Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Got Codes P04DA / P24A5 And P1102 After Engine Swap
May 12, 2017
I bought a 2011 F-450 with 205,000 Miles on it with a blow engine. Local shop installed a Ford NEW complete engine. Unfortunately we had Code P24A5 EGR Cooler Bypass Control Stuck after the swap. Truck drives fine just has CEL on. Goes to FORD and they test Vacuum from engine, on line, and on compents say all is good. Replace Vacuum switch and Control and neither fix it. Ford stumped and quits responding. So i go get my truck back since they wont respond and had it over 2 weeks.
I get it back and now it has Codes P04DA Closed Loop EGR AT Limit - Flow to high and P1102 Mass Air Flow Sensor in Range but Lower than expected. I also have a P21BO for the reductant level sensor "C" Circuit High.
Since picking it up from Ford, Truck has almost no throttle until oil temperature warms up. I clear codes, truck runs good after warming up and no CEL comes on. Drove it for over an hour. Next key cycle, and CEL is on with all the above codes. Could something be hooked up wrong? Where to start?
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So when I first bought my truck the ABS light was on. Pretty sure that code is P0107. The other code I'm getting is P1102. I started getting that after I bought this SCT X3 from a guy. It has Spartan tunes. So when I tune my truck my check engine light doesn't come on, but whenever I shut it off and turn it back on the check engine light comes on and I get that P1102 code. Why? How can I fix it all
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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6.0 diesel 83,000 miles. My CEL is always on and my Edge gauge says it's lower than expected Mass air flow. I've changed the filter, cleaned the MAF with special cleaner and then replaced with new. I've replaced the EGR valve.
If I clear the codes and run it I don't get a CEL until I turn it off. But the next time I start it, there it is again. My Edge reads 0.0-0.3 MAF while running but what that means. One end of my cleaner box is slightly warped but I can't feel any noticeable leakage.
Everything runs fine but I would like to regain the ability to have that idiot light available to tell me if I have a new problem.
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I traded from a 2011 F-250 XLT recently with premium package to a 2015 F-350 Lariat, but the truck we found didn't come with a couple of the features that I loved in my last truck. I live in western Nebraska, and travel very regularly to western North Dakota and central Illinois for my business. The truck has 5200 miles (had the truck for 1 month ), but everything is still in great condition and would hope for the same in return.
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Did the swap and all works good except the boost is often at 3psI then sometimes it works good. Used the 03 harness. So did I need to change a wire or sensor or use 03 pcm?? I was told maf sensor might cause issues but no codes for it.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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Bad day for the 2011 yesterday. Pulling my TT home from a great weekend tailgate. Stopped at rest area for a bio break. While accelerating on the on-ramp back to highway speeds, I hear/feel a pop under the hood. Immediately pulled over, and did a quick visual inspection, didn't see anything obvious, nor was anything dripping. Proceeded back onto highway.
Torque Pro indicated a P0471 & P1247, however no CEL lit on the dash. Noticed turbo boost was zero/near zero, and power output was way down. All 4 EGT sensors indicating 1000-1200 degree temps the entire time. Was able to make it home at reduced speeds. Noticed an odor burning engine oil too.
Was afraid truck wouldn't restart, so took it directly to the dealer after dropping trailer at home. Seems as though this should be covered under the 100K engine warranty, and I am at 95K now, so the timing was good if it was going to happen.
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I have a 2011 F-250 with 112k miles.
On 11/25/2016 at approximately 110k miles: my truck was 100% stock. I was about a half hour into a 3 hour drive and I got a Check Engine Light. I stopped to get some food and my truck was idling for about 10 minutes when the light came on. My code reader said it was for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I cleared the code, restarted the truck and drove away.. I drove about another 5 minutes until I started hearing a real bad air leak and the truck just didn't feel like it was driving right. Check engine light never came back on, but it just didn't feel right so I towed it home.
The truck went to the dealer, they said they found the EGR Inlet Tube was cracked, and that explained the air leak sound I heard when I continued driving, and they said the truck was probably running rich from the lack of air and that set the P0278 code. They replaced the tube and everything was fine.
On 12/14/2016 with around 111,500 miles: upset that just one pipe breaking could take down the whole truck with no one having that part in stock to get me back on the road, I "deleted" my truck. Removed the DPF, installed "block-off" plates for the EGR (which goes in place of the EGR inlet tube), a Cold-Air Intake, and H&S MiniMaxx. (Exact parts can be found in my signature).
On 12/25/2016 with around 112,500 miles: I was getting ready for work and I started my truck using the Ford Factory Remote Start that was original equipment on the truck. The truck ran for about 10 minutes when I hopped in it and took off. As soon as I got in it, The Check Engine Light was on and I had a code for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I erased the code and restarted the truck.. drove to work (around 50 miles) with no problems. Truck ran fine, I never felt any problems, and no smoke or anything like that.
10 hours later I'm getting ready to leave work and let the truck run on remote start for 10 minutes. I hop in the truck and drive away.. there's no check engine light, but, my tuner says there's two DTC's.. P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance" and now P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance"... I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, and drove home with no problems.
12/26/2016 I started the truck on remote start again for 10 minutes. No check engine light, but the tuner says there's one DTC for P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance". Cleared the code, restarted the truck, and drove to work with no problems. Got back in the truck after 12 hours, drove home and didn't get a DTC or Check Engine Light on the drive home.
