My folding mirror on the drivers side folds out good but when bringing it back there is a clicking sound and it doesn't move, a slight pull on it and it comes back ok. 2011 F350 SD.
View 7 RepliesHaving issues with their mirrors folding in? One of mine makes a popping sound and will not fold in or out. I can hear the motor running, sounds like a gear is out of alignment. Have tried to reposition manually with no luck. Is there a rebuild kit for the internals or will I need the entire mirror assembly?
View 14 RepliesThe mirror on the passenger side is not folding in/out anymore. It happened a few times before but only for a very brief period... it's now been 5 days... so I am thinking it's dead...
View 3 RepliesMy buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 6.7 Turbo Diesel I recently purchased. I am hearing a noise when accelerating from a stop. The only time I'm hearing it is when the window is down. The noise sounds like someone is tapping an aluminum pop can. It is easily reproducible as well. I decided to get under the truck and have my wife toggle the transmission from park to reverse. They noise does not occur unless one foot is placed on the brake and the accelerator is lightly pressed. (My wife had the opportunity to run me over and claim it as an accident but lucky me she decided not too). Below is a video. I had a hard time locating the noise. It sounds like it may be coming from the exhaust or drive shaft. The drive shaft does not spin when toggling from reverse to drive but the ticking noise can be simulated and heard when lightly pressing the gas while holding the brake. Something need lubed somewhere?
Clicking noise - YouTube ....
Still learning about my 2006 F-350 dually.
I've been hearing a clicking sound when I hit the brakes. Not a thump or a growl, just a metallic click. I'm wondering if it's the pads or that retaining clip or possibly the ball joints. New brakes & rotors this past fall. I just started hearing it now that I can drive with the windows down. Can't hear or feel anything with the windows up.
So I figured I would crawl under her today and grease up the ball joints, Pittman arm and whatever other grease fittings I see. Well, I don't see any? I have a few on my 7.3L's but I don't see any on the front end of my 6.0L.
What would be causing this clicking sound coming from my front passenger wheel? Wheel bearing? It ONLY clicks when turning left.
[URL] ....
I am lost on what I need to do with my 2005 6.0. Last summer it started giving me trouble once in a while starting. I turn the key on and wait for the wait to start light to go out. When it goes out, turn the key and it starts, most of the time. Last summer I went to start it the same way, only it cranked and did not start. I turned the key off, back on and cycled the wait to start light again and turned to the start position, it started right up. Whenever it would act up I just turn the key off then back on and it starts right up. Usually on the second try, but lately it has taken 3 or more tries. I am not finding any real pattern to when it wont start.
When it does not start I can crank on the starter until the battery dies and it wont even think about starting. Turn the key off and back on, it will start.
Another thing I have noticed, when I crank the engine I can hear a clicking from under the hood right before it starts. I think it must have something to do with the injectors. I will crank the engine a few seconds, hear the clicking then it starts. If I don't hear the clicking it will not start, so when it doesn't want to start I also do not hear the clicking sound.
The other day I started it, drove 5 or 6 blocks and shut it off. After 20 minutes or so went to leave. I had to cycle the key 4 or 5 times off and back on before it decided to start. It is getting worse, doing it more frequently, and taking several times of key off and back on to get it going. Where should I start looking to find this problem?
Just went out this morning to start my 2011 F350 diesel and the starter is doing a "chugging" sound. Not spinning the starter at all. Just turned 60,000 miles last week and this is the very first issue that I have had with the truck.
I have put a trickle charger on the battery on the drivers side, and plan to leave it on for an hour or so.
There's a pump or ?? I'm not sure . Our "11 6.7 is making whining vibrating sound coming off passenger side , front of valve cover . Not sure what this is . Nothing I'm searching is telling me n I'm not best with diesels .
View 3 RepliesI got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didn't have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines, harness, pump, sending unit , tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to the garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they won't work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they won't touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So i go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it won't budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now.
I got a 2005 f350 6.0 deleted and studded with air dog 2 4g pump, 125k miles. It started running rough then just died all within a few miles tuner showed code for injector 6 and ficm towed into ford dealer didnt have time to mess with it. They said ficm was bad had them replaced it then they said i need whole new fuel system lines,harness,pump,sending unit ,tank the whole 9 yrds. Which i thought was uncalled for so i called up airdog which system i had on there and they laughed and said ford garage is full of bs that they will upgrade my pump to the 4g and new harness.
