I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
View 9 RepliesWhat are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
View 7 RepliesCranking without fuel is probably never a great idea - but it happens - maybe after repair or when someone runs out of fuel, etc....
Is it any harder (worse than usual) on these Bosch fuel pumps than any other vehicle? I realize that the closer tolerances and the very high pressure might make things a little more fragile in a "no fuel" situation...
This question came from a discussion that I was in (maybe beer was involved) a couple of days ago... Of course we had 4 different opinions... I would like to know the facts - if someone is more qualified then us "redneck mechanics"
Scangauge reads icp ok. Ipr ok. Fmp voltage is all over the place from 42 down to 2. Flp is also all over the place from 11 down to 2 volts. And no Sync. Load checked batteries well. Voltage is 11.5 down to 10.5 when cranking. Fuel good. No pre warning signs. Parked running good. I have read tones of forums but none with 3 issues. Could it be the relay?? Would a bad ficm show no sync on cranking?? Why is my flp voltage so up and down.
View 14 RepliesFinally got everything buttoned up, and truck was going for it's first drive today. Started cranking, and it just barely tries to start, and then nothing until I cycle the key again. Doesn't even give me a full Vroom, Just like a Vro- and then back to cranking.
I've had it started and running a few times, so something has changed. And to add to the fun, something between my tablet, my torque pro app, and my dongle isn't playing nice. Tablet just won't see the dongle. So I get to figure that out too.
I have a 2006 f250 superduty 6.0. The truck ran fine a week ago and than died as I was going to take it for a drive. I figured out that the fuel pump (air dog system) was not working. I fixed that and primed the pump. The truck still won't start. When it first happened the truck would crank but not start. Now all I hear is the starter but no cranking. Both filters could be replaced. The bowl to the upper is dry when I take the cap off. However fills up when you turn the key on. I'm not sure what else to try and I need to get this truck started.
View 3 RepliesOK so here is what is going on in my world. I have an '03 F-250 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4, with an Edge programmer and 4" MBRP exhaust. About 3 years and only 20,000 miles ago I changed out the HPOP, O-rings on the rails, all new O-rings on the injectors, blue spring in the fuel pump, IPR valve, EGR valve and a number of other new seals in my high pressure system. The truck has run great since then. I cleaned out my turbo about a year ago and it has been like new.
Now for the fun part. About a month ago it has been cranking a little longer when hot than it should, but not too bad. About 2 weeks ago even though it starts fine in the morning, it is just completely gutless out of the driveway until about a block away the turbo spools up strong and it runs great. It has run perfectly during this time once it is warmed up a little bit. Saturday it left me stranded in a parking lot cranking with no start. It had been sitting for about 2 hours.
I got towed home and plugged in my SGII and it shows my ICP at 345 when cranking hot. Once cold it starts up and runs great, but won't start again once hot. I changed out my IPR valve with a used one that I had on the shelf that I took out when I did my HPOP. No change. The FICM has 47 volt while cranking and 49 when just ign is on. Batteries are very strong and it has a new starter. When cranking the low oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Not sure where to start and I am frustrated. I have had this truck for 9 years and it is in great shape. It only has 138,000 miles.
Some information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover
Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..
Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles
Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.
I found the following codes:
P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528
I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.
Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.
So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?
I have a 03 f250 6.0 . I rebuilt the whole top end. When i finished it 15 months later due to personal issues I started it. It ran for about 4 hours i turned it off the next day i went to start it again and didn't kick over so i figured it was batteries they might of died (it was about 3 degrees out) so i went to get new batteries put them in and it started using diesel 911 and starter fluided i let it run for awhile. I went back the next day to start it and it did t turn over it just kept cranking and started to die out so i stopped trying. Now a week later I am at it again. Could it be not starting because of bad fuel trying to get through the system or could it be something else?
View 3 Replies2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
View 14 RepliesI never tested a ficm before and just want to make sure before getting it repaired. I had 48.5 volts with the key on and while cranking went to 49.6 volts. While holding it on for a second time it went to 30 volts and jumping around while cranking and then to 49.5 and the truck started and it was at 48.5. One other thing is my injectors are chattering when the key is on but not all the time. (not sure if this is normal). If the ficm is bad and someone recommend a ficm repair shop. This truck is non stop with repairs I need to start working on it myself.
