Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Start On Cold?
Oct 23, 2015
Well.. my truck has been running great for the past few years. This morning I went to start it and all it does is cranks and cranks.. no start not even a sputter.. I use the torque app and noticed the HPOP was over 900 psi during cranking and ICP volts were .8 volts. FICM was 48.5 and around 47 during cranking. I even unplugged the ICP connector and got the same results.. just cranks and no start. i noticed while it cranks i don't get any white "smoke" coming out of the tail pipe I even sniffed in there and I don't smell any diesel at all.
I pulled the upper fuel filter and it is full of fuel, the fuel pump does its normal buzzing when the key is turned on. I even checked the emergency shut off switch for the fuel pump and it was fine. At the moment I am charging both batteries... they were draining because of all the cranking. I think I will check the FICM with a multi meter when the batteries are good and charged.. Seems weird to be running fine with no hints of issues then all of a sudden its dead.
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I recently bought an 03 F350. I've noticed on cold starts that it has no power. After about 5 minutes it runs very well. I have not noticed any misfires or smoke and there are no codes thrown. Based on what I have read here, I assumed it was a FICM issue. I just got done testing it and it was at a solid 48v with 1 dip to 46 on engine crank. I'm baffled at this point. The truck literally has no other issues except low power for the first 5 minutes.
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I just bought a new to me, 2005 ford f-350 6.0L turbo diesel with 220,000 miles. It has an EGR delete, and aftermarket intake and exhaust. I am having power loss issues, and cold start issues, and judging from these symptoms, I figured it was the FICM. I thought it had to be the FICM. As per the tech folder on this site, I tested the FICM. I first learned that I have one of the Bullet proof FICM's, and when I tested it (3 times) it read between 57.5 and 58V. I conducted this test three times both with just turning the key, and with the truck running. I then took the truck into Ford, and they gave me a list of all of the codes the truck threw:
P0611
p0113
p0405
p0671
p0673
p0675
p0677
p0341
I researched all of these codes, and it seems to point to the FICM, but Ford stated they pulled a reading of 54.5v. The tech then told me that the upgraded bullet proof FICM probably ruined my injectors, because my injectors we not upgraded. Is this True?
Even though my FICM is above the low limit for voltage, can it still be going out? I am taking the truck in to have the batteries load tested, so I will know if they are contributing to my FICM failing.
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So I have an '03 6.0 with 151000 and change. I go out to light her off in the morning and she fires quick and easy. Idles well and no complaints. But when hot shes sluggish to start. Now it's not what I would call a typical hard start considering I've watched videos on YouTube and guys are having a lot harder of a time then me getting theirs started. It's just not the same as cold it almost sounds like it's lacking fuel cause it starts real low after fire then with a couple revolutions it perks up. And this is without the key still in it. Again no idle or running issues at all. I've been trying to see if it could be my ipr? My ficm is new and never gets below 47V but idk what it is.
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Been having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
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07 6L gave me a fit the other morning. I spent the night in the mountains Saturday night. Sunday morning was -5. With no place to plug in the block heater. When I started it it bucked and hawed and didn't want to run... It keep surging for a while and finally smoothed out after about 3 mins... Is there an additive that will work for this for the times there is no place to plug in? Oil additive or fuel additive?
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2007 F350 138,000 miles
I'm having a small problem. For the past couple of weeks I've started the truck in the morning. I let it run for a few min's as I always do. I jump in it an put into gear and it stalls. Put back in Park , starts right up and then is fine.
knowing that the EGR is due for its monthly cleaning, I went ahead this time around and got a new one for it. Same thing this morning.
I think its kinda odd that it stalls that one time and then is fine. I do run a scan gauge in the truck as well.
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I'm having a bit of a cold start issue, need to know if it is normal or something is wrong. I live in southern Indiana and it's gotten down to a VERY cold 50 degrees (lol) and the past two mornings I have started it up and it seems to have a misfire first thing in the morning and it will kick into high-idle mode and after I shut it off and start it back up about 20 seconds later after the ECT gets above 100* and it runs perfectly. It has brand new 190/100 injectors from Warren, an IDP tune, and I am running 13 quarts of FoMoCo 15w-40 oil with 2 quarts of hot shot stiction eliminator (tried it before installing new injectors). And also throwing no codes. Is this normal or should I be looking for a problem?
