My sister has a 2003 gmc sierra and the 12 way body plug in the fuse panel inside drivers door on dash isn't getting power. Where that section of fuse box gets power from? The rest works its just the 12 plug???
View 1 RepliesHow to access the fuse panel inside car under drivers side can't seem to get it open
View 3 RepliesI was to leave tomorrow for a trip with three horses. Last night when I parked my truck the dome light went on and off and there was a noise (like a relay opening and closing?) coming from the area. (I have been having issues with the turn signal getting "tired". At times they would only come on solid then other times try would quit after sitting at a long light.)
Checked my manual for fuses to this issue and I removed the fuse in the spot indicated for the "dome and courtesy lights", number 14. Actually I had removed spot number 15 (5amp). This ended the noise. Drove the truck after and all seemed in order, cruise control, turn signals, interior lights! This was the incorrect fuse according to the book! This event occurred with the ignition in the OFF position. Not wanting to start my trip before I get this in order.
I've taken the driver's door panel off, and unpeeled the liner. Now that the door is naked and exposed, I'd like to fix several things at once, rather than wearing the adhesive liner out by sticking and unsticking several cycles.
Here's a short list of some potential fixes I foresee taking care of while in there, how to :
1. The door ajar light. Mine went out over a decade ago, and the gallon of WD40 I sprayed into the latch did NOT fix it. In fact, it turned it from an intermittent issue into a permanent problem. I'd like to fix it now, as I miss having a light at night when the door is open. How do I fix it? Links, part numbers, tips, pictures, videos, search terms... all info welcome.
2. Bottom door rust. I don't really have much, but I see very faint hints of paint bubbling under the lower door weatherstrip barrier, which I have also removed. I've read about two schools of thought on preventative maintenance.
A. Pour oil or grease into the bottom of the door.
B. POR15 paint in the bottom of the door.
So basically, oil or paint? Obviously, one can't paint if one does oil, but on the other hand, some say that paint... especially thick paint like POR15, can actually do more harm than good by trapping moisture in the bottom pinch flange, or by creating craters or tunnels where water can burrow and then get trapped, rotting the metal away. What are your thoughts and experiences on this? I'd prefer a solution that minimizes the number of times I have to unstick the interior liner from the door.
3. I'm doubling the lower door weatherstrip with a combination of the older and newer designs. Ford sells the weatherstrip with clips attached, but neither those clips, nor the original clips, are really effective for what I'm trying to do. I've already done the rear doors, and made it work with the original clips, but they are brittle, and I lost a couple to breakage. Today, I broke three clips pulling the old weatherstrip off of the door.
I can't find these clips anywhere locally... I've tried every variety the auto parts and auto body stores sell, and Ford doesn't sell these clips separately from the weatherstrip... and even if Ford did, they OEM clips are not long enough to hold the double deployment of old and new styles of weatherstripping.
In searching this issue, it appears that a lot of people have broken these clips, which stands to reason with plastic in baking inside a hot door for 15 years. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would benefit from finding a good source of automotive clips.
4. Mirrors. I'm finally getting around to this, and this is what motivated the door panel removal in the first place. I need the dog bone harness that converts from a round connector to the flat style connector. Specifically, I need part numbers 1C3Z-14A411-AA and 1C3Z-14A411-BA. Ford didn't originally sell these dogbone harnesses separately, but included with the purchase of newer style outside rear view mirrors in case the translation harness was needed. Sometimes it was, sometimes it wasn't, so there would often be these unused harnesses left over.
5. Jimmy Jammers. Will they cause more harm than good? Does a better alternative exist? Thinking of installing these while I"m in there, but worried the door will be damaged worse as the thief tries to fight their way in. And, with body on shell doors, there appears to be much easier ways to break into an SD anyway, so part of me thinks, why bother
So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
View 1 RepliesWas riding along a couple of days ago and felt something odd under my left foot. When I stopped I reached down and discovered it was the dash fuse cover panel. I went to snap it back into place and no snap; it wouldn't pop back into place or stay put at all. Just keeps falling out. It was sufficiently annoying that I ordered a replacement, but that one's not staying in place either. The only other thing I can think of is that the surrounding lower dash cover may be warped, but nothing looks crooked or out of place.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
View 10 RepliesMy '03 driver's side door has been opened enough, and unfortunately with force when it catches a wind gust or opens downhill, etc, that it's actually resulted in a lengthening crack in the middle of the inside door panel. There are two hinges that are fine, which actually keep the door attached to the car frame.
