Lately my truck has been smoking at random, it's not very often & only seems to happen while stopped with transmission still in gear (traffic light, etc). And at this time, I believe its a faulty fuel injector (still originals) although not confirmed.
2006 w/a 6.0 Diesel (130,000 miles) no CEL
Random Smoke 6.0 Diesel - YouTube....
So the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
It clunks real bad at random times. Whether I have had the e-brake on or not (sometimes even with it on, so I have not put any load on the locking mechanism in the tranny).
Its a 2014... Does not matter if its inclined ground or flat.
My 08 F350 V10 it replaces never once clunked.
Replaced stock turbo on my 04 f350 zf6 with a newer stock turbo from an 05 6.0 excursion with a wicked wheel. Truck never smoked before ever for any reason. Now with the new turbo the truck puffs out white and blue smoke when turbo is spooling up in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear but once turbo is spoiled up no smoke at all. 4th and 5th no smoke at all. What could be my issue? Truck runs great no sputtering or missing or anything. I rebuilt injectors about two months ago so those are good.
View 2 Replies2005 F250 4X4 6.0 .. Why my truck just stopped going when put in gear and the TOW/HAUL light just kept coming on, without pushing it 2 days prior? Now it will not go anywhere, starts great, gas pedal works because RPM's go up when pushing! Just will not go when put in drive or reverse! What else I can do? I replaced cylinoid B in the transmission, speed sensor, and brake switch.
View 14 RepliesWell, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
View 14 RepliesI have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
View 14 RepliesEverything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
Transmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
View 4 RepliesTook my 2011 F250 in to the dealer where I purchased it concerning intermittent misses on gear changes. The dealer had no history or knowledge of problems with shift flares. I was told they would check it out. Bottom line, their checking it out yielded no results, no action, and no "engagement", pun intended, to resolve a serious concern. How did others resolve the issue when it came up?
View 14 RepliesWell I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
I currently have a 2006 F-250 6.0 with 187,XXX.
My problem that i am having is that the transmission recently within a couple weeks started acting weird about the same time 3 of my fuel injectors started failing. When i start up the truck and put it into drive it takes about 3-5 seconds to shift. Once it's in drive it runs pretty well but it will start shifting out of normal when i go to accelerate. Also when i go to slow down sometime the transmission shifts hard to a lower gear. I also have a video of the sound that it had started to make since its hard to describe.
Here are attached videos and photos. I want to hopefully fix the problems myself so i can learn more about my truck. I am going to handle the fuel injectors here soon since 2 are failing and ones about to these have been causing the truck to shudder at around 47-53 mph but after that its fine.
The transmission is stocked and never been altered, i do admit for 3-4 years I have changed the fluids or filters.
The truck is bullet proofed, sct tuner, upgraded turbo from stock, 4" exhaust, head studs and new everything when the engine was rebuilt and bulletproofed.
I plan on going to ford tmw to have them figure out the problem and hopefully its just solenoids so i can fix it myself. I have a link posted also where you can hear the noise it has been making when in R P and when shifting going down the road and it is a automatic.
YouTube.....
I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
2007 6.0 6 speed, 187,000 miles. The other day started truck, had been running about 20 minutes before. Started fine, go to drive, chugging white smoke, smelled like unburnt diesel, baby truck home, seemed to run ok at low rpm, truck warmed up and ran fine. But I also noticed turbo boost was acting funny. Truck ran fine next few days. Then this morning, started cold fine, started to drive it and same chugging white smoke, it quit by the time j got to the end of my driveway, but drove to work, it quit smoking, ran pretty smooth, but will not build any boost. Truck is bone stock except for exhaust, it's straight piped. Ok. So this eve I borrowed my dads edge cts, here's all the engine codes:
P0069
P0269
P0299
P2262
P2269
The last one is water in fuel, since it started this crap I did notice it was right after it came on in the dash. I'm trying to figure out where to start....
On another note. VGT duty shows 85% at idle ?
Ficm voltage is constant 48 volts
Newer batteries
no change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
View 14 RepliesI would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
I have a 2016 f350 super duty with 6.7L engine, at random times engine sounds like it has a rod knock, give more fuel, it goes away, driving at 40 to 55 mph the whole vehicle shakes all at different times and different days vehicle has under 6500 miles want to now anything before going back to dealer..
View 6 RepliesMy co-worker has an 06 F250 SC 4x4 and is getting a P0713 code. 2006 Ford F250 6.0L Diesel ... Tow/haul light comes on flashing at random times. Truck is reading a P0713 code which is the TFT Sensor Failure/Replacement
Ford dealership is telling me that I also have to pull the valve body and install the new upgraded wiring harness (3-3.5 hours labor) but a thread on this forum stated I just needed to replace the sensor in the tranny pan and reconnect the wire harness. Do I need to upgrade the wiring harness?
2003 f350 6.0 psd
Long story short, 7 out of 10 times when I turn on my headlights (while driving) my ABS light will flash, all gauges will drop to zero then instantly resume their place, lights are on and everything seems to be normal..
Recently it seems that when ever what I just explained above happens, and I press the brake pedal shortly after the truck pulls to the right. Harder I press the brakes the harder it pulls the truck off the road. Pretty scary stuff..
Brakes look good. Although I haven't checked the fluid or for any real notable leaks.