View 6 RepliesSo about a week and a half ago I went to crank my 03 6.0 truck up after having driven it to the mountains (about a 5hour round trip) several days ago. It was a little slower than usual but nothing too alarming, got to work and worked a full day, came back to my truck and it took even longer to crank. Drove to my girlfriends house to pick her up, only had it shut off for like 2 minutes hot and when I went to crank it it took two tries. From then on it was only bad at cranking when hot but now it takes 5-8 tries to crank whether it's hot or cold.
I took it to my buddy who owns a diesel mechanic shop and we hooked it up to his computer, everything checked out just fine, oil pressure was good, so was all injectors and ficm voltage, no red flags at all. So I went ahead and changed the icp, nothing, then he told me to change my aftermarket oil filter to motorcraft oil filter, still nothing, I also changed my oil filter drain valve and nothing.
When I'm attempting to crank the truck, after I hold the key attempting to crank it for maybe 8 seconds my oil pressure gauge jumps to normal. I have an ipr on the way to my house and I'm gonna try that as well. Also when the truck gets running it runs just as it ever has, no weird sputtering or stalling or cutting off. But when it does finally crank it puffs out a little black smoke.
Had Just replaced glow plugs and batteries along with a new set of tires. Truck had been running fine for the three days that is was. Went out the next morning and went to start and "POP" a large noise came from under the hood. I have yet to discover where this noise particularly came from or what it may have been that caused it. But ever since the POP it will not turnover what so ever. Key on every thing is normal all power just when go to turn key over it makes a faint click. You can feel the click in the relays on your hand when you try to turnover. But nothing. I am absolutely clueless.
View 14 RepliesHow long does it take to fire up the engine?Just got mine running today and I'm new to 6.0. It took about 4 seconds the first time, and considering this was a used engine I figured that was very fast to fire up. However, subsequent starts which I had expected to be less cranking are also taking about 3-4 seconds. I haven't had any experience with an oil actuated injection so maybe this is typical for the design?
View 14 RepliesMy 6.0 2005 Excursion has been running great lately except for an issue starting last week. I go to leave work and it cranks over-and keeps cranking over. I fire up the torque pro app and see that I have no FICM sync. It just reads 0. I pop the hood and fumble around the FICM connectors. Try cranking again and it cranks and cranks and finally kicks in. I have not had this happen since but am paranoid now that this will occur again in the worst possible place and listen to everyone in the family tell me to get rid of my prize and get a newer truck. I monitor quite a few things on the Torque pro app but could others chime in what I should be monitoring in the meantime to try and solve this issue.
View 4 RepliesFrom what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
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Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
View 4 RepliesSo my truck sit for 7 months and went to start and it was cranking fine but all the sudden backlashes a little and now just clicks. I started pulling the glow plugs and have all out except 5 and 7 but still seems stuck I'm trying to pull those. No oil in de gas bottle and also was running a little rough when started but ran good when warmed up. Or am I doing the right thing by pulling the glow plugs before any other diagnosis
View 10 RepliesThis morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
View 9 RepliesDang, won't start again. My auction truck needed batteries, so I put mine in it and bought new ones for my work truck. Couple of days later, didn't start. Checked SG and I wasn't getting enough RPM. Jumped it and it fired right up. Replaced one of the new batteries and it's started fine the last few times, until just now, in the parking lot of the tire store.
The RPMs were weak - they'd go over 160 but then fall back to the 140s. I walked home and got my auction truck, jumped it, and it still doesn't start. Just spins. RPMs still fall back to the 140s after a few seconds of cranking, but they got as high as 220 so I don't think that is the problem. Fuel pump runs, the upper bowl is full, no bubbles. Oil pressure registers on the dash after a few seconds of cranking.
The last time, I wiggled some fuses and it started. Not this time. FICM at 48, ICP around 700 while cranking. Volts and IPV are good. FPW is 0, but I think that's right, until it cranks. Same with Sync - at 0 while cranking - does it ever go to 1 without starting?
It acts like it has in the past - cranking just fine but no start. And in the past, when it finally starts, it acts like nothing was ever wrong. I checked my IPR screen about a month ago after replacing it about 6 months ago when it didn't start. What am I missing? I'll go read some threads for clues.