Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rough Start When Cold - Normal?
Nov 2, 2015
I'm having a bit of a cold start issue, need to know if it is normal or something is wrong. I live in southern Indiana and it's gotten down to a VERY cold 50 degrees (lol) and the past two mornings I have started it up and it seems to have a misfire first thing in the morning and it will kick into high-idle mode and after I shut it off and start it back up about 20 seconds later after the ECT gets above 100* and it runs perfectly. It has brand new 190/100 injectors from Warren, an IDP tune, and I am running 13 quarts of FoMoCo 15w-40 oil with 2 quarts of hot shot stiction eliminator (tried it before installing new injectors). And also throwing no codes. Is this normal or should I be looking for a problem?
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
I have been debating if i should use seafoam engine treatment. My truck has been having issues with the first cold start of the day. I've noticed the rough idle that accompanies the cold start. I live in Denver so this truck sees alot of stop n go traffic. Will seafoam do anything about the dirty fuel injectors. They have to be replaced here soon but will adding seafoam solution buy me more time. If so, what are the steps on how to add. The can isn't very detailed on instructions and Internet isn't being useful. I have an 04 F250 Lariat Power Stroke 6.0L diesel
View 14 Replies
I'm new to diesels. I just bought a 2004 F250 with the 6.0 V8. I have the high and low circuit, contribution codes on cylinders 4 and 8. I've only had the truck for a few days but I've been reading a ton. The symptoms are hard start, rough idle/shaking, no power when cold. When it heats up and I'm over 2000 RPM it seems to be just fine. Even when hot and below 2000 RPM it does ok. I've check the FICM. It reads 48V with key on and 48V running. My plan is to do the following:
Change the Fuel Filters
Change the oil filter
Change Air Filter
Change oil with 5-W30 synth and I have both Hot Shot/Rev-X
If that doesn't work, I'll replace the two injectors. How does that sound.
View 14 Replies
My '03 6.0 is hard to start and runs rough when cold. Not just cold outside temps, but engine not up to temp. Starts and runs like a champ once it's up to temp. It was doing this when I got it, but it's getting worse.
From what I've read the common culprits are:
1 - failed solder joints on FICM power supply board
2 - bad power supply side of the FICM
3 - updated flash needed for FICM
4 - injector stiction
5 - leaky O-rings at high pressure oil rail to injectors
I have read up on how to run the voltage test on the FICM with a multimeter.
Seems like I would have to go to a dealer to have the software version for the FICM checked.
I am 100% competent to do the tests and/or repairs myself, but since I recently moved in with my fiance in a condo and my tools are in storage, I will have to do it at a friend's house. That being the case, I want to know what all of the common things are that I may need to check for so I am prepared. So, I wanted to see if there were any other common causes of this issue.
I plan to test the FICM voltage and give FICMRepair.com some business if that's the problem. And if that's not the problem (or maybe even if it is) I will get the injector seal kits and replace all of the injector seals as well as disassembling and cleaning the spool valves in the solenoids. I will also change oil and fuel filters with Motorcraft parts and Rotella synthetic oil while I'm in there.
View 14 Replies
I have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
View 14 Replies
Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 Replies
My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
View 6 Replies
OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
View 13 Replies
When I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
View 3 Replies
My truck was running rough when cold, I went to check the ficm voltage while wife was cranking and coolant shot right into the ficm and cooked the sumbitch. Stop laughing that stuff happens to me all the time. Anyhow, got a new ficm and truck wont start. Starter kicks out after a few revs. I ran my own solenoid wire to the starter and it cranks just fine. ficm at 48.5 koeo and cranking, icp 1100+, ipr from 14.8 to around 40%, ...
It takes a few seconds for the cam/crank to sync but it does. I changed the fuel filters and primed it, Got new batteries, and threw a crank sensor for s+g. With the key on and me cranking it using the solenoid wire, it almost starts. But from the key it will kick out after a few seconds. All fuses and relays are good. I hear the pcm also controls the starter, could that have cooked when the ficm went or would it blow a fuse? Diagnosing using a scangauge2 ....
View 14 Replies
My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
View 5 Replies
About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
View 5 Replies
When I first start my excursion in the morning, it starts fine, idles fine. If I don't let it sit for about 5mins plus i have this issue. I will start off and it has no power at all. I can barely get up to 20mph. It doesn't seem to want to change gears, I don't hear the turbo spool up. Then all of a sudden it will go to next gear, turbo spools up and it has power again. It is like I said a 6.0 power stroke, its a 2004 excursion with 214k miles.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean .... It's 98* on a cool day , when "cold" I mean just started for many hours.
View 13 Replies
So,I am working on a 2003 F250 6.0 manual trans. all stock. 204,000 miles. I got it not running. Charged the batteries and pulled the 14 codes accumulated by the last people trying to work on it.There were cyl 1,2,5,6,7,8 contrib codes, P0403 and P0405 egr(the egr was unplugged when I got it), P0341 Cam pos., P0500 VSS, P0562 voltage low, P0683 glow plugs, P1378 fuel inj. ctrl., and a P1000. It is on it's second used car lot, no one can fix it and I don't know what they have done.
Cleared the codes, removed, cleaned, replaced the EGR, installed new batteries, and went over the wiring harnesses. I am down to the P1000, an occasional P0405, and random cyl 3, sometimes 2 contrib codes. If I warm it up and clear the codes, I don't get any contrib codes.
I hooked up the Scan Gauge and the ICP is 554-up cranking, starts without any long crank, runs at 644 at an idle, revs up and reads 2404 max. This is sitting in the garage.
