Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: When Sitting At Idle In Park And Truck Starts Knocking / Horrific Sound
Mar 23, 2016
So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
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My truck when idling kind of spools up a little bit for a few seconds and then the turbo goes back down. sounds really cool actually. its been doing it since the truck was new, sounds like a plane engine shutting down. It does it over and over sometimes. I just deleted the dpf and unplugged egr last night and now i can really hear it! is this normal....
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The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
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Having a puddle of coolant under truck after sitting. Shop said its a oring on the egr cooler. 1200.00? Is that normal?
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Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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Truck (04 excursion, 2WD, early build 6.0, 160k) started missing and rough idle on way home from work after sitting all day in rain - parked. started fine in morning and drove to work with no trouble - it was raining over night too.
To get you up to speed. for a few weeks before had intermittent trouble starting. would fire up as normal, fast and loud, but then stall immediately (usually after sitting overnight). would start back up but with a little long on the key and some gas pedal action. only happen one out of ten or twenty starts and seemed to follow getting fuel in unknown locations while on a trip out of town. decided to change out fuel filters and drain separator. seemed to fix it for a week or so then it happened again two days before above event, while weather was dry. Not sure if related but only recent problem to speak of.
Back to current:
- no check engine light or codes (I have a scanner)
- stalled out close enough to home the night in question I rolled it into driveway and tried to start it while rolling in neutral - no start
- once parked in driveway also no start
- next evening wanted to get it into garage (to dry off) and it started but rough idle and missing. this was after 24 more hours sitting in rain.
- been in garage 24 more hours and this evening got it to run but same result (rough idle and hard start). tried to check connections (mainly FICM) and move wire loom around - still same.......
Where to check next, need some diagnostic...
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I need the transmission speed sensor for my truck and I am getting a confusing array of Motorcraft and Ford part numbers. I have Motorcraft numbers DY1251 (Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor Assembly) and DY1229 (Transmission Speed Sensor). Not sure what the difference is between the two.
I've been having a recurring problem where, when my speedometer starts wavering, the truck will sometimes jerk, like maybe it's trying to down shift or a stumble of some sort. I've replaced the VSS in the rear diff (with Motorcraft) which cleared up the worst of it, but this problem still persists.
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I'm posting this for my neighbor who has a F250 that's 8 years old. He has replaced many parts, engine from what I know but now when he starts the truck it starts fine but as soon as he starts the truck, the brakes lock up. He can't move it. He hasn't had the chance to move it because the brakes lock as soon as the truck starts. It starts fine and idles fine but can't move because the brakes are locked. Tomorrow the tow truck will haul it to the ford dealership so they can look at it and run the diagnosis computer on it.
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On way way to Florida and got 5 hours away and after the truck ran flawlessly for 5 hours it all of a sudden started billowing smoke, lots of knocking, and died. Now the engine won't turn over, tries to but acts like it's stuck. No codes...Accidentally crushed the cord on my CTS so no way to read codes. Just did studs and injectors
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it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
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OK I know it's not a 6.0 or even a diesel. I had my Ford Expedition(2005) in to have rear main bearing seal, transfer case input shaft seal, etc, which included dropping the transmission. When we picked it up I noticed that it now shakes when in Park and Neutral when at idle. The shake cycles every 2 seconds or so, shakes for 2 seconds, smooths out for 2 seconds, shakes for 2 seconds, etc. There are no codes thrown, it runs smooth in gear running at interstate speeds and in town driving. They put the scanner on it, unbolted the transmission and re torqued them, and a bunch of other stuff. They are lost. I though maybe the torque converter wasn't in balance or something but they ruled that out.
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My ford f250 i have a intermittent knocking sound when i turn the ac/ heater? it is not all the time and can never tell when it is going to happen. i always think the worse like it is a cylinder or something.
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2004 F550 with a 6.0. I had to clean out my fuel tank, replace the HFCM and filter on top of the engine. When I start the truck it will run for 30 seconds or so, start running rough then die. I opened the cap on the fuel filter housing on top of the engine to make sure the fuel was getting there. I turned the key on and the fuel bowl quickly filled up.
After a short time however, the fuel drained out. To where I do not know. I don't think this is normal as every time I've changed the upper filter on a 6.0 it is always full of fuel. Why could this one be draining out and could that be the issue why the truck dies after starting and running for a short period of time. I changed the o-ring on the cap and the new HFCM was purchased from Ford.
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So I am owning my first diesel so I am still getting use to it. Shortly after I bought it, I had to make my 900 mile drive to work and it ran great. After being here for a week or so I noticed heavy white smoke bit thought it had to do with the -5- -10. And haven't seen the white smoke since the weather warmed up. Since then I have noticed a "knocking" sound that to me sounded like a rod that I didn't notice before. After reading through these forums, it sounds like I probably have a cracked injector. I have had no engine light or anything. So my question is, can an injector fail or be cracked without an engine light and can a code reader detect which one it is with no light on?
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I have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
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A while back my 05' f350 6.0 was having rough starts and an erratic idle. It died coming up to a stop sign it started back up after 2 cranks and then it did that same on the way home. The next day leaving work it wouldn't start. I knew i had a couple injectors on the way out so i decided it was time to replace all 8 upon tearing it down i noticed my oil cooler was leaking so i figured it was time to rebuild that and finally do the egr delete that i had been wanting to do. well i put it all back together and got a no start.
The dash gauge on my oil pressure is reading normal when i cranked it so i went and bought a scangauge2 to read the icp its hitting 1500psi when i crank it. The ipr% is reading good. But my ficm main power is at 26v with the key on then it drop to 14v while cranking and eventually down to about 9v. Its never at the 48v that its suppose to be at. The scan gauge is also showing that my ficm sync=0. Would the sync be showing 0 since the ficm is bad? My batteries are fully charged and i have both of them on the charger while I am cranking it.
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I have a 2014 Superduty with 41000 km on it. I was driving in a remote area yesterday about 53 km from pavement. I stopped for a break and had a very noticeable knocking sound that was more noticeable on the drivers side towards the back of the engine. I had no choice but to keep driving it. the truck ran perfectly fine for the 4 hour trip home(1 hour on gravel and 3 hours on highway) when I stopped a couple of times after that there was definitely no knocking sound an it is not there today, what this could have been? like I said the knocking was so noticeable that you couldn't miss it...
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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Had 3 separate episodes dead pedal on my 04 bone stock 6.0. About a week ago I pulled out on the road and the truck went to idle and would not respond no matter how much throttle I gave. After about 10 seconds it woke up and took off. Had this happen 2 more times this afternoon.
No codes or dash lights.... What this might be? I have a 500 mile road trip this weekend and am worried about being stranded on the side of the road.
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