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2003 Excursiom 4x4 Limited
My first Diesel. Runs and drives great. Torque Pro app only showed coolant temp at 188. Would not show oil temp. Hard to cold start. New injectors. Has a programmer. He is asking 12K. It has 209K miles.
It belongs to a friend of mine and he rarely drives it. It stays under a cover most of the time.
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So I am getting low FICM volts at cold start. The FICM will start at 46v and eventually drop below to 42v, but when I start to drive the truck the FICM volts go back up to 47.5, and my battery voltage goes back up to 13.8 to 14.1.
I am pretty sure my alternator is doing its job.
I left my truck sit for 2 or 3 weeks with out starting her or putting a battery tender on it, this was about two weeks ago. I have not had this problem before. Sounds to me like the batteries need a charge.
My batteries back up to full charge. I plan on letting the truck sit over night with a charger hooked to it.
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I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
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Can a leaking Y Pipe throw a P0299? Dealership says that is my problem. My MAP at idle is 14.4 EBP is 17 - 18. At 60mph MAP is 20 EBP is 26-28. Boost is 10-20 .. Truck drives great no apparent issue. P0299 only code and appears when cold first start of day. If I clear it it goes away for the rest of the day and only comes back occasionally. Twice in 5 days only at cold start. 2005 F350, 100% stock, Ford filters all. Scan guage 2 for readings....
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We've had a run of -20 to -40 weather here for the past few weeks.
A few weeks back I noticed that when I climbed into my truck after command-start warm up for 10 minutes, and I could smell strong exhaust.
I figured it was hopefully the wind, or an isolated event.
Over the past few weeks I've used my truck for 3-4 more around town runs and every time I warm it up I get the strong exhaust smell. It's that rich, eye watering, sickening exhaust smell. I also notice a small yellow frozen puddle under the exhaust tips that wasn't there before.
It's bad in the cab, but even walking around outside the truck and the smell is sickening. I actually just started the truck and I could actually smell the exhaust smell faintly, from inside my house! This has never before occurred. Prior to this, a person could hardly tell it was a diesel by the smell of the exhaust.
Once the truck is up to temperature the smell seems to disappear, or at least lessen.
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Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
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I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
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Don't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
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2005 Starts fine after first start. Ficm voltage 47 to 48 on Edge insight, stc replaced...
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 diesel with 110K miles. it takes me about 10 tries to get the engine to start. When it finally starts there is a lot of smoke and engine runs really bad. This isn't the case if I have the engine warmer plugged in. After warm up the engine runs pretty good.
My engine light comes on sometimes and will go out other times. I have tried sever attempts at adding injector cleaner with no results. Am weary about taking it to Ford for an analysis. Where to start with repairs? I did take it to Orielly auto and had the engine checked on their scanner. Approximately two pages of possible repairs come up.
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I "Bulletproofed" my f-250 Super-duty last summer and she ran great for a time, actually she is still running great, except for one thing that is driving me crazy. On a cold start it turns over until the oil pressure builds up. Then she will crank and runs fine, also starts normally after warm, turns over a couple of times and cranks.
I have oil in the filter housing, have replaced the seal at the bottom of it. Just pulled the oil rails off and replaced the seals on them, and a new IPR seal and filter. I am still having the problem, F.I.C.M. voltage has been fluctuating between 45 and 46 vdc. I have a P300 and P308 code.
I haven't really considered Injectors because it is idling smooth as silk and has great power.
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I've got a cold start problem. Turn it on, wait until glow plug light goes off, hit the starter and it fires right up. It acts like it runs out of fuel and dies. Hit the starter and it fires up and dies again. Third time it stays running. It's not a long crank either. 1-2 seconds at most. Fuel pressure is 59, HPOP immediately goes 1000+, everything looks good. It will start fine the rest of the day until it sits overnight. This is an early 04.
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