The IPR was 14.8 to start off with, running mostly between 29.7 and 38. revving it up. The FMD is steady 48.0. I have run the buzz test both warm and cold- sounds good, no faults found. Have run the KOER and KOEO demand tests, no faults. There is no smoking. I have changed the fuel filters. I have not located an adapter to hook up my fuel pressure gauge.
As it is right now, it starts reasonably well (it's in the 20's here at night). It runs rough until the temp gauge gets to the top of the little thermometer symbol, then it runs better. The turbo sounds like it's operating as expected, nothing weird. Cold it has a rough idle and poor throttle response. Warm it idles well, with an intermittent light "shudder" .
The weirdest thing I find is the fuel pedal, when I rev it up warm, it won't come back to idle right away, takes 10-20 seconds. It also does this shifting. It does not rev up on it's own, and it will stick at any RPM. I did not find a value for TPS on my datastream on my scan tool (Auto Xray Tech scan 7000). When I let off the throttle the IPR and HPOP pressure drop. The truck was hardly driven for the last 7 years (6000 miles).
I have added some Archoil 9100, that smoothed out the warm operation even more, it drives perfectly down the road (300 miles the other day). I sent the FICM (the guys on the other forum insisted my problem sounds like the logic side of the FICM) to Ed, got it back, no change. I took a peek at the IPR, it is shiny and clean, the connector is tight and free of oil.
I removed and inspected the throttle pedal, it's seems clean and operational. It only has the cylinder contrib codes cold, and it is usually only one cylinder, that cylinder changes, first it was 8 a couple of times, then 3, then 2, now 7. Which injector could be bad and there is no smoke.
I guess the biggie here is to get the throttle to stop sticking. It runs better everyday, but the sticking could be dangerous. The rough running cold cold just be this engines normal. The light shudder at idle goes in 3-5 second increments- light shudder-smooth-light shudder-smooth...
View 8 Replies
I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
View 6 Replies
I just started having a cold start problem with my '02 Excursion this fall and I'm at my wit's end trying to fix it. Truck starts fine above about 45 degrees and when it's warm. If I plug in the block heater it also starts fine in the cold. If it's not too cold I can eventually get it started by continuing to crank it. It blows white smoke while cranking and for a few seconds after it finally turns over. Smells like fuel. Runs rough for 30 sec after starting when it finally turns over. Definitely seems like glow plugs aren't working. This truck started no problem on GPs alone without plugging in down to -20 deg F before this year.
I started by cleaning all battery connections, including the two ground posts on the engine block, I replaced one bad battery (diagnosed by Autozone; other one was OK), I checked the resistance of the glow plugs (only a few years old with about 30k miles on them) through the connectors on the GP control module (all were about 1 ohm), and confirmed 12V at the power pins in the GP control module connectors. I then replaced the GP control module and the problem is still present. Battery voltage drops from about 12.6 V before I start the GP cycle to about 12V when I turn the key to "ON" and the GP light comes on. How much should the voltage drop when the GPs are on? What the heck else could be wrong??
View 14 Replies
I am intrigued by this engine and it's cold start issues so I am trying things out to see what works. If I plug it in it starts like summertime. If it's as cold as 30* out I run the glow plugs for two minutes and it starts without much effort and once running purrs like a kitten, no chug a lug, no romping, little smoke. When it gets down into the 20's I run the glow plugs for two two minute cycles, a little more cranking time but starts same as above. Down to 18* and I cycle the glow plugs twice for two minutes and it cranks, tries to start but won't. Key off, back on for two more minutes and it starts right up like a warm summer day. It hasn't been colder than 18* here this year so this is the end of my report for now. I haven't taken the time to check the glow plugs which is on my list but this summer it'll get done.
View 14 Replies
My truck has been having this issue pretty much since I have had it, but it seems to be getting worse, or so I think.
When the truck is cold, it does not want to move very well. Like it's missing, and it does this until it gets warmer. Also, I have puffs of blue smoke come out the tailpipe when this occurs with it cold.
Injectors? Injector o-rings? Stiction?
FICM volts are good at 46.5v-48v when cranking.
View 6 Replies
Well.. my truck has been running great for the past few years. This morning I went to start it and all it does is cranks and cranks.. no start not even a sputter.. I use the torque app and noticed the HPOP was over 900 psi during cranking and ICP volts were .8 volts. FICM was 48.5 and around 47 during cranking. I even unplugged the ICP connector and got the same results.. just cranks and no start. i noticed while it cranks i don't get any white "smoke" coming out of the tail pipe I even sniffed in there and I don't smell any diesel at all.
I pulled the upper fuel filter and it is full of fuel, the fuel pump does its normal buzzing when the key is turned on. I even checked the emergency shut off switch for the fuel pump and it was fine. At the moment I am charging both batteries... they were draining because of all the cranking. I think I will check the FICM with a multi meter when the batteries are good and charged.. Seems weird to be running fine with no hints of issues then all of a sudden its dead.
View 14 Replies
Have a 2004 f250 that is having issues. Once the truck is started the idle goes from normal to loud almost sounds like its going to stall. A few weeks back the same happened when i was on a red light. It choked almost to where it was going to die. I accelerated when light turned green and would not move at all. I had to literally use full throttle to get out the road at about 5 mph. I pulled in to a gas station and fueled up as i had a quarter of diesel left and it stopped the rough idle and power starvation once i started the truck up again. It sees like this time its getting more persistent... FML AND THESE 6.0 problems
View 9 Replies
