Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Engine Surges When Driving
Mar 30, 2016
I have a 99 7.3 with 40,000 on a rebuild,injectors I don't know they do pass a buzz test. What happens is when driving say at 30 mph and I am not needing to give it throttle but i don't back all the way off the peddle sort of at a neutral point my engine will sound rough and seems like its not hitting on all cylinders.it runs great when i give it fuel and idles fine its just the point in between it runs erratic.last year when chasing a no power problem. I did rebuild the ipr, new fuel filter, icp and harness,cps and what fixed it was new fuel pressure regulator (brass was gaulded and causing fuel pressure to crash). No mods other than a bullydog tuner that never goes past #2 setting. I do have a auto ingenuity scanner, what to look for or already know what my issue is.
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i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
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The truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.
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My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
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We have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
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I own a 2003 Ford F-450 Superduty Chassis w/Utility Body. Owned it for the last 2-1/2 years . So far, the only things needing replacement were an Alternator, FICM, and routine oil and transmission fluid as well as filters.
This past week the truck started lurching while in traffic. I brought it back to the shop and put the scanner on it, and found codes for #1,#3,#5 injectors imbalance and no circuit to the fan motor. Did some research and found low oil and/or dirty oil could affect the injectors, I changed the oil and all filters also removed the EGR and cleaned it too.
I started the truck ran it, stopped, and restarted and let it run for a few. I cleared the codes and did another test. The only code that came up was the Cooling fan P0528 again. I let the truck run. All of a sudden the truck revved up and I could hear the turbo kick in and the engine seemed to take a life of it's own. I did another round with the scanned and found codes for Cruise Control popping up P0565 through p0569 and the p0528 again along with a p1000.
My truck is not equipped with cruise control, but apparently that is what might be making the engine surge. What do I do? What this might be???
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I have been getting about a 1-2 second power loss while driving. happened last friday when at a stop light, pressed the pedal and started to go then it dropped out for a second or two and then caught right back up. only cut out twice in 10 minutes then ran fine for another week. This friday oddly enough , it happened again while driving down the road. happened about 5 different times in 10 minutes, then back to normal. I replaced the passenger uvch with dorman, but not driver side a couple of months ago . Does this sound like the other uvch, or tps?
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have had this happen twice now. Starts fine, idles fine, then either sitting or just driving a block or two it starts running very rough, no smoke that I remember seeing, and now no power. Barely makes it up a hill. The first time I thought is was related to the heavy rain the night before. I had the tow truck coming and decided to try it again, this was after a few hours sitting. Ran perfectly. The second time, no wetness/rain, pulled away from the house and in a block or two, same thing ... rough, no smoke, no power. Pulled back into driveway, turned off for a minute, restarted and ran fine. Ran perfect today. What is the best injector cleaner to use in the fuel?
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Been a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I have a late 99 f350 psd with 94k miles. I have had it a little more than a year. It has been a great truck until last night. left my parents place drove up the road about 40 mph and truck just died. I tried to restart with no luck. I don't have a scanner to pull codes, but I immediately thought cps. I went to town and got one, replaced it and had no change. Still crank, no start. I thought maybe fuel so I drained the bowl and pulled the filter. I found the previous owner had torn the bottom oring on the filter when he installed it.
Part of the oring was laying on the bottom of the fuel bowl and part of it was still in the filter oring groove. I removed all the 2 chunks of oring and reassembled the filter and primed the bowl. Cranked the truck, still no start. I unplugged the icp sensor and after cranking a few seconds, the truck coughed. I tried starting again and it fired up. So I shut it off and plugged in the icp again and it restarted no problem. Is that an indicator the icp sensor is shot? Or is there another problem I need to dig into.
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Last week the engine in my truck was shutting off while driving. Happened to me 3 times over the course of two days. The first couple of times, the engine was dead for 3-5 seconds and then the engine would come alive and drive normally again. The third time was about a 10 second event...same result, engine refired on it's own and drove normally. I was in motion all three times so the engine restarts all occurred before I was able to bring the truck to a complete stop.
No check engine light...(I didn't pull any codes because I didn't have my laptop with me). So, I decided to try a new CPS. I had one in my glove box since 2003 so in it went. It replaced a black CPS that I purchased from Riffraff about 100k miles ago. The new CPS seems to have done the trick. I've driven about 500 miles since the swap and the symptom has not returned. I wonder how long this one will last. It's a Ford replacement part so maybe I'll get another 100k miles...
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i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course. 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed. I have been looking through all power strokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR.
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So I have this intermittent problem of the truck shutting down on its own when in idle or idling along in drive I immediately put the truck in N, turn the key and she starts right up again.
Does not do it at speeds, just in idle. The "check gage" and "battery" light are the only dash lights on after a shut down.
Where do I start?
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So I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
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This has happened 3 or 4 times now while driving down the road. Just cruising down the road the CC will just cut out. I'll hit the "set accel" button on the wheel and all is good again until it randomly decides to do it again.
The only thing I've changed recently is the rear end speed sensor to cure the ABS light. I wouldn't/didn't think this would have any effect on the cruise control, but IDK, maybe I'll put the original one back in and test it.
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