Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 - Dome Light On And Off - Noise Under Dash Fuse Panel?
Jul 26, 2016
I was to leave tomorrow for a trip with three horses. Last night when I parked my truck the dome light went on and off and there was a noise (like a relay opening and closing?) coming from the area. (I have been having issues with the turn signal getting "tired". At times they would only come on solid then other times try would quit after sitting at a long light.)
Checked my manual for fuses to this issue and I removed the fuse in the spot indicated for the "dome and courtesy lights", number 14. Actually I had removed spot number 15 (5amp). This ended the noise. Drove the truck after and all seemed in order, cruise control, turn signals, interior lights! This was the incorrect fuse according to the book! This event occurred with the ignition in the OFF position. Not wanting to start my trip before I get this in order.
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I own the above described vehicle; I'm at about 196k and I'm the original owner. It's a quad cab, 2002 7.3L with power everything. I believe it's the XLT package (it's not in front of me... I'm at work. CONFIRMED... XLT package).
Currently, it's the workhorse and back-up for the family, not my primary driver - luckily. I've had failure if the automatic door lock on the rear pass. door, and a sticky lock on the rear driver's side lock - they've both been in this state for at least the last four years, no problems beyond the hassle of manual manipulation of the door lock from the inside - otherwise no electrical issues really to speak of.
Three weeks ago, we went to the snow. I rarely use the 4x4, but found that I had to use it that day to get out of some mud - it worked fine, no issues. In addition, I also used the cruise control... something I do rarely, but have not had any issue with it either.
In exiting the area some hours later at the end of our day, I noted two things... the "door ajar" dash light was illuminated and did not shut off through the drive home, and the dome light remained on until the battery saver shutdown shut it down... quite some time (where normally a key in the column turned past the insertion would shut it off).
When I drove home I used the cruise control, as mentioned, and it worked fine.
In exiting the vehicle while at home, as soon as the door was opened the horn started blaring panic alarm style - honk, honk, honk, honk... - and when the batteries are attached, there is nothing that stops the honking, except the battery saver timeout. BTW... no key in the ignition.
I don't use the FOBs... the batteries were dead anyhow (and I moved the FOBs out of range of the vehicle).
Attempted fixes:
- Lubing the lock/WD-40, then shutting/opening the doors (no luck/no change).
- Pulling door panels, removing locking mechanism, removing door ajar switches (I don't know what they're called), manually manipulating the piston AND checking each with a multimeter. (NOTE: One "seemed" not to work properly, so I purchased one from dealer and placed it back... still, no luck resolving the issues overall).
-Checked the wiring looms supplying all four doors - no broken wires noted.
- Replaced the two vehicle batteries.
I'm at a loss and I'm hitting up this forum before I move forward...
I've read that there are issues with the VSM for this year's model, but I'm hesitant to purchase the module without further feedback from a tech. I've read some general posts about alarm systems (doesn't apply to me) and horn issues (but those were horn constantly blaring... not the intermittent horn blasts of a "panic alarm sounding."
I've heard that the GEM and clockspring could be an issue, but I have to look more closely at the associated problems (like recheck to see if the cruise works... door windows go up/down like some threads have mentioned...). I have also read that the door ajar sensor switches attached to the automatic locks could be culprit, as they may "work" when pulled out, but not work when they're installed in the vehicle.
Ultimately, what the cause to the panic horn beeping, dome light and door ajar instrument indicator being on.
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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I have a 2002 f250 screw. my door ajar light is lit up on the dash. I have tried the wd40 trick, pulled the sensors and bench tested them. What are the codes the instrument cluster test has for each door?
What I am thinking is, if we get a list posted it would be much easier to diagnose the door sensors for others. there should be a open/closed bit for each door. possibly a code for all doors open too. I am curious if there is a code for bad communication on the VSM.
From what I have read, correctly working the doors should read 00 when they are closed. drivers front open=80, pass front open=40 ... My door code does not change no matter what combination of door open/close I use.
Truck is 2002 f250 crew cab ...
My code is C0 ...
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I have a 2001 F250 Crew Cab with Powerstroke. The dash lights are starting to go out one at a time. How do I get to and replace the bulbs?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My sister has a 2003 gmc sierra and the 12 way body plug in the fuse panel inside drivers door on dash isn't getting power. Where that section of fuse box gets power from? The rest works its just the 12 plug???
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Why the heck would my dome lights (front and back) stay on while I'm driving and when the truck is off KOEO and locked? It's not the reading lights, those I can turn on and off at the switch on the light, it's the lights in between them.
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My buddy is selling his truck in a couple days and was taking out speakers, afe intake, and satelite radio. I go to start the truck and i have no power to windows, no power to radio and no domelight when i switch it on and off. Dont know what i did but none of this works and everything else does.
