My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
View 8 RepliesNoise goes away (or maybe it quietens to the point that you can't hear it) when you raise the idle just slightly. No smoking, no hard to start, no rough idle, no indicators of anything wrong at city or highway speed, nothing else out of the ordinary to report.
275K miles
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I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
I have a late 99 7.3 that developed a knocking noise. I pulled the passenger's head and cylinder 5&7 have a spot where it looks like it came in contact with the valve. I'm not some master mechanic but am learning. What would be my next step to find why it hit the valve and to fix the problem?
View 14 RepliesChasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
View 14 RepliesStarted noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires an engine rebuild. I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed).
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
Seems like I have an issue every other week of driving my truck. Today I arrived at work and attempted to shift into park but it wouldn't go. I went to tighten the bolts and after tightening it still wouldn't work. So I tried tightening them again and the top of the top bolt broke off. So I took a nut and a lock washer and put it on the other side (was very hard) and got it tightened best I can. It looks tightened pretty good but I still can't shift into park. Maybe the bushing for that piece are bad? I have no clue where to go from here or what I need or even if putting a nut on the bolt works.
View 4 RepliesWon't shift into park, Checked the two bolts and they were tight. Ended up having a rock wedged behind shift lever on the transmission.
View 3 RepliesMy truck will not always start when in park, Have to switch it to neut sometime, and sometime after putting it in park it won't fully engage, I know the part that I need to replace just don't know the name or the part number for ford....It is the part that adjusts the shift indicator...
View 2 RepliesI have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
View 14 RepliesI have 2000 F-250 7.3L when I start it up and push the brake it won't come out of park and when I push the brake the volt meter goes to 8 volts. If I shut it off and try again it is ok. Might take a couple of times of doing this then it's ok for a couple of days then it happens again. I've checked the connection on brake switch and everything looks ok. What to check next?
View 1 RepliesI own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
I just put a regulated return system, two external filters and two fuel pumps, and I am still have problems.
Under acceleration driving it drops to almost 20 psi and that only 1/4 throttle.
3/4 throttle drops to 10 psi and barely idel. Died twice a block away from my house of test drives.
Tank is done with mods, new cps, icp, and ipr.
I have noticed that I have to hold my gear selector towards park to get the reverse lights to come on. Also some times I have to hold it towards park to get it to start. I changed my tranny in Dec 2009 and occasionally it would do this while starting, just noticed the reverse lights about a week ago. Tried moving the cable where it attaches to the tranny a couple of serrations each direction. No luck. Is there another place I can make an adjustment?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2002 7.3 Excursion with DP Tuner. Truck has 167K on it. My check engine light came on when I was driving to work this morning. Stayed on for the ride home. Appeared to drive ok - a little rough - but it has been that way for a while. When I got home I plugged in the AutoEnginuity and this is what came up:
So it appears I have a glow plug issue. That does not surprise me as I have had some rough starts this past winter. On a whim I ran the Cylinder Contribution Test and it completed successfully. Yet when I started the truck again it completely falls on it's face when accelerating. Here is a link to a video: [URL] .....
It did this once about a month ago. I was driving to work and stopped at a light and when I tried to accelerate, it did this. I limped to a gas station a 100 yards away. I let it sit and started it up, drove home. Went in the house and did some googling and of course after I came back out, it worked fine. Has not done it since.