Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 6R140 Transmission - Intermittent Misses On Gear Changes
Feb 22, 2014
Took my 2011 F250 in to the dealer where I purchased it concerning intermittent misses on gear changes. The dealer had no history or knowledge of problems with shift flares. I was told they would check it out. Bottom line, their checking it out yielded no results, no action, and no "engagement", pun intended, to resolve a serious concern. How did others resolve the issue when it came up?
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I was reading yesterday where someone was wishing for a tuner that would allow you to skip 1st gear. I realized today that you can do that in Manual mode and was even surprised to find out that it would even let you start in 3rd. Driving around without a load, 1st gear does seem a bit of a nuisance. You can't really get on the throttle until you get 2nd! Playing around with it a bit, starting in 2nd, and even 3rd around town was really nice and I didn't miss the shifts. The other thing I noticed that when in manual, it will down shift based on speed, but not throttle position, so if you're going fast enough, it will maintain that gear without downshifting as you apply more throttle. I'm assuming that Ford put some thought into this and won't let you shift in a manner that will cause damage. It would be nice, however, if it would bypass 1st if not in Tow/Haul mode and not make you do the manual shift thing.
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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'03 6.0 Powerstroke. Rough idle AFTER it warms up. Runs fine cold. It seems to studder and miss at mid range acceleration. Egr deleted and new oil cooler installed. New lift pump. Replaced ICP sensor. Have 48.5 volts at the FICM. Replaced the fuel pressure spring to the blue one. All new filters. Does not smoke. Does not throw codes. I need to fix this truck one last time. It has a date with the bottem of a very deep lake! It has been nothing but a pos since it hit the ripe old age of 25k miles!
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For those of you tuned and deleted......intermittent transmission shifting stutter is gone now? Mine sure is. Never once since the mods have I had that annoying stutter when the truck is cold and I'm easy on throttle between 2nd and 3rd gears. What a relief it is to have it shift NORMAL ALL THE TIME!!! Stutter no more after H&S Tune and Delete, for about two months now.
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Well, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
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When the truck shifts into 5th gear i instantly feel a constant vibration and noise until it shifts to 6th gear. This happens nearly every time while driving at 40mph. Rpm range 1200 - 2000. I bought the truck new on June 30th and noticed the problem on my way to work on Monday July 2nd. Took it to the dealer on July 5th and the tech said it was the torque converter slipping. I drove it home because they didn't have time to work on it. Took it back on July 12th and the dealer has had it since (currently 30 days) They originally told me it was not the engine or transmission and it was an exhaust problem. Last week they said it was the motor mounts and said they would be done.
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So, after sitting for about 4 weeks, I go to start my 2011 F350, 16,000 miles, with a 6.7. Barely runs, "misses", fuel pouring from the underside of the motor, all over the ground. I figure out pretty quickly, #8 fuel injector was blown out of its hole. Clamp is busted.
Two days later (this morning), dealer calls and says we have all the parts we need to fix your truck, except the clamp. Guy says no ETA on the clamp from Ford. Truck will just sit, for an indefinite period of time. Asked him what they were going to do. He said, wait for the part to show up.
Putting aside the oddity of the clamp breaking, how is it that Ford doesn't have the part and doesn't know when it will? Is this a Ford problem or a lazy dealer? This really won't do. Its racing season and I need my truck!
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I have a 2006 F350. It started running rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I did an injector buzz test and found no codes. Cylinder contribution check showed cylinder one was not functioning. I replaced number one injector, cleaned injector cup installed new injector and copper washer. Engine runs the same. If it was a wiring harness issue should that have shown up in the buzz test?
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Lately my truck has been smoking at random, it's not very often & only seems to happen while stopped with transmission still in gear (traffic light, etc). And at this time, I believe its a faulty fuel injector (still originals) although not confirmed.
2006 w/a 6.0 Diesel (130,000 miles) no CEL
Random Smoke 6.0 Diesel - YouTube....
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I have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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Transmission was not shifting out of second gear set a code stuck solenoid cleared code seems to be working now....
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Well I've been towing for almost 150,000 miles with a 2012 6.7 Lariat 4 wheel drive. Things have been going pretty well with the truck. I noticed some sluggish and indecisive type shifts early on but now I'm worried. I depend on this truck for pulling a horse trailer all over the country and Canada. Just recently I've been getting a hard shift or a thump or a clunk when shifting up or down in to second gear. I'm at about 152,000 miles and did a hot flush with LV ATF at about 148,000 miles. Should I worry or keep running?
I have a 97' PSD I'm thinking of giving a nice paint job and a flat bed but am reluctant to do so due to financial concerns and the fact that some folks may not want to see me pull up in an old truck no matter how nice it looks. My tranny temps have been stating under 200F and I really keep an eye on the temps when running up and down the hills while towing. The trailer is a 35' Gooseneck with a max GVRW or 14,000 pounds. Should I wait for the tranny to grenade and then drop in a built tranny and if so who's building these tranny's stronger than stock? Long time no see but this site has always been my go to for all my Ford truck questions, upgrades, etc.
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I currently have a 2006 F-250 6.0 with 187,XXX.
My problem that i am having is that the transmission recently within a couple weeks started acting weird about the same time 3 of my fuel injectors started failing. When i start up the truck and put it into drive it takes about 3-5 seconds to shift. Once it's in drive it runs pretty well but it will start shifting out of normal when i go to accelerate. Also when i go to slow down sometime the transmission shifts hard to a lower gear. I also have a video of the sound that it had started to make since its hard to describe.
Here are attached videos and photos. I want to hopefully fix the problems myself so i can learn more about my truck. I am going to handle the fuel injectors here soon since 2 are failing and ones about to these have been causing the truck to shudder at around 47-53 mph but after that its fine.
The transmission is stocked and never been altered, i do admit for 3-4 years I have changed the fluids or filters.
The truck is bullet proofed, sct tuner, upgraded turbo from stock, 4" exhaust, head studs and new everything when the engine was rebuilt and bulletproofed.
I plan on going to ford tmw to have them figure out the problem and hopefully its just solenoids so i can fix it myself. I have a link posted also where you can hear the noise it has been making when in R P and when shifting going down the road and it is a automatic.
YouTube.....
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
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Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
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I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
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I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
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Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
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