I checked all fused all were good. I searched the forum for a solution and they said something about the automatic delay relay and i bought a new one and nothing still. I am not sure what else to do i checked with voltmeter if i had anypower to the window or radio and nothing. But the radios clock works and when i turn on the light it illuminates but doesnt turn on.
The truck is a 2002 7.3L Crewcab. f350
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I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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My friend and I were working on my truck and he was testing my AIH relay, as he was testing it the fuel pump was clicking on and off a few times over about 10 minutes. He explained that the current must be back feeding through the system and activating the pump. After testing the relay he determined that it non-functional / broken.
When we went to start it there was a strange buzzing from the fuse box area. After testing all of the fuses and then his code scanner not being able to connect to the truck we can only figure that the PCM is done.
The truck will turn over but not start. Any time the key is in the run position the buzzing noise is there unless you pull the PCM relay or the IDM relay. He says (I know very little about this stuff) that the IDM relay is trying to close but because the PCM is fried the IDM is not getting the signal to do so....?
So what now? Do I need a new PCM? He said something about it need to be reflashed to match the old one, is that right? Are all PCMs equal? What else should I know?
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I picked up a 1999 F-250 Super Duty with the extended cab (not the full crew cab), and have been working on restoring, upgrading, and improving it. It is in great mechanical shape, but needed cosmetic work, replacement of the mirrors and some lenses, and updating to modern tech. I've got all the key wiring in place to install a new in-dash PC head unit with backup camera and a new sub and amp to improve the audio. The problem I'm working on right now is that the head unit is a bit too deep for the double-din slot in the dash.
I could let it stick out 1.5-2" or so and trim it out, but to be honest, I'm not keen on that at all. I think it looks terrible, and I've gone to a ton of trouble already for a nice clean, sleek install and would like to keep it that way.
I've also looked and whether the screen might be divorced from the main body, or the chassis shortened, but neither of those is going to work.
I've considered that there may be someone who makes custom dashes that stick out further for situations like this, effectively deepening the stereo pocket by adding space at the front. If there is though, I can't find them.
Finally, and what seems the most likely, is that I would need to modify/reroute the air duct, and notch out the steel tube at the back of the cavity, to gain an extra 2-3" of depth.
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My yellow 4X4 indicator light on the dash won't turn off for several days after engaging the 4 wheel drive. I have a manual transfer case not the ESOF system, I am certain the 4X4 is disengaged, but the light stays on, so something is sticking. It will usually take several days for the light to go off. I have had to engage my 4X4 system a bunch the last 10 days and had to engage it where I park at my office yesterday due to a huge mound of snow right on the edge of my parking space, man the guy who plows my lot sucks..oh wait, that's me.. so it will be a while before the light goes out on it's own right now. What needs to be sprayed, lubed, tapped with a hammer, replaced?
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Ok so i have an 02 F350 7.3 with 89k on it ... Ive had the truck about 2 years now and ever since i bought it the ABS light has been on. So finally i got to scanning it and codes popped up for the front speed sensors and the rear speed sensor. So i went ahead and just put all new MOOG hub assemblies in the truck which come with the speed sensor already in the them and i also replaced the rear speed sensor, which was difficult!!! Becuase the bolt was seized and i ended up have to drill and tap a new one and even then the sensor seats in the hole in the diff but doesn't seat flush with the housing if you really tighten it down, and it leaked a little fluid at first but i ended up loosening up the bolt a little to make it seat better and then i put silicone around the bottom of the sensor and it stopped leaking... Anyway I've fixed both the code issues and cleared them, BUT, the rear speed sensor code pops back up immediately after clearing it and the ABS light on my dash stays lit .... Idk what to do at this point because I've fixed everything and it still pops the code for the rear sensor, I just want the Light on my dash to go off thats all ! ...
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I had my dash apart to install a radio. Didn't really mess with e-brake. Got it all put back together and light on dash is on. Where should I start to fix this? Is the switch with two wires hooked to the e-brake the only way the light can come on? I have worked it manually with no luck.
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A friend with a 2003 came to me Thursday. He has a dash light on that is an image of an engine. Sitting in the drivers seat, it is to his left. I do not recall seeing this image in my 2001. What might his problem be?
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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I have a 2002 7.3 4x4 truck. The 4x4 will not engage, the lights on the dash don't even light up. I took it to the ford dealer and they said the fuse box and gem module. (800.00 to fix). They said the windshield leaked and shorted then out, so I needed to be replaced? I have replaced the windshield and fixed the leak, my question is the fuse box and gem a plug and play and do different years work?
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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I am looking for a fuse panel diagram for a 07 F350 6.0 ? The truck didn't have a owners manual in it and I have a couple things not working and testing each fuse is just more self hate than I can submit myself to today.
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