In between, on the higher side of the inside of the door, there's a 'stopper' bolted to the door, with a bracket 'inside' the door. That's where the force of the door opening is applied to the door itself, and where the crack has appeared. It's already a good 4-6 inches long, and presumably will keep going.
In my head, the options seem to be:
-wait for the stopper to fully rip a piece of the door off, at which point the door will open all the way into the car itself.
-attempt a small scale weld 'in place' with a small overlay strip across the crack.
-pull the door all the way apart to where the welder felt more comfortable doing a solid repair job.
-find a replacement door altogether.
Yesterday my wife went out to go somewhere and just got a click when she tried to start the X. I went home and thought it may be a weak battery and charged it up but same thing. The "click" is coming from just behind the fuse panel on the driver's side in the cab. When I turn the key to the ignition position some of the smaller lights on the dash turn off too, like the door ajar light etc, and then when I release the key they turn back on (don't know if that's normal or not, haven't really payed that much attention while starting).
2000 V10 Limited, K&N Filter, Rancho RS9000's
I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
I have a 98 gp gt. I have no power going to the radio, sunroof, steering wheel controls, or power windows in the fuse panel I have virtually ripped this car apart and still no clue why I'm not getting power.
View 3 RepliesMy back door has pretty much lost all power, so how to take off the panel.
View 1 RepliesHere's a video of how to remove the interior drivers' side door panel.
You'll need a t30 torx driver, trim/pry tools and a pair of needle nose pliers. It's really easy and the parts are pretty durable.
As I pull off the panel you can see that something falls out of the bottom. It's one of the t30 torx screws that gets rotated 90 degrees. It simply pops back into the hole.
I had to wrap it up quickly at the end...a bee flew in the shot and I'm allergic. I think you can see the panic in me even though I'm not actually facing the camera.
How to remove the rear door panels I made a thread for that awhile ago. Here's the link to that one: [URL] .....
I need to know how to remove the driver-side door panel on an 87 DeVille Sedan. My son just bought his first car and none of the windows work, checked the breaker, it is good. Our next plan of action is to remove the panel and see if anything looks 'off'.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 passat and i want to remove the driver door panel. Well I did the search found what I need to do it, but every search result says to pry off the window controls. I was tugging and pulling all this morning and never could get it off.
View 4 RepliesI guess it's more of an annoyance thing than anything else. When I drive I like to rest my knee on the this area where the window switch is. If I drive over a bump etc...this area squeaks. Is it worth having the dealer fix or will it just return.
View 8 RepliesI am looking for a fuse panel diagram for a 07 F350 6.0 ? The truck didn't have a owners manual in it and I have a couple things not working and testing each fuse is just more self hate than I can submit myself to today.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 f-150 and am having a problem that I cannot pin down . After starting the truck and running it for 10 min or so I shut it off and it will not restart again for approx. 3-4 hrs . When you turn the key there is a clicking noise coming from behind the fuse panel . Also the truck will not start if temp outside rises above 80 degrees . Is there a replaceable relay under there or is it the computer module ? Battery is new .
View 9 RepliesI've amassed almost 3700miles in my 14 gs350f thus far and really enjoy the car. One problem I've had for the past 1000miles or so is the drivers door control cluster for the window switches etc., not the black part but the actual panel the buttons are hooked into buzzes and wiggles and up down maby 2mm. I swear, it buzzes like a beehive that's on FIRE when the radio is on. I've been resting my hand on it for a while but enough is enough, how do I get that panel out so I can stick some really thin foam in there to stop it?
View 10 RepliesMy 04 audi a4 driver door will not open from the inside or outside. The bowden cable is a little loose but it has some tension, but even if that was broken i should still be able to open from the outside. the key fob will arm the alarm also.
And I can hear the door manually locking if i use the key also.i can arm the alarm only if i use the key to lock the door manually. but it will not open. i have to either crawl through the window or from the other side. Other than ripping the door panel apart and opening the door that way? Also the dash display shows the door is shut so that is a plus...