Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Knocking Noise Most Noticeably At Hard Acceleration Or Taking Off In General
Jan 2, 2016
I have begun to notice a "Knock" or "rattle" in the engine. I know diesels have a tendency to sound like that just from running but that sound is more of a "cackle" if you ask me.
I can hear the "knock" most noticeably at hard acceleration or taking off in general. It can also be heard during idle and every so faintly at deceleration with the torque converter locked so it makes me thing its mechanical due to the nature of the way the sound is audible.
I believe the sound is coming from the passenger side bank as that is where I can hear it the best with my head under the hood. I have a code reader and checked, I have no visible codes other than it telling me about secondary fuel circuit high which I suspect was from showing off with my friends.
I did a cylinder balance test and again got 3 (PO269) and 8(PO284) which I have been told are very common.
I checked my ICP readings and it was 500~ and 11%
Pulse width for injectors was 2.50~
I did a KOER test and received no codes
Glow Plugs showed okay
KOEO (PO605)- Internal Control Module Read Only Memory error.
Exhaust Absolute Back Pressure was 16.2 at Idle with MBRP 4" Turbo back.
Also, I have noticed a drop of about 5-10 degrees in my oil temp and about 100 degrees drop in my EGT's although it has been pretty cold here recently (32 degree oil temp when I started her at 2 in the afternoon)..
I think it might be a bad piston skirt? I am guessing that from my experience with motorcycle engines but these are a totally different beast and that is why I am here...
I have 634,000 Miles and from what I have been told the engine has never been broken into so I would expect something like this myself. I am mostly looking for a place to start. Should I pull the oil pan and look for debris? (Oil was clean last time I changed it less than 2000 miles ago).
Should I pull the passenger bank apart and look inside? Is there a chance I am just hearing the noise due to the additive wearing off and me being used to the quieter engine?
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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I have a 2001 F-350 7.3L Powerstroke. 48,000 miles. I've been having trouble with cold starts. So far it has always started but is taking a lot of cranking, but it hasn't gotten too cold yet so I'm worried about when it does. I ohmed out the the glow plugs and am getting close to 0 resistance. The GPR has 12.5 volts on the hot side and when the relay is closed 10.5 on the other side. Is that difference in voltage in the GPR enough to screw up the Glow Plugs heating up? If I plug it in at night it starts right up. I'm worried about when I am at work for 16 hours and don't have a place to plug it in this winter. BTW this is my first winter with the truck.
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My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
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2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
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Noise goes away (or maybe it quietens to the point that you can't hear it) when you raise the idle just slightly. No smoking, no hard to start, no rough idle, no indicators of anything wrong at city or highway speed, nothing else out of the ordinary to report.
275K miles
[URL] .....
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I have a late 99 7.3 that developed a knocking noise. I pulled the passenger's head and cylinder 5&7 have a spot where it looks like it came in contact with the valve. I'm not some master mechanic but am learning. What would be my next step to find why it hit the valve and to fix the problem?
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Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
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My truck is currently stock and recently started making a knocking noise louder than it usually does. I researched and have found the injectors can make a knocking noise when not performing correctly. I took it to a local shop who hooked it up to a snap on scan tool and ran some tests. It passed the Buzz test but continually failed the contribution test on cylinder 8. I'm going to go home and remove valve cover and unclip the injector to see if the noise goes away. I'm sure hoping it does as an injector by the looks of things is definitely the cheaper option. I'm scared because if I was listening to a gas powered truck and heard the sound my trucks making I would assume it was a lower end noise. My truck only has 148,000 miles....
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Started noticing a whooshing noise when I let off the accel pedal on my 2002 F250 7.3 powerstroke.
You can hear it best towards the end of this video: [URL] .....
What could this be?
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Ok I've got an 01 F250 sd 7.3 with 257k on it it just started talking longer to start than it should it will do it cold or hot even if I shut it off at the drive thru takes it like 10 sec or more to fire. My question is I thought about purchasing a autoenginuity to find the problem but not sure the best place to get and what model I should get.
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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I have an early 99 F250 4x4 7.3L..... 4R100....
Brief history, a while back on way home from work I let off of the accelerator and had a loud gear meshing like grinding noise, got back on the accelerator and went away, let off and back, so I quickly stopped and pulled over, went through the gears and reverse, everything seemed ok,??? went on my way, got home parked the truck and went about my evening. came out next day to leave and truck wouldn't move in reverse, forward but not reverse. long story short I was told that the snap ring internally probably came out, I have heard of this being a big issue with these, so I set up for it to be rebuilt, got it back and installed and still same issue, what the crap so I ended up having to pull it back out and amongst my own trouble shooting I found the simple issue and was the nylon riders on the 4hi/4low shifter fork were completely gone and allowing the planetary group to free float in and out of 4x4 neutral!!! NOW on to the issue at hand. so far only thing has been done is rebuilt and those fork riders replaced.
now I can move but 2-3 upshift under a load(more noticeable) has a delay going from 2nd to 3rd and under a load it hits hard. I talked to the guy that rebuilt it and he said that the rebuild kits don't always the right springs for the valve body and causes shift issues, so he talked me into the shift corrector kit which I researched and did see what he was saying, so had that done and still no better, still does it, however, it does shift into the gear softer but didn't fix the delay or the hitting hard when it did finally go into 3rd.
