've noticed that it locks up (like normal when I shut the truck off w/o shutting the Torque app off). The display then has read lower voltages than normal for FMP, FLP, FVP (main, logic and vehicle? can't remember ). FMP is normally at 48.5v and the other 2 hover around 13.9v. The last time it stalled, I noticed 9.3v for FLP and FMP was 23.4. I'm not sure if this is what it shut off at or if I panicked and tried starting it w/o shutting the key off entirely. So please don't take those readings as gospel.
I scanned it for codes, but nothing popped up.
View 14 Replies
A friend brought to me this 06 E350 with a 6.0, which stalled on him while driving. The van will crank over good and strong, but won't run. It will how ever fire, and almost run until you let the key back (i would describe it as it does run with assistance from the starter). the FICM has 12V in and 47.5V out. And ICP is around 650 psi till it fires then it raises to 1215 psi. there are no codes either - I'm not familiar with these 6.0l...
View 13 Replies
Have a 2004 6.0 that stalled out while driving. Wouldn't restart. Took readings this morning. ICP was very low (below 100) and IPR was at 85. After a few times of taking readings I could get the truck to start up with an ICP reading over 500 but IPR was still at 85. When it did start up it would almost immediately die. Does this sound like an IPR problem or a oil pressure problem?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 F550 with a 6.0. Truck started running real rough and stalled. I was able to start it back up after a bit but within a few blocks it did the same thing. Was very similar to problems I had with clogged fuel fuel filters before I changed the tank to a plastic one. I pulled the filter and housing on the rail and cleaned and replaced the filter. There was no debris in there. Changed the filter on top of the engine too. Cycled the key 5-6 times. I could hear the pump running but the filter housing on top of the engine did not fill up; all I saw was a very little bubbling and gurgling sound.
I opened the drain on the rail filter housing and a little fuel came out but not as much as it should have. Cap is tight, don't see where I could be sucking air. I'm thinking the pump may be shot? Only other thought I had was maybe I switched the plugs on the housing on the rail but I really don't think I did. There are 2 plugs on the right hand side. Black plug is plugged into the lower position parallel to the ground while the gray plug is in the higher position.
View 12 Replies
I have a 2006 F250 with an International 6.0 turbo diesel. Last Friday I was driving 70mph up hill when my truck slowed down (I wasn't hauling anything) and then stalled, I got it restarted my doing a moving restart. After that it stayed in limp mode and wouldn't go up into 4th gear it just would jump from 1st to 2nd them to 3rd if I was coasting and it would only let me go 40mph at the most, so I got a tester and tested it and the only code it gave me was glow plug 1 & 5 were misfiring so I replaced those.
After I decided to do a test drive I went 800 meters and my tuck still didn't go out of gear one and I couldn't get my truck to go more than 5mph, then it stalled, so after about 30 minutes and 2 other guys tinkering with everything, we got her started and she sounded perfect, so I took off again, same thing happened except I got her going 20 mph but her RPMS stayed under 2,000 and then it decided to sputter and then stalled.
When I went to restart her the ABS, TBC and the transmission light went off, now she won't crank over and she was clicking (starter or dead battery) and now the lights don't go off, the Windows don't work and their is no electricity flowing...... I understand the electricity, she has 2 batteries. (The first one starts i.e. Glow plugs, starter etc, the other just supplies juice to the system, I.E. Lights, fuel pump.. Etc) what is causing this?
View 6 Replies
I have had my excursion for almost 4 years, I love this truck. but lately we have been having issues that we haven't been able to figure out. First it has about 390K miles on it.
I ALWAYS have to plug it in. it could be 90 degrees out and I still have to plug it in. if it Is plugged in normally it will start fine. but then when I go to drive it, it wont have any power until I get like 2 miles down the road. you can push the pedal all the way down and it will go like 10mph. but once it warms up its fine. if I forget to plug it in, I will have to plug it in for about 2 hours and then it will start hard and run really rough for about 10 min. And it will blow greyish smoke out the exhaust.
But now I'm having the issue of keeping it running. it will start and run for 5-15 min and then quit and I have to wait anywhere from 10min - 1 hour to start it again.
View 2 Replies
We're currently RV camping in the Wyoming Wind River Range at 8500 ft and is getting to freezing at night. The past two mornings the truck has been very difficult to start and I got quite a bit of smoke. This morning it took two or three tries but I got it going.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2003 Ford F-350 super duty 6.0. A few weeks ago it starting loosing power, it wouldn't even go up to 15 mph. It now won't even move. There is 0 power. When I press the gas the motor bogs down to a very low idle and wants to die. I also had recent trouble with it starting. It would wind up to a very very low idle and about a minute later it would crank up to full idle. I changed the fuel filters (on top of the engine and under the cab) and also changed the fuel pump under the cab. After that I still have no power when pressing the gas it will still act like it wants to die.
View 14 Replies
Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
View 2 Replies
I wanted to know what happens when the injector hold down bolts are not torqued down to spec, what problems would arise and could it be a reason for somewhat hard starting?
View 1 Replies
Ok so the title isn't completely true. It starts. But when it's cold it takes a couple tries. When I say cold I mean Cali cold. Like low 40s. BUT when I have her facing downhill she will start up every time on the first try. What could be causing this?
View 9 Replies
