Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F350 - Battery Light On - Won't Start - Starter?
Apr 3, 2017
am in possession of my fianc's F350. The battery light kept coming on, I changed both batteries... twice. I pulled the alt and took it to 2 different stores, asking them each to test it twice, and it checks out good. Drove it to a family function in Sept and it died (no lights, no dings, just completely dead), couldn't get it to jump so I had to have it towed. Tow truck driver said it was probably the starter solenoid, but I couldn't get any confirmation. Had a charger/jumper hooked up to it and got gage movement, dings and heard a clicking sound when I tried to start it.... still no jump. Is this a starter issue, or an electrical issue?
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Battery light came on today. Checked voltage with truck running and only getting 11.8 / 11.9 volts at each battery. Alternator shot or ????? 2004 F350
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I have a 2003 F 350 Crewcab 6.0 liter SD. I was preparing my truck for the first haul of the Summer. I noticed that my batteries were on their way out after 2 years old. I replaced them and noticed I had an intermittent battery light coming on/off on/off. It seemed like only at lower RPMs. So the day of my trip, I ended up changing out the alternator.
The trip went fine, however, I noticed that pesky battery light came on and then off a few times. I also got a hot plastic type smell from the front of my truck.....you know that hot plastic smell Anyway, I got home just fine. Via Torque Pro, my battery volts were reading 12.2ish when my battery light came on, but then would quickly return to 13.9.
Since I"ve been home, I have read about fixing the grounding points for our trucks and also adding a second ground wire and a second hot wire from battery to battery. I can not find exactly where the ground's lead to. I still have that fricking battery light coming on .....more often that not. How to chase this problem.
First I need to find out where the ground wires go to. My volts of recent have been reading 11.5-12ish when the truck is running and the friggin battery light is on. I did search and found a few links to this problem, but where to find the grounding points.
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A little background, this is an 04, f-350. It sis not start a week ago so I charged the batteries and it started, started fine this morning, (had not driven it for the week) Drove it to work, 35 miles, parked it, and it will not start.
I downloaded Torque and got a few numbers,
HPOP 1900 FMP 48V (repaired last summer) and FVP 11.5V.
Ran out of battery to surf more and look, so I am trying to figure out the app, and the issue with the truck. It seems to turn over good, until I ran the battery down, and the GP cycles normally, and the injector buzz seems good. Temp is in the 50's...
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 powerstroke i recently fixed a oil leak in my remote oil cooler and after I was finished it ran fine and ran fine for a few days I noticed yesterday it had a bit of a rough start and some today but would start and run normal. Started the truck this morning and drove it a bit and then let it sit while I went to the dentist came back out and truck wouldn't start. I am getting 200-330 icp with the ipr cycle at 88.5 ficm sync is good and colts are at 12.5 unplugged icp sensor to see if it would start after that and it disnt start so I ruled that out.
I'm currently waiting on AAA to bring my truck home for me but trying to make sure I'm right to start working on it tomorrow. I am thinking the ipr valve is clogged. Am I right to think this may be the issue? When I first installed my remote oil cooler I had the same issue crank no start turned out to be the ipr valve was gunked up and I ended up replacing it 300 dollars later. Then it started and everything was fine. So basically am I right to start at the ipr valve or should I start somewhere else?
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M buddy's truck just died and won't start. So far we have changed the ficm because the voltage would fluctuate down to 25, the ficm harness as it was chaffed through and bare wires touching each other, both fuel filter, tested the alternator, new batteries, new air filter and bubble test. The truck spins over and tries to go but won't. I have also tried starting it with the icp disconnected with no change. The secondary filter had lots of bubbles coming into it while filling it for the bubble test, but we did that a few times and no more bubbles. When trying to start you can sound fuel flowing through the secondary filter, is this normal? While trying to start there is black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. We have also tried leaving it plugged in over night and no go.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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I have a 6.0L Powerstroke with about 74k miles. I've owned it about a year. this weekend while driving on the highway at about 55mph i slowed to make a turn. As it came to idle i noticed it was idling real rough. As I accelerated it barely got across the highway. I went to where i was going and let it idle but gave it gas and raised the rpm's to about 1k.
I was concerned it was going to die. As I left it seemed to be better but as i drove it would get real rough and then go away. I accelerated a couple of times engaging the boost and it seemed to be better. I made it home and parked it, but i let it idle before i turned it off.
Now it will not start. it just cranks. everything is pretty much stock. i replaced the fuel filters back in december and also did the blue spring upgrade. I have a OBDII but i didn't have it with me so i wasn't monitoring at the this time. What should be my next step?