After being forced to drive it that way I have since determined that what it happening is it is coming out of 2nd with a second and half pause and then shifting into 3rd, the hard shift comes in to play because during the delay the torque convertor is locking up making it a direct drive like popping the clutch on a standard!!!
I just swapped out the sol pack and I heard from a youtube video that the bolt next to the 2-3 upshift valve on the valve body could be to tight and making a sticky valve, so I re-torqued all the bolts and nuts put all back together and test drive proved to be worse, I now have same issue in all upshifts. all hit hard now, I am at a loss and don't know where to go from here, I can only imaging the sol pack is causing this but I have yet put my org one back in to see... oh and I found two bolts on the accumulator stripped and found one non torqued bolt on the main valve body!!
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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It always starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyone's thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
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5 months ago I brought a f250 7.3 2000 model the car i always wanted and to take a trip around australia but I am having problems with the 4r100 transmission that was rebuilt before i purchased the truck
The problem and checks. Truck taking of in 3rd can manual select 2nd but not 1st
Getting Codes P0715 , P0717 changed turbine speed sensor checked wiring to pcm all ok codes still coming up
Put truck on scanner and found TSS reading when manually in 2nd but not in park neutral or drive
Removed PTO cover to check gear turning that the TSS reads from with the truck up on stands the gear only turns in 2nd when in park neutral or drive it is stopped verifing what the scanner is seeing the scanner also see the gear changes but the transmission is not changing ...
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Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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I have a 02 power stroke 7.3, driving down the road the other day is started smoking a grayish white smoke pretty good. i let off the throttle and it had a real loud knock along with the smoke. oil pressure was good. i stuck it in neutral and revved it up kept smoking but the knock would go away at higher rpm. then all at once it would stop and run fine. then today it started doing it and wont stop now at all.
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Wonder if its dry driveshaft slip splines? Only happens when leaving a dead stop under hard acceleration. Hard to describe sound, but seems to be coming from behind me, almost sounds like 2 broken pieces of steel snapping past each other. frame is o.k., leaf springs are o.k. , doesn't do it when shifting between gears or if I gently take off from a stop. I don't think there's a grease fitting for the driveshaft where the splines are (where the 2 piece shaft takes up slack for being loaded or unloaded) may have to take that apart once the weather breaks and see what i find. my 1st ranger never had this issue after 200K miles. this truck is now at 145K but its almost 20 years old. I've read somewhere before about pulling the shaft apart & greasing the splines up. does this sound like a possibility for whats happening? not sure what else it could be.
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I own a 2000 7.3 6 speed with 175,000 miles. I just bought it less than a month ago and it is my first diesel.
About a week ago I stepped on the gas and it just had nothing. I have a TS 6 position chip that I unplugged as soon as I noticed the loss in power. When I first bought the truck it was incredibly fast and now it has nothing to it at all. I have to have it higher in the RPM's to go up hills (especially when its not warmed up). If I push the pedal down it will sound the same, boost will get to about 14 (without chip) and the truck doesn't let out any smoke but it just doesnt have any power at all. I recently towed another vehicle on a trailer and it really struggled with it, more than I thought a diesel should.
When the chip was in, the truck would let out black smoke even after I noticed the loss in power. That made me think that the engine was getting enough fuel. I thought there could be a boost leak somewhere but it still builds 14 psi. However, I do not feel boost kick in at all! When I first got the truck it would only build around 14-15 stock but it felt a hell of a lot faster and I could feel when boost would really kick in. I took off my intake and looked at the turbo and the fins are in great shape and there is little to no play.
What the problem could be? I don't have very much money to start dumping parts into the truck and Im not sure what to do. I guess my questions would be:
1) Is it a boost leak, fuel problem, or something else?
2) Could a gelled filter give me these problems?
3) What should I do and where should I start?
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A little background first on my 1999 Ford F350 7.3. A few months ago I noticed i had fuel in my coolant which lead me to a cracked injector cup. I replaced all 8 cups and since I had it apart, and I bought the truck used and didn't know what had been serviced, I replaced the injector o-rings, glow plugs, valve cover gaskets, and valve cover gasket wiring harnesses. Got it all back together and had been running great.
About a week ago I was parked with engine running and the stereo suddenly turned off. A few minutes later I turned the truck off and turned it back on about 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start. Batteries appeared dead so I jumped it and made it home. Took both batteries down to AutoZone and since they were under warranty got two new ones. Figured out my alternator was bad and not charging my batteries so I ordered a new one.
Up to this point truck has been running fine. Truck had sat in my driveway for the week while waiting for the alternator. While I was out of town my father in law went to use the truck and noticed it wouldn't start. He hooked some jumper cables up and got the truck started. He said as he drove off the truck had no power and smoke was pouring out the exhaust.
I charged the batteries and installed the new alternator. Truck starts great and seems to be idling normal. When I took it for a test drive it has no power when accelerating and black smoke pours out the exhaust. The truck will barely make it up any type of incline.
I thought maybe it was the injectors not firing. Wiring harnesses are plugged in and do not appear to be damaged. I did not remove the valve covers yet as it's not difficult but time consuming and I figured since I just replaced all of it that it should be ok. I did a buzz test and all injectors passed. I get no trouble codes or check engine light.
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I just put a regulated return system, two external filters and two fuel pumps, and I am still have problems.
Under acceleration driving it drops to almost 20 psi and that only 1/4 throttle.
3/4 throttle drops to 10 psi and barely idel. Died twice a block away from my house of test drives.
Tank is done with mods, new cps, icp, and ipr.
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