So I took that stuff to garage had them swap it out and now they said come get the truck they wont work on it anymore that now it needs 3 injectors and they wont touch it with aftermarket fuel system on it. So I go to drive it home and it starts but runs rough and u can hold it to the floor and it wont budge bearly idles up and builds no boost my tuner is showing injector 2,3,4 now which wasn't a problem before i took it into the garage. So im not sure what happened to cause this all to happen but before i sink any more money into it is the 3 injectors enough cause to make it not build boost now .
2007 F250SD, R/H power mirror with LED lights no work. All other lights and L/H mirror work fine. Checked the fuse in passenger compartment, it's good. Where to start looking?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
View 2 RepliesHow to disassemble the power fold mirrors on my 2011 F250.
The mirrors work in every way except they will not fold in or out. You can hear the motor start but then stops right away. It does not sound like the gear is stripped just that the motor is stuck some home. It happened to both mirrors about the same time.
I was going to take one apart and see if there is a issue. I can't see there being a electrical issue, but maybe, since the driver side starts then stops within 1 second. It's hard to tell about the passenger side since the switch is on the drivers side.
My truck has done this since I got it and it's pretty damn annoying. While at idle the rear view mirror vibrates slightly and drives me nuts. If you give it any gas at all it stops. Like I said its super slight but it's enough to notice for sure and makes stuff look blurry if your looking through it.
View 5 RepliesBeen a few months since I was on here. Posting this on behalf of my dad who just bought a 2012 F150 KR.
The truck he bought is a Max tow setup vehicle and it is quite beautiful. He loves everything about it so far except for the huge, non-power folding mirrors.
The question is, can he get these swapped out with a new set of power folding ones that are also tow mirrors?
I have a 2003 f250 and I am unable to rotate the hubs from automatic. I have removed them and while I had them apart, I was still unable to rotate the selector. It wouldn't turn even with a crescent wrench putting pressure on it. I repacked them with grease and reinstalled and they still work when in 4 wheel drive. I am just concerned that when the vacuum does go out, I will not get the hubs to manually lock in.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2006 F350 4x4 dually (6.0 diesel obviously) automatic. It's got 200kml on it and a second motor (found the sticker on the valve cover). I just bought it a month ago and have only driven it like 100-150 miles. Previous owner imported it to Finland 3 years ago, but never registered and only drove it like 500-1000 miles (with temporary plates to carry his racer few times). Original owner was a company in Southern Midwest that had some equipment on back. (It's was sold as a chassis cab new.)
Now I was getting the truck tested for registration yesterday. Drove it there 30 miles (country roads and highways), no problems. Then we had to do the smog-test, which is a bitch. They rev the engine to limiter (4200rpm) couple of times and measure the particles flying out. Passed it flying colors, but when trying to pull out the transmission wont engage!
Shifter linkage ok. Oil in tranny clear and plenty. When I put on R or D the engine RMP rises very slightly (maybe 50-100 rpm) and then settles back. But nothing else happens.
Luckily got a friend with large flatbed that we used to carry my baby home. But now I don't know where to start... ...well, I do have couple of ideas what could be broken. Specially if there's something simpler than dropping the whole tranny out (it's HEAVY and it's cold&wet out there) and rebuilding the whole damn thing.
Previous owner told he had some shifting issues couple of years ago (maybe 500 miles ago) and they "rebuilt" the tranny. He DID replace the hydraulic "logic board" and solenoids + new packs while at it. Naturally new filter & oil too. He said the torque converter was "tested" to be in good condition and they used the old one. I can tell the tranny has been out of the truck and the seller felt legit (a car guy too).
Couldn't make it 10,000 miles........without a failure.
My driver's side mirror finally broke. It will no longer power fold. It's been slowly dying over the last few weeks, getting slower and slower. Now it won't move on it's own and the electric motor hardly makes any noise/effort trying to move the mirror.
I would assume that should be replaced under warranty but who knows... We'll see what service says about it tomorrow.
I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.