Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 F250 Rear Is 3 Inch Higher On Passenger Side
Dec 24, 2014
I have a 2011 f250 crew cab lariat that actually sits about 3" higher on the passenger side in the rear. I never noticed until I put some 4" pro comp blocks on the rear. I measured before and the rear left was 40" and right was 41-3/4". Now the drivers side rear is 42" and rear passenger side is 45"? I have looked at the blocks to make sure they are seated properly and everything is installed correct so what gives? What could be causing this. I bought the truck with 99k miles and now it's at 130k miles. I do tow a small cargo trailer sometimes but it is only about 3k lbs. Now I am thinking of buying some new leaf springs to see if that corrects the problem.
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I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
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Got stuck, noticed when in four wheel drive only the front passenger side and rear passenger side was pulling. Is that normal? Or should both fronts be pulling?
2011 f350 dually 4x4 6.7.....
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I purchased a 2011 350 crew cab lariat 6.7 diesel last week. That night i noticed that the passenger side map light was considerably dimmer than the drive side. Had to go back to the dealership 2 days later anyways to get a second key made. Showed the tech the light and he gave me 2 new bulbs to replace both lights with. Both were great for about a week but i noticed the passenger side has once again become dim....
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Have a 2012 F250 4x4. Have read many posts about different lifts etc. I don't want to go real big but I would like to go to a larger tire than the stock Michelins.
On a F250, done a 2 inch front leveling kit and switched out the rear blocks to F350 blocks. Assuming I wanted to put new shocks on with this change, what level kit and what adjustable track bar (from what i've read this is pretty much required).
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I have to change out the inner seals on my front axle on my 04 f250 6.0 4x4. was wondering what the torch spects are for the bolts on the end caps and the torch spects on the differential cover? I already have the passenger side axle out. was changing my ball joints on that side when I noticed a bunch of oil in the axle case and on the hub knuckle. Also, this might be a long shot but is there any way to change the inner seal on the drivers side without taking out the axle on that side? I have the passenger out and if I could get away without pulling the driver side that would be awesome.
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There's a pump or ?? I'm not sure . Our "11 6.7 is making whining vibrating sound coming off passenger side , front of valve cover . Not sure what this is . Nothing I'm searching is telling me n I'm not best with diesels .
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I have a oil leak that I can't seem to find it appears to be leaking down above the passenger side valve cover and then goes under the engine cover. I don't notice much oil in the valley. This is a 2011 f250 6.7 with 116000 miles on it. I have had no other problems with this truck. Could this be the turbo lines? I am on a RV trip several hundred miles from home so I have very limited tools. The leak doesn't appear to be bad at this point the valve cover is wet with a small drip but it's only in the middle. I just changed my oil prior to the trip when I noticed the leak. I did have a leak on the new filter but a new filter fixed that but still have this one higher up.
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I have a 2006 F250 with the rear driver side window that goes down but not up. I bought a new regulator and hooked it up to power before going through the trouble of removing the old one. It traveled down and wouldn't go up. The switch is working because I have power to it and thru it. What it might be?
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Fixing issues with my truck. I just ordered some latex surgical tubing and am getting ready to fix the rattling noise in my rear door by using the Epic's Door Seal Mod. Hopefully this will take care of that issue.
One more annoying noise though. Has there been any fixes to the buzzing window noise that is coming from the front passenger side. If the wind is blowing right and I'm running over 50mph, at times get a loud buzzing noise and really bugs me. Something is vibrating and at first i thought i had a speaker going out but found out that wasn't it.
I've called my dealer and informed them of this and asked if they've heard of this but of course they haven't and this usually means the won't do anything besides look for recalls or something. I have the noise recorded and scheduled an appointment with my Ford Dealer but again, they won't do anything most likely.
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ok, its been 9-10 months now, and i have only 3500 miles on my gx.just looked at the back wheel wells.
The left side of the truck in the back is sitting about 1.5 inchs higher than the right rear? I measured the distance between the rims and the edge of the panel in the back. I am baffled. I raised it, lowered it, and still unequal height. Its going to the dealer on wednesday.
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I have a mkvi gti with all stock suspension except rear sway bar. And I'm right about to order driver gear springs. But have a question about suspension. My rear driver side of the car sits about half inch lower then then rear passenger side on a flat ground. Would this be caused by springs? Or struts? Or what. Planning on ordering the driver gear springs but what the real problem is. I want the driver gear so I'm a bit lowered but not crazy low since the roads in my home town are awful and my street I have to do figure 8's all the way down it to not hit a pot hole.
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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Purchased 2011 3 weeks ago. Due to not paying attention, put gas in diesel. Had tank dropped and drained but after reassembly, fuel gauge inop. When turn ignition switch on, get normal sweep of all dash gauges but fuel gauge does not read. 2nd tech says sender okay, must be gauge. Dealer ssays if it sweeps, it isn't the gauge. 011 F250 6.7L.....
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2011 F250 6.7 Lariot Fx4. My factory Trailor mirrors won't extend. When I push the button it just gives me two chimes. The power fold and other options work, just not the extend. Not sure but don't think it's a fuse since everything else works.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
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2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
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I'm starting to get an intermittent CEL for P2074 ("Manifold Absolute Pressure/Mass Air Flow - Throttle Position Correlation at Higher Load"). It first came on Saturday halfway into a 4 hour drive (Not towing, just driving 75mph-80mph on the freeway). I cleared the code and restarted the truck and it immediately came back on. About a half hour later I stopped for fuel, cleared the code, and it stayed off for the rest of the trip.
Got into the truck today and drove it for 10 minutes (driving around town) and it came back on. Cleared the code and restarted the truck, drove it for about a hour and it never came back on. The truck is running and driving just fine.
The truck is a 2011 F-250, all stock (except for a AFE Cold air intake that's been on the truck for a while now). The truck has about 98,000 miles.
From what I've read on other posts, it might just be a mass air flow sensor? Should I just replace that myself, or pay the $100 extended warranty deductible and take it into Ford?
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We got "bad" gas in Feb, 2016, had to replace entire fuel system. Haven't driven the truck but 4000 miles. Last week, she started spitting and sputtering and lost power. We could see fuel pouring out. NO CEL. Towed (AAA has paid for itself several times over with this truck) to dealer that replaced the fuel system, still waiting to hear from them. Does this sound like it should be under the warranty for the work they did? We have averaged a huge repair bill about every 3-4 months on this truck, 2011 F250 Lariat, 8cyl, 6.7L, since we bought it 2 years ago.
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Noticed oil on the underside of the engine last oil change, took to Ford dealer for repair under extended warranty. Got a call back today, stating the the oil leak is coming from a injector on the drivers side, and that the injector seals is not covered under warranty. I'm having an issue understanding that oil leaking out from around the injector is not covered under a power train warranty.
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