Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Oil Cooler Blowing Seals / Bypass Oil Filter Came Loose
Aug 3, 2015
I just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
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I had pretty much ruled out getting a bypass oil filter because I've read multiple times that the HEUI injectors of a 6.0 liter shears the oil regardless of filtration so that you shouldn't run extended oil change intervals even with the extra filtration. I'm wondering though if the cleaner oil would benefit the lifters and injectors within the regular oil change intervals, and if what I read before is correct about the shearing and not running extended oil change intervals. If I could run to say 7500 miles and it was better for the lifters and injectors than not running a bypass and changing oil at 5000 miles, then I might say it would justify it. I hear more and more about lifters in the 6.0 and want to everything I can to keep them operable.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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2012 F250 Superduty Lariat, 6.7 L.... While driving the cold air filter came loose and threw a CEL, code 2074. Corrected that issue, but CEL came back. Codes of 2074 and 2074pd. Cleaned both MAP and MAF and codes came back. Replaced both MAP and MAF and codes came back after about 20 miles. What are the next steps?
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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So my outer axle seal went out on the passenger side again after only 4,000 miles. What gives!? I can't figure out why its burning up. My hubs seem to be working correctly. I've only used the 4wd a hand full of times since I replaced it. Any thoughts?
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Opinions of the bypass filtration? I've heard some opinions that since the HUEI injectors shear the oil so badly that there is no benefit to the bypass filtration since you can't run extended intervals. I asked a reputable shop that pretty much all drive and maintain 6.0's and build parts for them, and they said it reduces the chances of stiction, improves lifter lubrication and thus lifespan, and can actually increase the intervals. Does that sound legit and justify the kit if I plan to own it until it dies?
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I have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
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I have a 2005 ford Excursion 6.0 with an EGR delete, bulletproofed beauty. I bought it about 8months ago and It ran great. I soon bought a 270amp DCpower alternator for it after the batteries died and then replaced the batteries. I eventually developed a no start when hot issue and decided to tear into it my self with everything I've learned on FTE! I love this site and most of you are like legends to me.... so I thought, how hard could this be?
So I bought that fancy icp pressure adapter for testing the pressure from the passenger side valve cover then found one that test pressure at the IPR port. So I went and bought that too 6 0L Powerstroke Specialist's Tool Kit Air Test Tool Ball Tube IPR Sockets | eBay and it lead me to multiple leaks on both sides of the oil rail.
I also bought the CTS2 insight and started monitoring things and realized I had more problems than I thought. I'm still learning how/what to look for and monitor. Anyhow, My EOT and ECT would sometimes be 30-40 Deg. apart. So knew I'd have to replace the oil cooler.
So here I am, I bought ALL ford OEM parts which were -- Oil cooler/standpipes/dummy plugs/ STC update/updated oil drain tubes/Coolant filter/bluespring kit/bango bolts/new degas bottle cap.
I put EVERYTHING in and was careful as can be. I located my leaks and it turned out to be the injector seals on #1 #2 and #5 injectors. The one on the top of the inside of the injectors. So then I bought all new ALIANT injector seal kits (all 8) might as well do them all while I'm in there. And put it back together. Still friggin leaked at injector 1 and 2. So I polished all the nipple cups and bought 8 new ALIANT seals for cups on the rail...STILL LEAKED (swear word).
After putting everything back together and taking it apart 6-7 times...I tried sticking the air directly into the injectors (#1,#2) using a rubber nipple and the injector spill ports were pissing out air. The rest of the injectors ports didn't leak at all except for #3 which was barely a leak.
So after some reading about this problem, I read that this "spill port" leak was normal and could be that the spools were probably closed so it was nothing to worry about. Or that's what I understood.
I put everything back together one more time and got ready for some "long cranking". I should mention I filled the oil valley from the filter housing (about a half a gallon) and cranked for 20sec...Waited 2 mins...cranked 20 sec...waited 2 mins.......continuously untill batteries went dead...then I recharged them and repeated...and recharged them and repeated...I knew It would take a long time but holy cow.
I used the CTS2 to watch my icp volts and it was 0.2 KOEO and while cranking. It didnt change. So I unplugged it. Now I have 1400psi. I tried using my other F350 ICP sensor and same thing. So Its not the sensor. Maybe the harness? So I unplugged the fcim and replugged it back in. Still wont start. I'm at my wits end with this and my wife is hating me for "trying to save money" and blocking the driveway for the last 9 days...
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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I've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
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This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
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My 2011 has 62k miles and has been throwing P0401 codes, which results in losing power. I assume the EGR cooler is clogged. So I went to the dealership to see if it's covered, and was told there's no warranty coverage.
I would rather blockoff the EGR cooler than repair it. I would also like the extra performance from a tuner like the MiniMaxx. I do prefer the stock exhaust and not real excited about the drone/smell that comes with deleted DPF.
Will I have issues if it's tuned with the EGR blocked off, and stock exhaust? Or am I better off doing a full delete at this point?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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