From what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
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Did the swap and all works good except the boost is often at 3psI then sometimes it works good. Used the 03 harness. So did I need to change a wire or sensor or use 03 pcm?? I was told maf sensor might cause issues but no codes for it.
View 10 RepliesCurious how it went and what additional hardware was needed.
View 8 RepliesNeed to know if you can mount a 04+ turbo on a 03 engine without changing the intake with the cross in the back ? Or does the intake have to be changed. If the intake does need to be changed will the egr need to be change as well ?
View 4 RepliesBought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
This may sound petty, but I would like to have the radio controls on the left side of the steering wheel of my 2012, instead of the cruise control. I guess the main question is how the wire harness is set up. Do the wiring can be re-routed to accommodate the switch?
Also, I want to smooth out the ride a tad so as to lessen the amount of griping from from the passenger seat. What is acceptable in lowering the tire pressure to allow a better ride without compromising tire wear? The factory specs are 65 psi. My truck is a 2012 fx4 Lariat with the 6.7
I traded from a 2011 F-250 XLT recently with premium package to a 2015 F-350 Lariat, but the truck we found didn't come with a couple of the features that I loved in my last truck. I live in western Nebraska, and travel very regularly to western North Dakota and central Illinois for my business. The truck has 5200 miles (had the truck for 1 month ), but everything is still in great condition and would hope for the same in return.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 2011 F-450 with 205,000 Miles on it with a blow engine. Local shop installed a Ford NEW complete engine. Unfortunately we had Code P24A5 EGR Cooler Bypass Control Stuck after the swap. Truck drives fine just has CEL on. Goes to FORD and they test Vacuum from engine, on line, and on compents say all is good. Replace Vacuum switch and Control and neither fix it. Ford stumped and quits responding. So i go get my truck back since they wont respond and had it over 2 weeks.
I get it back and now it has Codes P04DA Closed Loop EGR AT Limit - Flow to high and P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor in Range but Lower than expected. I also have a P21BO for the reductant level sensor "C" Circuit High.
Since picking it up from Ford, Truck has almost no throttle until oil temperature warms up. I clear codes, truck runs good after warming up and no CEL comes on. Drove it for over an hour. Next key cycle, and CEL is on with all the above codes. Could something be hooked up wrong? Where to start?
I've been trying to figure out a slow start condition on my 06 F350. What should the starter rpms be when cranking? My scanguage reads 180. Does this sound low? Batteries are new.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 6.0 liter crew cab. It's all stock minus the FICM and bullet proof I did a few years ago when I purchased the truck. truck runs amazing with 136K miles on her, but i rarely drive the truck and she's been sitting. SO, I went out to start her up because it's been in the low teens and I wanted to keep the battery up to par. When I had turned the ignition key on to start the truck (after I cycled the glow plugs), I could hear the starter spin but instead of turning the truck over, it made a grinding noise followed by a spin type sound which I assume is the drive gear of the starter not engaging. I can get her to start but it takes multiple attempts.
Once she's warmed up, it seems to stop grinding when i try and start it which makes me think it's more of a resistance issue, possibly a relay. BTW, where is the starter relay on our trucks? I am wondering if the cold has something to do with the proper power and amps to the starter via the relay causing the starter not getting enough power to the starter. Anyway, I'm hoping there is a way to diagnose this through my torque program by looking at amps but not sure which parameters to look at on torque android.....I'm hoping it's a relay problem instead of a starter problem. I really dont want to replace a starter with a bum shoulder.......in the cold to top it off
With -37C and -50C with windchill today, I tried starting my truck after being plugged in all night, and it was a no-go. Sounded like the starter turned over but didnt engage. On another note, what is with the glow plug light? mine lights up for a few seconds, maybe, then nothing. Today was the first time it ever stayed on for 5 seconds, and that was only after i tried cranking it over twice. First two times it didnt stay on.
I think my block is still maybe too cold,maybe dead batteries too, and yes the block heater had power made sure to check that, I notice my passenger side battery has some corrosion ontop (1000watt amp hooked into drivers side) so maybe I am needing better batteries.
Usually fires right up, haven't noticed a problem lately either starting. Gonna let it warm up some more, and I put a charger on the truck too, gonna go check the battery voltages and see what it says. This is the coldest yet I have tried to start the truck.
My 6.0 keeps trying starts on a regular bases. I was told it was a week injector by mechanic so we replaced that one and bought a new starter. Within 2 days it had fried that one also. We did check batteries and they tested good even put them in another dismal and drive them for a week. Mechanic told us we need to put another injector in it. But I don't see how a injector can fry the starter.
View 12 Replies2003, 6.0,128K, original starter, I was towing a heavy trailer out of state, shut engine off at a gas station 2 miles from my destination. Truck started back up as normal. Continued on my way towing uphill. I backed in the driveway and shut it off for a half hour while unloading the trailer. Went back out, all lights came on with ignition, but no crank. I don't hear a click like a solenoid. I checked fuses, I got hung up on checking what looked like a solenoid on the passenger fender. Its a big relay, but now I;m thinking its for something else. I had to leave the truck out of state and was able to get a ride back. I won't be back there for two weeks. Should I bring a new starter? A 6.4 starter?
View 2 RepliesI have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
My new to me 2006 F-350 6.0L began having starting issue this week. I'll try to describe it as best I can. Not every time I start it, but about every 3rd or 4th time this happens.
- She will start to crank as if the batteries are weak.
- Very low starter rpm's. If I stop cranking, and immediately try again it will do the same.
- if I wait 30 seconds to a minute, she will go back to a high rpm crank and start up after 2-3 seconds.
I have Auto Ingenuity and a SCT tuner so I can data log PID's.
In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
View 14 RepliesWhat are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
am in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
View 14 Repliesafter a loud screeching sound that sounded like a spun shaft rubbing on metal iwent under and found the starter wabbling around. Its going to be a first for me. Anything out of the ordinary i should know before moving on with the replacement..
04 f250 diesel 6.0
So about a week ago I noticed that my 2006 6.0 with 240k miles smelled like antifreeze. I popped the hood and noticed my dega tank was empty. I added coolant to halfway between max and min. A couple days later discovered coolant had dropped to just below min fill. Went to start it this morning and the starter won't engage the flywheel. I hear the relay click and the starter is making a whirling noise. I figure I will try to manually crank it to check if it's the fly wheel. If it's not that I guess I will take the starter to get tested. And if that's not it.. I guess a mechanic.
View 1 Replies