Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Drive Shaft Making Clicking Noise?
Apr 16, 2012
My buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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I posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
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I've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
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I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
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2003 f350 6.0 diesel, driving on the freeway at 70 mph, all instrumentation went off, the radio went off, the engine was still running fine. While pulling off on the off ramp, when the speed was about 20 mph the rear end jumped up as if the transmission was trying to go into reverse. After traveling about 4 miles at about 15 mph the rear end jumped up about 6 inches and the drive shaft pulled out of the spline and drove itself into the pavement. Why this happened. I have put two new batteries and an alternator in the truck and it has been fine every since, but I am still concerned it may happen again. The truck has a 6 inch lift on it.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 Turbo Diesel I recently purchased. I am hearing a noise when accelerating from a stop. The only time I'm hearing it is when the window is down. The noise sounds like someone is tapping an aluminum pop can. It is easily reproducible as well. I decided to get under the truck and have my wife toggle the transmission from park to reverse. They noise does not occur unless one foot is placed on the brake and the accelerator is lightly pressed. (My wife had the opportunity to run me over and claim it as an accident but lucky me she decided not too). Below is a video. I had a hard time locating the noise. It sounds like it may be coming from the exhaust or drive shaft. The drive shaft does not spin when toggling from reverse to drive but the ticking noise can be simulated and heard when lightly pressing the gas while holding the brake. Something need lubed somewhere?
Clicking noise - YouTube ....
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Near the end of a 5 hour drive on Christmas day my check engine light came on. I read the code: P0401. I got it into the dealer this week and was told it was a blocked EGR cooler. The truck has 66k miles. Lucky for me, I have the extended warranty! They replaced a "tube assembly". I sure hope this is not something that is going to repeat. I would hate to pay for this repair in the future. They had the truck 2 days. Is this a common problem or am I just "lucky"?
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My folding mirror on the drivers side folds out good but when bringing it back there is a clicking sound and it doesn't move, a slight pull on it and it comes back ok. 2011 F350 SD.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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What Spicer Part #s for the rear u-joints would be? I'm not nailing down the right one. I keep finding numerous ones, 1410, 1350, 5-160....
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a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
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I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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I've got a noise that I just can't find. Have replaced a bunch of stuff trying to eliminate this sound.. steering pump, both front wheel bearings, new pads up front, both caliper brackets and pins. Did a new turbo, verified the new pump is not air bound, brakes work, no noise with wheels up, lock to lock, pumping brakes the whole time.
Sound is prominent at 1400 RPM, does go up with RPM, seems sometimes to follow a steer to the right. When I shut down, not at full temp a clunk happens, like a mechanical stop. That clunk is less noticed once up to temp and it really started after the steering pump. Sparky came over, listened with a probe, says it's not the pump, my BIL and a close friend say the same thing.
Today, when I nailed it, rpm came on hard, tires smoked and when I let off quick, truck died, like something held the belt. It just slowed and died, restarted immediately.
Shawn listened to the transmission, says he heard nothing there either but did hear something above that near the back of the motor.
IPR is spot on 21.8%, ICPV is .80-.82 and [email protected] However, it has been dropping to lower numbers recently, saw 15.4% and it often sits near 19.4%-20.4% for periods of time. Tap the throttle, right back to 21.8%.
I'm at a loss. I've tested everything I can think of. I can power brake the truck, no trans slippage, it spins the tires easily around 10lbs boost. The A/C seems low on the charge, it is freezing the dehydrator and I added some freon, 18oz can, the clutch is not frozen. Turn it off, compressor stops spinning like it's supposed to. The tensioners are not frozen or squealing, water pump is not making noise, temp is 200 on the dot. Trans is full, no burned smell. Motor oil is fresh, filters clean.
It sounds like a grinding noise and I'm about to tear the cover off the HPOP. I'm at 150k now and know it will need replaced soon, I've spent $2500 in the last 2 weeks, but before I tear it apart......
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One of the many things that impresses me about the 6.7 is how well it lugs...... it'll run right down to near 1,000 rpm in 6th gear and stay there till it absolutely has to shift. Like a diesel should. Well, recently, and now more frequently my truck is making some strange noises when it lugs down. It'll mainly do it if I'm towing light, like my flat trailer empty, or maybe if I have a decent load in the bed. But occasionally it'll do it empty. As soon as it lugs down low to 1,000-1,200 and pulls there for a few seconds you'll hear a couple squeaks, then a kinda chugchugchugchug noise. It immediately quits if you let off or make it shift down. It sounds like a turbo-related noise, but I don't really know. Truck only has 9k miles on it. I just know this is one of those things I'll take it back to the dealer and they'll give me the ol "we can't duplicate the problem here." What it could be?
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I have a 2003 6.0l... When I first bought truck, seemed to run fine. Since then truck has broke down on me once. I took it on a six hour drive, and couldn't turn vehicle off, because if so, truck wouldn't start back up until cool. After getting to my destination, fans seemed very loud every time I pressed pedal, and seemed very sluggish. Drove it a couple days and boost was low and fans continued to sound like they werre engaging even when I first started truck for the day. Had truck towed to shop, because it cut off on me when driving.
At shop : Truck had air filter, water in fuel sensor, o-ring for draining plug, new ICP sensor and harness, and HFCM cleaned up as it was filled with gunk.
After shop : Fans quit being so loud, but have not had near the boost I had before issues started. Truck struggles to go from stop, and around 15 psi boost gauge starts shaking erratically. Also, I have been losing coolant in a short period of time, and can't see any leak coming from anywhere, and also my radiator has been making a sloshing/gurgling noise and it will stop, then come back all within bout ten seconds. And I guess while I'm writing, I should mention the bucking after it downshifts in about third or fourth gear giving it gas makes the truck buck until the RPMs are above 2000 or it upshifts or downshifts, and at an idle seems to miss until warm.
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2005 ford f250 6.0 Started making this noise from front about a month ago, can't figure out what it is. Only happens when letting off accelerator or changing from P - D. The truck acts normal, seems to be louder when the truck is warm.
[URL] .....
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I have used this forum to look up everything I've needed to since I bought my 05 F250 FX4 6.0 brand new. I was pulling our brand new camper in 100* heat. I began to hear a clicking from the truck from the engine compartment that would be right by the turbo. My engine started overheating, but I had no smoke (black or white). The engine cooled down after I was done climbing the hills, but I had feathering from by the air cleaner and the clicking/chirping was still present.
I pulled over to let the truck cool and checked my coolant reservoir. While pulling over, I lost accelerator pedal responsiveness. The turbo was also engaging a lot. I pulled over. Put the truck in park, but left it idling. As I was looking around under the hood, the truck died. I have not been able to start it. (This all happened Saturday). The truck is 20 miles from home, and I've been out tinkering every day. Here is what I know:
1) I have 48 volts to the FICM.
2) I have tried to start it early in the morning and in the evening when temperatures were low.
3) When I crank, I do get oil pressure from the instrument cluster.
4) The oil level is at the correct markings on the dip stick.
5) Using my scanguage II, I have verified an IPR reading of 14.8. As I crank, it goes up to 84.7. My ICP reading is all over the place. It always gets to above 500, yet it with the key off - engine off, I get a reading higher than zero. With the key-on I go from 300 to 500 and to over 1000 with out the think even hinting at starting.
6) I have oil in the oil filter housing.
7) I have fuel in the upper fuel filter housing bowl.
8)The batteries and alternator have all passed load testing.
9)I tried to start the truck with the ICP disconnected, and didn't have any luck.
10) I have no codes set or pending.
I am at a loss. I don't want to start throwing $$ at various parts.
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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