12/27/2016: No DTC's or Check Engine light. Where I should start looking to fix this?
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2011 6.7L company truck that I drive. Couple days ago, got the Stop Safely Now message and CEL. There was noticeable loss in power as well. 10-15 seconds after SSN message, power came back and message went away. I'm assuming the loss of power was limp mode. It happened 2 more times today. Got to the dealer and they wouldn't read the code to tell me whether it was safe to drive, they were just too busy to take 3 minutes and read a code! Got codes read at O'Reilly and came up with the P2033 and P200C. I see where the P2033 may be a failing sensor, and that should be easy enough to confirm. My question specifically is regarding the P200C, Diesel Particulate filter Over Temp. Could this be a bad sensor as well, or could it be plugged causing the P2033?
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My 2011 F250 6.7 started throwing multiple codes a couple of weeks ago. I cleared them but they all came back at the same time. What these are pointing to? I'm assuming they're all related?
P0402 Exhaust gas flow excessive detection
P1249 Wastegate control valve performance
P0471 Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit range/performance
It throws 9 codes total, the three listed above, 3 times each.
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I have a 2011 F450 with a 6.7. It has 99K. The whole fuel system was replaced about 10K miles back. I installed a dieselsite aux fuel filter/water separator after that. Has been running like a top till this am on the way to work. Right before I get to my biz the reduced power warning came on, fortunately I made it into the parking lot at my biz. Then the engine died and it would not restart. Hooked it up to auto ingenuity and I got the P0087 code. I changed the diesel site fuel filters and the stock primary and secondary fuel filters.
The diesel site had a little bit of sediment but no water whatsoever. The Ford filters were very clean and had no trace of sediment or water, but I replaced them anyways. I cleared the code and tried to restart the engine but it will not start. Checked for codes again and now has P0087, P2291 and P2539. The pump is kind of loud when trying to prime the system but there is pressure to secondary filter on engine. I do not have a gauge and adapter to check the pressure yet. I did pick up a replacement pump before the parts dept closed. Could the pump still be bad even tho I do have pressure at the secondary filter?
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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From what I've read they are a direct replacement to our 6.0 trucks. This one looks alittle dirty but it only has 100k on it. Comes with a 90 day warranty.
What do you think, go for it? Should I upgrade my wiring battery cable wiring and grounds while i'm in there?
[URL]
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Like the title says I'm having an issue the past few days where I can't drive this truck more than a few miles before it starts acting up with rough idle at stoplights/sign and sluggish acceleration until it gets over 1200+rpm.
Cold starts fine, drives good till engine warms up to around 130+ECT then it starts acting up. Stumbles on acceleration for little bit and puts out a little black smoke until it gets moving. No check engine light or codes found.
However a month ago I had the check engine light come on with a P0404 & P0405 and it still started & ran/drove great even towing. If I reset the code it would stay off until I restarted the engine the next time. I replaced the Dorman EGR because it had a lifetime warranty and only had 5,000 miles on the first one. The code did not go away until about two weeks ago the light went off on the dash and has never come back but I had not erased the code? So I'm not sure if this is still lingering issue or what.
I was checking my ScangaugeII when I came back home today while the engine was still idling rough and this what I saw for Numbers:
Low idle in Park
ECT 193
EOT 191
FICM 49.0
IPR 21.4
ICP 582
ICV 0.81
V 13.8
TFC 1.91
VSS(fan speed) 0
(This one doesn't seem right in the past is 500 or more rpm from what I remember?) What am I missing to check over?
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I have a customer with a 2011 that has a ticking noise that developed into a engine miss with no fault codes. His mileage has dropped from 18 mpg to 14.5 . Heard the noise more pronounced in the left bank. Tonight I disassemble the engine and found the rocker arms by the pivot ball are showing signs of recent wear looks as if they had a die grinder taken to them. The rockers spear loose? The truck has over 100k on it.
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I just got a new 2006 E-350 van about 4 months a go (my previous 2004 got scraped - found out the fuel line leaving the secondary filter into the engine with clogged with bits of paper (wtf?)... after I decided salvaged it for parts for my new van...).
New van drives beautifully in the last 4 months without problem, but shut down on me on the highway yesterday. No strange noise or anything when it went out. I managed to coast safely to the side of the highway. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to start the truck again and had it towed home. It cranks, but doesn't start.
I have a scan gauge ii this time and it shows the following:
KOEO:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP 0
IPR 14.8%
Sync 0
Cranking:
FICM ~48.5V
ICP ~8PSI
IPR 84.7%
Sync 1
I still have a P0299 and P2262 check engine code from 2 days previous to the above, but this doesn't seem to be related to the no-start conditioning (both turbo related)
So, pretty much, I'm looking at a very low ICP. Some research indicates this is is due to a bad HPOP, bad STC fitting, or a massive leak. Given the really low ICP, can I rule out the STC fitting and leak? Looks like only the LPOP is providing pressure. Is there anyway to tell if the HPOP is dead or not once I remove it?
Anything I should shot-gun replace first? I have a bunch of salvaged parts from my old van in my garage, which doesn't include the HPOP unfortunately.
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Curious how it went and what additional hardware was needed.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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