Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2016 - Coolant Slowly Going Down / No Longer Visible In Clear Section
Apr 11, 2016
When I got my 2016 back at the end of last October, the pink coolant in the main degas bottle was just visible in the clear top half of the bottle. By the time 5k miles rolled around, the coolant was no longer visible in the clear section. At oil change time, the dealer "topped" it, resulting in it being visible in the tank again. 3k miles later, the coolant has disappeared below the clear part of the bottle again. What gives? The secondary bottle level has not budged. Its clearly not losing a lot, but it is definitely going down slightly.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
My 2003 6.0 has a coolant leak. It leaks slowly while not running and more quickly while running. I have about an 8 mile drive to work every day, I can make it there and back without having to add coolant but I'm cutting it pretty close by the time I get home. In short I go from the max fill line to bone dry in about 24 hours.
With the truck running I can see water getting slung around all over the front of the engine but the majority of it seems to be coming from around the two larger pulleys in the middle. I've read that this can either be the crankshaft seal or the water pump, any way to know for sure? Any other possibilities?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2013 F250 6.7 w/ 96000. I ran over a log and tore the rear section of the exhaust. I was told to buy the OEM version or do the DPF/EGR Delete.
I don't have a lot of $$$$, so which way do I go. Whats the least expensive Delete.
View 14 Replies
Dealer forgot to reset oil life warning oil change. I cleared it in the "settings" but then "oil filter" and "fuel filter" warnings came in and won't clear. How do I get rid of them?
View 3 Replies
Bought a 2011 F250 with P1635 code. It has 35x12.50 tires my Sct x4 tuner only goes up to 34 inch tires. Im new to the 6.7 diesel game previously had 6.0 and want to hear from yall what to do.
View 1 Replies
I have an 04 F2 50 with 6.0 with approximately 225,000 miles. I filled up with gas last Wednesday and every so often the truck will start running really rough and then it will clear up. Is it possible to of gotten some bad gas if so what products are out there to clear that up. Could've been injector going bad what are the best products for cleaning injectors. No check engine light on, gauges are good, nothing different on the scan gauge.
View 3 Replies
Can I safely assume that the constant drip of non-odorous clear liquid from the engine is from the a/c? It comes down pretty heavy from near the front right tire, about one drop per 2 seconds from what I saw.
View 4 Replies
A little over a year I had my rear outer wheels replaced due to corrosion under the clear coat around the valve stems, 15K miles
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Service experience with a new to me dealer
Next week another pair are being installed for the same issue, 31K miles.
View 14 Replies
So we have a van with the 6.0. It has a little over 100,000 miles. It has started to take longer to up shift. The dealer ( I know. but I know my service guy and he has done well in the past ) says we need to do injectors and fuel regulator plus a host of small parts to do the job. about 8 grand or so of work. Everything on the trans checks out and is supposed to be in perfect order. Truck goes well once up to speed but its getting the is the problem. So its parked so we don,t melt an injector.
View 3 Replies
Ac is no longer blowing cold air and was thinking about trying a can of ac pro on her. However, I have heard some pretty bad stories about people killing their compressors and overcharging the system. Is it not worth the risk.
View 7 Replies
It's -15f today. I have been wanting to make a cold start video for a while. Today seemed like a great day to make one.
A little longer crank than when i plug it in, but I think it started pretty good.
[URL]
View 4 Replies
Truck was starting good, then slowly got harder to start. Now it will not start. I do not know what to check next.
HPOP 3700
ipr 46
FICM 48V
rpm sounds good.
Injector pulse 0. not sure if I have torque app set up correctly for that one.
No smoke and I pulled the top fuel filter and drained the fuel. took about 3 seconds to fill the housing with fuel.
Air filter gauge says it is good.
Still checking where to go.
View 5 Replies
I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
View 14 Replies
Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
View 9 Replies
This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
View 11 Replies
OK so I have a 2010 6.4 fully deleted. I have noticed that after driving my truck and parking it there is a strong coolant odor but no steam or visible leaks. the truck runs as good as ever and I can't seem to find the source.
View 5 Replies
Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
View 7 Replies
I have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
View 10 Replies
I've had my 6.0 for 2.5 years now and got really acquainted with what makes what noise, and how long starts took etc. recently this morning, i had a longer start, longer than a normal long start (4-5 seconds). Felt too long to me, but it started and didn't turn it off to try again. Got to my destination, turn the truck off and brough up ICP, FICM, FICM SYNC and cranked and watched.
After 1 second ICP jumped to 600 then to 770 and 2-3 seconds later FICM sync finally read 1 and it fired. What can be causing the sync to take so long? I have had intermittent no starts before, maybe 4 in the 2.5 years i've had it and every time i have pushed on the fuse blocks by the driver batteries, and also pushed on the FICM connections to make sure everything was okay. That seemed to always work.. But no amount of pushing on them are solving the long start that is happening...
View 3 Replies
I have a 2006 f250 6.0 203,00 miles. At 196,000 miles turbo went out, bought power max turbo, redid head gaskets with studs, had heads shaved flat, replace oil cooler with ford part, egr delete, custom tune, aftermarekt 48 Volt FICM.
Truck ran great until 1 day didn't start. had to let truck cool down and then it stared oil pressure was only going to 350psi. drove home fine, shut it off and wonted start hot. drove it a few times after that just let truck idle. Then it started to crank longer when cold. Replaced dummy plug and stand pipe on drivers side only. Then truck was ok for a few drives then started to get a studer sometimes when idling. It got worse then was getting a misfire cyl 1 then, truck died 1 day turning around and would only build a 200 psi.
Replaced stand pipe and dummy plug on passenger side, and IPR, now getting misfire on cyl 8 and P2284, truck runs like crap, bad idle, rpms weird/gas pedal. idle is higher than it should be. when truck is first started shacks very bad, engine very nosiey. ICP 1046 psi(1.27Volts)Desired 637.9, idle and ipr 14.84, truck idles ok, when u punch gas revs up and comes back down, misfire gets worse with rpm.
Then icp goes to 870(2.23 Volts)Desired 870 and doesn't change when getting on the gas and ipr 32.42, punch it and rpms go up more then come back down. Truck starts to shake again. Could running it for so long with bad oil pressure or to much air wreak the injectors? When cold can shut off injector 7 or 8 doesn't change idle like all others do. Once warm 7 or 8 does make a small change in idle. If i command ipr to 20% idles fine, but icp no change from 32.42% to 20%...
View 1 Replies
I have a 2011 in the shop for a fuel leak. Truck has 208,000 miles on it. Leaking fuel into the valley. I took the upper and lower intake off and cleaned all the fuel up so I could see and with the key on there is fuel coming out from the bottom of the CP4 area where it mounts to the front cover. Looks like there is an o-ring between the front cover and the CP4 but wouldn't that o-ring be for sealing oil and not fuel? I'm confused as to how this works. Truck runs great with no check engine light. It's not a fast leak but a drip drip drip from the bottom of the engine once it fills up the valley enough to run off the back of the engine.
View 14 Replies
