I'm in the process of replacing my HPOP lines and fittings and after I got everything removed and started cleaning the threads before re-assembly I noticed this green wire (located above the fuel filter assembly) that apparently I pulled out of its socket.
What is it for? Can I just push it back in its sleeve right below the red wire??
I'm checking my fuel filter regular (draining, examining.....basically OCD **** stuff) and I'm spilling diesel around the bowl. I've learned to put a rag around it now, but what's best way of cleaning diesel around that area? I'm tired of my wife complaining about smell. Simple green, purple power, etc???? Also, tell me what to watch out for.
View 14 Repliesjust bought this truck and it has a brittle cap and i cant get the cap to turn, its been on there awhile . 99 f250, anyway might have to destroy this cap to be able to remove it. Doing this without damaging the filter housing?
View 14 RepliesMy fuel filter lid o-ring keeps blowing out upon hot start, this has happened 4 times now once last week, I replaced filter and all was ok until Thursday it happens again I change the filter allis fine! Now today!!!!! TWICE I have to install new filters because the o-rings are blowing outside the bowl lid! I'm using the same BALDWIN PF7698 filters I've used for years, my reg. Is set at 75psi and holds steady! No spikes but I haven't been able to watch it when the o-ring blows out! Injectors and o-rings are new (<1000miles) no problems during operation at all!
View 14 RepliesShut my truck off for about 15 minutes and wouldn't start back up. Installed new fuel filter. And gonna try changing cps. Torque says Rpm 180
Ipw. Bouncing between 600 - 3000 Hpop. 250 while cranking Voltage 10.9 while cranking. Ipr starts about 15% and slowly climbs to about 88%
Fuel pressure about 65%
Tried unplugging cps. Gonna check oil now though I check it every time I fill up and it never uses any.
I am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
I have a 2001 f250 7.3l 4x4 and the fuel filter housing is leaking real bad from either the back or under it. I need to get info on parts that i would need as well.
[URL]....
I just changed the drain valve on the fuel filter bowl. All went well and no more leak, but now I am getting an "emission system" warning light.
After I replaced the valve, I filled the fuel bowl with diesel fuel. Was there any other priming that needed to be done (if any)? What the emission system warning light may mean?
2002 F250 7.3L 4x4.
So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
Does a 2011 Avalon have a fuel filter and if it does where is it located? How often should it be changed?
View 2 RepliesIt's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
View 3 Replies2001, F250, 4x4, 432,000 miles...
Seems this truck eats up bearing assemblies. Its like every 2-3 years, I'm having to replace one side or the other. And we talking like 30-40,000 miles....
BTW.... although I'm not out doing much 4x4 driving, this truck does do a lot of dirt roads, probably over 50%...
I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 XLT with cloth seats. In 2003 I upgraded those seats to power seats.
- When I upgraded to power seats I did not run a new power wire. Since my 2001 was at least fused for power and heated seats I located the Power seat 30amp power wire.
- That wire is located on engine compartment fuse #15 (Circuit 5298 as I recall) and Dark Green. It comes through the firewall and runs down the drivers side kick panel along the floor and then intersects with the power and ground seat belt wires that ran under the seat.
- The ground wire was coiled and attached to a ground stud behind the drivers side kick panel.
About a month ago I had a mouse get in and chew my seat wiring to shreds. I built my own harness and am good to go there, however since I had these seats all apart I decided to replace the foam and add HEAT.
So that brings me to the specific question. In the engine compartment fuse box, there is a 30amp positive wire for Heated seats. My schematic says it is a 14 gauge wire RD/BK on circuit 1153.
Where in the heck is this wire? I have literally tore the dash apart looking for this wire.
- I have verified the following with my fluke continuity tester.
- It is not part of the four customer access wires that drop on the right side of the interior fuse panel.
- It is not part of the tow wire bundle.
- I have checked the bundle that the Dark Green Power seat wire is in and there are no RD/BK wires in that bundle. I also poked the other 2 14 gauge (Yellow/Blue) wires in that bundle and verified they are not them.
-I have checked the three wire bundles behind the passenger side glove box and was unable to locate.
- I have verified it is not stored behind the compartment below the cigarette lighter.
I am looking for info which wire I am talking about and knows where Ford stored them when not used by having the XLT Trim with cloth seats. Yes I am aware that I can run an additional wire with a 30 amp fuse to the batter, but I would prefer to use the system and fuse that was designed for this.
I'm getting ready to put in my new double din and it said to hook the wire for the camera up to the reverse light wire. Which one this is on the harness coming out of the column?
View 14 RepliesAs part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
View 14 Replies2012 F250 Superduty Lariat, 6.7 L.... While driving the cold air filter came loose and threw a CEL, code 2074. Corrected that issue, but CEL came back. Codes of 2074 and 2074pd. Cleaned both MAP and MAF and codes came back. Replaced both MAP and MAF and codes came back after about 20 miles. What are the next steps?
View 1 RepliesI just replaced my factory oil cooler again, and my bypass oil filter came loose spraying 8 quarts of oil all over under the hood.
This is the second time it has done this. Both times my wife was driving so i don't know how it was running prior to this.
Now i think my oil cooler seal to the block is blown again! Just like the last time my bypass oil filter came loose.
Could this be a symptom of another problem?
I just noticed a wire burned in half on the front side of the intercooler plenum. See picture below,
Here is the left side showing the green wire stub going into the wiring harness on the front side of the intercooler plenum,
And this is the right side showing the wire going into the air intake duct between the turbo and the air filter,
I don't think it's been in this condition very long.
I've had the car diagnosed on a VAS 5051. Everything is fine, and the car should start (it does on easy-start). However, it doesn't start. I've disconnected the pipes from the fuel filter assembly and fuel is coming to the filter but nothing is returning. What should I diagnose first, Is something blocked, or could it be to do with the injectors?
View 1 Replies