Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Contaminated Coolant After Service
Sep 29, 2014
Got my radiator replaced at 63000 miles with new coolant. Did my first coolant test today at 70000 miles and the coolant is showing it is contaminated. I have been testing the coolant myself with the Rotund test kit and this is the first time it has come back as contaminated. Tested it twice once from degas bottle and once from the bottom drain. Same result both times. Coincidence that it is after service?
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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On a 300 mile round trip yesterday the service engine icon came on and stayed on. This happened once before last December after I bought my used 012 250 6.7. I took it back to the ford place and a mechanic cleared it on the gauges. This truck has correct oil and fluid levels. How to clear? It has been 4000 miles since they changed the oil and filters an I want to go a couple more K miles before I change it myself...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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A couple of weeks ago I got a service engine soon light and it turns out that the egr cooler core was bad. I had it replaced this week under warranty but now this has me thinking that maybe in the long run I would be better off to tune the truck. I had not even considered it until now, but this is a truck that I plan on keeping and I think that all of this emissions crap is shortening the life expectancy of the truck, at least without dumping money into it on a regular basis. Would this have been caused by anything that I have done? Am I not driving the truck hard enough maybe?
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my 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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I am having a heck of a time finding this coolant leak. It drips off the power steering pump. I replaced the upper radiator hose and the heater "y" hose that goes to the bottom of the Degas bottle. I recently replaced the lower radiator hose as well. So the truck runs normal. When the system is under pressure I do not see any leaks. But after the engine is completely cold it starts leaking a small puddle of coolant. Its appears to be coming from the power steering pump. But I am sure its something above or near it. This is on my 2005 Excursion with a 6.0. Can the water pump be going bad and leaking this direction. I would expect a water pump to leak straight down the middle of the engine. What to look for? The thermostat seal stays dry. but it has to be in that area. What is really messing with me is. When it is hot and pressured up It does not seem to leak. Only after it has been sitting for hours and cools off..........What the heck!
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I have a new(and flushed) oil cooler and new thermostat and my coolant and oil temps never go above 190. They are always within 3 degrees at most but is this actually losing fuel mileage? I thought these were good numbers, could be wrong though.
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1st f250. The coolant is a little low and wanted to add some to it but I can not get the cap off. It will spin and spin either way I turn it. I've tried pulling up and pushing down on it and no results.
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My coolant cap is stuck and won't come off? How can I get it off?
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I am looking for some insight on an issue before I lose sleep over head gaskets. Headed out today in the truck, and no heat whatsoever. Im thinking maybe a vacuum issue, but 4wd (esof) and all vents move just fine. About 10 miles in I over heated at 236 ect. After cracking the coolant cap there was no coolant. I havent actively monitored it but last i checked was fine.
The exhaust does not smell sweet and I see no puddles or any evidence of coolant splatter before today when i refilled it today. There was some tonight but im thinking that's from me spilling some today. Egr is also blocked off. I need the truck soon for plowing so need this resolved asap.
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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New 6.0 owner having some issues. I have read just about everything I can find on the ECT/EOT problem.
208K on it, its been studded, running a full banks system. Factory size tires. Since buying it I have drained and flushed with distilled 4 times before new ELC coolant (system looks very clean, no debris found at all), T6 oil change and cleaned the air filter.
I am having a large delta on ECT and EOT. Here's some data from today's run. There is a lot of it. Readings from every minute.
Ambient Temp 118 today, took it for a run up the highway cruised north at 65 mph and back south at 75mph. I was driving on Saturday at 75mph and got the wrench light for excessive delta with 232 degree EOT.
45mph on the way to the Freeway- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
65mph after accelerating lightly- ECT 197.6, EOT 216.4
10 miles later, flat 65mph cruise set, it maintained a reasonable temp hold and reached max of ECT 199.4, EOT 218.7
After 2 minutes of coasting down off-ramp and sitting at a light- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.5
after reaching 75MPH moderately- ECT 201.2, EOT 216.5
1 mile later, holding 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 220.2
2 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 224.6
3 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 225.2
4 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 226.4
5 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 227.3
6 miles at 75mph- ECT 204.8, EOT 228.2
7 miles at 75mph- ECT 206.6, EOT 228.5
8 miles at 75mph - ECT 208.4, EOT 231.0
At this point I dropped cruised and coasted to the next exit, a mile down.
After coasting to exit and sitting for a minute- ECT 201.2, EOT 221.0
After a mile at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 221.6
2 miles at 45mph, lightly on throttle- ECT 204.8, EOT 221.0
After idling stopped for a few minutes- ECT 195.8, EOT 213.8
Driving again lightly at 45mph- ECT 203.0, EOT 211.5
Am I just ignoring the obvious oil cooler issue or is this a water pump, etc? I changed out the thermostat again for another motorcraft unit after Saturdays hot run. I swear it did not run this hot when I got it... but I question if they were running nearly 100% water in the system. What EGR cooler there is, if there is a way to tell without disassembly?