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I have a 04 f350 with 175k on it. At around 160k it had new head gaskets, 2-reman heads, egr delete, new oil cooler and it is studded and tuned with SCT and custom tunes.
Since after the head gasket change it seemed to have started blowing a little smoke on the cold starts mainly. In cold weather the starts seem to be harder or slower also. Now for the last 6k-8k miles there is a little smoke at a cold start. But if the motor is warm and it sits for a bit maybe 10 min or less it blows a nice puff of blue smoke or burnt oil.
The smell of burnt oil is mainly on hot starts not cold starts. It does not burn oil running. It will dump some black smoke under acceleration or load. Could this be an injector problem? Or something else? Can't figure it out.
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2004 F350 Lariat 6.0 Crew Cab 6spd... I just bought this truck a month or so ago has been a great running truck since. Before I got it it had headgaskets done, egr valve replaced, and new injectors installed.
Yesterday I shut it off and was setting up my scangauge and doing few other things and noticed I ran the batteries down to 7 volts. So I unhooked them and charged them seperately and cleaned the posts. Now today it won't start. Voltage shows 12.3 FICM logic and main both show 12v and FICM shows 48.5 and doesn't lower when cranking. CMP/CKP shows its not syncing and I am throwing a cmp sensor code. Its had the code since I got it and I've cleared it but always comes back. I've read its rare for a cmp sensor to go bad so I'm wondering if it sounds more like the wiring just seems strange its first time it wouldn't start and hasn't had any other problems.
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I have a 2005 F350 w/6.0 turbo diesel. Had starter replaced last spring. Went to store recently, came out & truck starter would just wind and whine, no flywheel engagement. Mechanic replaced Napa starter under warranty and now the starter whines when just trying to connect the battery(s) without even turning the key. I did try several attempts at starting truck when stranded at the local store, with no results but starter whining. Could I have created a dead short some where, and where would be a good place to start?? How do you get a schematic of the starting system?
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My nephew has a 2004 F350 that will crank but will not start. It will build oil pressure on the gauge. There is no injector buzz and no communication through OBD2 port. Is the PCM dead?
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I went out to start my truck yesterday which is a 2004 F350 6.0 Diesel. It wouldn't crank over so of course I tried to jump start it and it fired right up. Went to town while I was there got 2 new batteries and put them in went to start truck and again nothing but will only start when jumped even with new batteries I'm guessing there is a grounding out issue. Where to start?
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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2004 f350 4x4 sc dually 130K mi. Cranked truck this morning @ 18*F. Truck not plugged in but regular quick smooth startup. Noticed light blue smoke with normal condensation exhaust for about 5 seconds, then normal condensation exhaust for about 30 seconds. Drove truck at normal operating temps with 5* deltas. To my knowledge, truck has original turbo (Garrett), never been removed or cleaned by me. VGT at startup 70-72, running after warmup mid 50's. Is this a symptom of needing to replace turbo seal, and thorough cleaning while off?
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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My 2007 F350 6.0l DRW LARIAT battery voltage was too low to restart her while out and about today. I did notice that she seemed kind of when I started her up leaving my town to got over two towns away. So i set my Scan Gauge to check voltage and it was low considering she was running, in the low 12V range with radio and a/c running. So I figured the regulator is on it's way out but I this be able to restart her up. Anyway after a jump she started right up and I was able to get home no issues. After I jump started her the check engine icon was illuminated with DTC P0606. I'm not 100% on why this trouble code was recorded other than the fact that I tried to start her up which caused battery to fall below the 9.6V threshold to power the PCM. The voltage was still low after jumping her, so I figured i better swap in a new alternator but what kind. I hear that the alternator is an issue with this truck, so what should I get?? What alternator is proven to last on these trucks?
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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So about a week ago I noticed that my 2006 6.0 with 240k miles smelled like antifreeze. I popped the hood and noticed my dega tank was empty. I added coolant to halfway between max and min. A couple days later discovered coolant had dropped to just below min fill. Went to start it this morning and the starter won't engage the flywheel. I hear the relay click and the starter is making a whirling noise. I figure I will try to manually crank it to check if it's the fly wheel. If it's not that I guess I will take the starter to get tested. And if that's not it.. I guess a mechanic.
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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after a loud screeching sound that sounded like a spun shaft rubbing on metal iwent under and found the starter wabbling around. Its going to be a first for me. Anything out of the ordinary i should know before moving on with the replacement..
04 f250 diesel 6.0
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