Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: P0488 Code After Intake Elbow Install
May 21, 2016
Anyways, I've been doing a lot of work on my 6.0 2004 Ford Excursion lately, and recently installed my Sinister Diesel intercooler pipes and intake elbow, and had to remove my throttle body completely to do so. I know that the 2004 models throw codes when removed, and that's what I'm here for. Mine isn't dogged down and actually runs even smoother with my new piping and intake, but I want to get rid of this code.
Is there any tune out there that can erase it? For some reason my Edge Insight CTS2 sees the code, but my SCT X4 flash tuner doesn't see the P0488 code. I know people have discussed this topic several times, but after hours of reading through posts I never found any solution to this. All I need is a way to delete the code because I don't like having my CTS2 with a trouble code for something I did on purpose!
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I need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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My truck threw a CEL after the first start today. The CTS reports it twice. I noticed it about two minutes after start.
P02E1 - Diesel Intake Air Flow Control Performance
The air box gauge is green and it doesn't reset when I push it so that appears to be fine.
The one thing I can easily notice is the sound of the turbo. Typically when I stop and park, the turbo spools up, then down, then spools again and gives a sigh of relief and it's then silent. It's not doing that currently.
Now, I can hear it constantly when parked and it spools down after I turn off the engine, even two minutes later. That is not normal for my truck when I wait for the above to finish its routine. When I start the truck, the turbo immediately spools to where I can hear it which is also not normal, as if it's building 0.5 psi. I realize that's funny to say on a turbo diesel but I know the sounds of my truck. The EGT's are fine, EOT, ECT, TFT are fine and I can build boost when driving without issue. I took the drive to work easy this morning so the highest I noticed was 10 psi.
I restarted the truck after a 20 minute drive to the office and it didn't clear the CEL. The CTS squawked four times when it woke up the second time but it didn't show me which PID it was upset about.
I'm thinking this has nothing to do with the CAI and this is something downstream of there. EGR related? I haven't opened the air box yet, at work and in dress clothes so that'll need to wait. My past four or five regenerations all started between 1.94 and 1.97 soot gpl. That is also not normal and is something I have been keeping my eyes on. Currently the DPF is at 2.10 so it has made it further. Normal behavior (post emissions flash) is above 2.54 soot gpl for an AR.
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I was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
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I'm getting ready to install the SCT X4 tuner on my ford F250 6.0 diesel should I pull any fuses before connecting the tuner
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I finally received all the parts needed for installing my fuel pressure gauge, but I am wondering if I am going to need a schrader valve on my fuel pressure line going to the sending unit, or if I am going to be safe with just doing a 6 time cycle of the fuel pump like we do when we change out the fuel filters. Seems like that should work for getting the air out of the fuel lines, same concept I would think.
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my egr delete j pipe orings give me trouble and i replaced but broke a bolt, now i think that big donut oring is leaking, i was reading you can put a 3/4 freeze plug in to eliminate any coolant into the intake, where does the freeze plug go,front cover or intake and does coolant still pass thru the j pipe?
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I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
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I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
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Installing the diesel site fuel filter / water separator system for our 6.7's . And If so how do you like it. and your pro's and con's besides price.
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Where the air intake for the cabin air conditioning system is? The past several trucks I've owned had a cabin air filter which I replaced annually. They get filthy and I can see why this dirt should not get into the evaporator coil. It will reduce air flow and here in Texas we need all the air flow we can get (106 today). It shouldn't be too hard to improvise a filter to wrap over the intake (for a cheap fix).
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I just replaced the oil/egr cooler, stand pipes and dummy plugs along with all suggested upgrades, just filled with oil hooked up batteries and while filing with coolant it started gushing out from under the intake in front. I think I see an o-ring pushed out.. I hope I can lift the intake without removing the turbo!!!
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Installed a 65 Gal Titan Tank the other day. I Finally got a chance to fill her up all the way.. well as much as i could.
My Level sensor is not functioning and I was only able to put in a total of 160 Liters when it should have been right around 246L.
My question is this : I need to syphon my tank now. Is there anything preventing me from doing that or will a 1/2 hose work?
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I understand that exhaust runs through the EGR. what I don't know is:
Does the EGR valve control the amount of exhaust into the air intake?
If so, does only the amount of exhaust let through the valve go through the EGR?
if so, if the EGR valve is closed then no exhaust will go through the EGR?
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I I have a pretty good o ring leak where the egr cooler meets with the intake. My question is can i replace the o ring without removing​ the intake. If so what is the process.
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Air Intake Heater Plug Code Eliminator P0541
In conjunction with the AIH Delete Plug??
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Under light acceleration without any load. The motor backfired through the intake. Lost all boost. Other than the backfire noise the motor seems to be fine except for lack of power due to no boost. The motor has been serviced by Ford Dealer since new. All services have been done at 5K mile intervals. The last service was done at 60K miles. All filters had been changed at that time (oil, air and fuel).
I do have experience with turbo/ supercharged motors. My experience would tell me that the problem was with a lean condition at the time of the backfire. Plenty of fuel in the tank and no low fuel pressure warning. I have seen low fuel pressure warning in the past but it happened during the winter when temps were negative 40 degrees. The truck is still under extended warranty so I really don't have concerns regarding repair costs.
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I have recently bought a 04 f250 6.0, and it has the intake thumping noise that varies speed with idle... I was told it could be a broken rocker, a bent push rod, or a broken roller... I am not that much experienced with diesels. I've spoken to the dealership, and they don't wanna fix it, they said it wouldnt hurt it to drive it like that, but the noise bothers the hell out of me, and everyone notices it. so i wanna get it fixed. I am hoping its just a rocker. if it is just a rocker how deep am i in? truck has 240xxx miles on it, and runs perfect other than that noise.
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I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
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My 2003 f250 6.0l just up and quit. It make a popping noise out of the intake when cranking. I am getting 1150 psi at the icp and ipr is at 62% which seems high to me. The FICM voltage seem fine unless the batteries are drained and I am getting FICM sync. I replaced the HPOP, ICP sensor and IPR about a year ago. I recently replaced the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump. I am at a bit of a loss. I did pull the IPR and everything looked fine.
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