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I have a 2007 F350 with 140,000 miles. I just received my first oil analysis from Blackstone and it shows a small amount of coolant in the oil (296ppm Potassium, 30ppm Sodium). Iron at 47ppm and Lead at 12ppm are elevated as well. This is at the end of a 5000 mile oil change.
I have no oil analysis history to say if this has been occurring for any length of time, and have no runnability issues. Oil/coolant temp delta is 8-10F unless towing, and I have seen no coolant loss since replacing the degas bottle a couple of months ago.
Where to look first. It seems most oil/coolant encounters result in the oil going into the coolant, not the other way around. I haven't done an analysis, but have not seen any oil residue in the degas bottle.
BTW, no coolant shows up on the dipstick either, so it is a small leak at best.
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I recently noticed a small bead of coolant on the driver's side of my tie rod coupled with low primary coolant level, so I took it to the dealer expecting to face a radiator issue (50k miles). Instead they said that the lower radiator hose was leaking and recommended replacement. Thinking that we were still headed down the radiator path, I had them do the job.
Upon inspecting the removed hose, I could find no obvious fault, so I inquired further. They clarified that it was the seal which had failed (I guess replacing the entire hose is the fix for this?), that it was contaminants that build up in the coolant which attack the seals, and that I should expect it to happen again if I don't flush the coolant every 10,000 miles (yes, ten thousand).
I asked if he meant to say that I should check the 'coolant additive level' every 10k (instead of 15k) and he again stated that a full flush was necessary every 10k miles and that it was a "maintenance intensive engine." This can't be right.
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I have an 04 f-350 that I did an EGR delete, new Ford oil cooler, new radiator (not ford), new thermostat (not ford), coolant filter, glow plugs and harness, MBRP theoretical 4in downpipe (was 3.5 to converter) flushed cooling system with lots of tap water before the delete, replaced coolant with Cat 1 ELC and distilled water, fresh T6 5W-40 and filter, several weeks ago. Was troubleshooting a wireing problem and found what looks like oil sludge in the degass bottle while under the hood.
Possible that while doing EGR delete I clipped a gasket? Truck runs great, no smoke out the tail pipe. There is what looks like about a cup floating on top the coolant. Oil level is down about a 1/2 quart and clean, no water in it. Where do I start looking?
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It's been pretty smooth sailing since I installed my BPD oil cooler a couple months ago, oil temps are great now. However, in the last month or so, since the outside temps have gotten hot, I'm noticing that my coolant temps seem to be a little higher than they should. I put a new Ford thermostat in it back in the fall when I flushed the coolant system and refilled with EC1 coolant. The temps I'm seeing range from 206 up to 222 and I have seen as high as 230 when I was going up a long grade on a hot day. This is not towing.
The fan does kick on like it should, or at least I think its working properly. When the temp gets to 210-212 I can hear the fan a little, when the temp gets to 219 I can really hear the fan. It usually cools it back down pretty quick unless I'm headed up a long grade. Am I wrong in thinking these temps are too high for a 192 degree stat? My worst fear of course is head gaskets even though I don't have any other HG symptoms. No coolant loss, no puking. What other things should I check first? A new thermostat would be easy enough but I don't know if that would be the issue or not.
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my 2006 6.0 will roll over 300,000 miles this week but today I was pulling a 24' pontoon boat that should only weigh a few thousand pounds from hot springs Ar where there are some small rolling hills and the outside temp was 70 degrees. I was driving between 55-60 most of the drive. On a few of the longer hills my eot got up to 220 with the eot trying to catch up.
On the down side it would fall to 185-190 and the eot would also follow. On about a 5 mile straight stretch the ect was 208 and eot 202. When I got home I opened the hood and I do have coolant puke around the degas bottle. After opening the cap there seemed to be a steam/smoke coming out of the degas bottle. There was still some coolant in the bottom but not a whole lot.
On my drive to work every day my delta is between 6-8 degrees with the ect between 188-194 depending on ambient temp. So does this sound like my head gaskets finally let go? Will them blowing raise the eot/ect when towing?
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My friend has an F450 with the 6.0, and discovered fuel in his coolant. I have the 7.3 in my truck, and know next to nothing about the 6.0. Can bad Injector sleeves cause this ? Is that the same as "seats" ? I am not up on my terminology. He thinks he needs new heads for his truck, but I don't agree.
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