Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Install 65 Gal Titan Tank Level Sensor Not Working?


Jan 8, 2013

Installed a 65 Gal Titan Tank the other day. I Finally got a chance to fill her up all the way.. well as much as i could.

My Level sensor is not functioning and I was only able to put in a total of 160 Liters when it should have been right around 246L.

My question is this : I need to syphon my tank now. Is there anything preventing me from doing that or will a 1/2 hose work?

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Slight Leak From Titan Fuel Tank

I've had the Titan fuel tank installed for about a month now and am loving the extra range, although this morning I walked by the truck and got a slight whiff of diesel by the fuel filler door. I pulled out the flashlight to take a look, and noticed a really small, faint trail of diesel fuel running down the driver's side of the tank near the rear strap.

I crawled under the truck to inspect it as best as I could in the driveway, feeling around the sender, filler, and vent tube connections, and didn't notice any obvious puddles of diesel. About the most I got was some dampness around the sender unit seal, but it wasn't much, and could even be residue from the fuel lines dripping during installation of the tank. Based on where the trail down the side of the tank has formed, my best guess is it's going to be a filler or vent tube hose clamp that I didn't get tight enough.

Unfortunately I just filled the tank up last night and am headed out camping for the weekend this morning. I followed all the install instructions exactly, making sure to check the torque on the sender unit seal four times before installing the tank back in the truck because I didn't want to deal with any leaks, so I really hope it's not that seal. I also filled the tank up to the brim right after install and crawled all around it a day or so later and noticed no dampness or leaks. Needless to say, I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank again and then potentially waiting on parts if something is defective. I'm waiting on a call back from Titan to get their advice.

Below are a couple pics of the weepage. Obviously not a huge leak, but something I want to get taken care of ASAP.

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Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Erratic Fuel Gauge - Level Would Register Full When Only Half A Tank Or So

I've been having a very erratic fuel gauge issue as of about 2 months ago. My fuel level would register full, when in fact I knew it only had 1/2 a tank or so. Then 5 minutes later it would be pegged on full. Under a 1/2 tank the gauge would read any where from 1/2 to empty from 1 minute to the next. So last week I decided to drop my tank and take a look. I was thinking maybe my fuel sender was broken, maybe a loose wire in the tank, or even that my float had dropped off in to the tank.

After dropping the tank, I removed the PK-Up and sending unit and everything was intact. I placed my ohm meter on the sending unit and it checked out fine. So I took the Pk-up and rolled back up underneath the truck and plugged it back in. I had my son turn the key on and off while I moved the float to different levels in order that it would register. It registered empty, 1/4/, 1/2, 3/4 and full just fine as I moved the float to those levels. If you leave the key in the run position and move the float, it won't register or better said, the in cab gauge will not adjust with the movement.

You have to turn the key off move the float and hold it there, then have your assistant turn the key on and the gauge will show the position that you've moved and held it at. I simply removed the plastic cover from the sending unit, and sprayed it down real good with electrical contact cleaner. I didn't scrub the copper contact area at all.

I was concerned that scrubbing might remove more than I wanted to, and really mess things up. I attached an Ohm meter and checked resistance thru out the float travel. All checked out good and I reinstalled it. So now my fuel gauge is working as it should be. I did make a video while I ohmed the Sender Unit thru it's travel, but for some reason it won't load.

[URL] ....

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I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.

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I finally received all the parts needed for installing my fuel pressure gauge, but I am wondering if I am going to need a schrader valve on my fuel pressure line going to the sending unit, or if I am going to be safe with just doing a 6 time cycle of the fuel pump like we do when we change out the fuel filters. Seems like that should work for getting the air out of the fuel lines, same concept I would think.

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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...

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Is there any tune out there that can erase it? For some reason my Edge Insight CTS2 sees the code, but my SCT X4 flash tuner doesn't see the P0488 code. I know people have discussed this topic several times, but after hours of reading through posts I never found any solution to this. All I need is a way to delete the code because I don't like having my CTS2 with a trouble code for something I did on purpose!

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I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.

Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.

Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.

Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good

Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge

Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service

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I recently noticed a small bead of coolant on the driver's side of my tie rod coupled with low primary coolant level, so I took it to the dealer expecting to face a radiator issue (50k miles). Instead they said that the lower radiator hose was leaking and recommended replacement. Thinking that we were still headed down the radiator path, I had them do the job.

Upon inspecting the removed hose, I could find no obvious fault, so I inquired further. They clarified that it was the seal which had failed (I guess replacing the entire hose is the fix for this?), that it was contaminants that build up in the coolant which attack the seals, and that I should expect it to happen again if I don't flush the coolant every 10,000 miles (yes, ten thousand).

I asked if he meant to say that I should check the 'coolant additive level' every 10k (instead of 15k) and he again stated that a full flush was necessary every 10k miles and that it was a "maintenance intensive engine." This can't be right.

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