Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Harder To Start In Morning
Feb 6, 2017
Replaced cups 3ish years ago
Replaced IPR (non- Motorcraft) and ICP last year
New (not remans) PIS Stage 1 injectors with Hydra Flash October
Truck has been running and starting (down to 19 degrees) like a dream since the new injectors. After the last fill up the truck has been harder to start in the morning and if I don't let it warm up till at least until the needle moves it will stall and be difficult to start. Once started and up to temp it runs just fine but will definitely take aa few extra turns to get started whether cold or hot.
There is CEL, I don't smell or see any diesel in the coolant, oil looks good and the diesel in the filter is kind of a clear blue? The way it acts when it stalls is kind of like when the IPR went bad the first time... kind of. The few times I was able to get my phone connected fast enough I saw and IPR duty cycle in the 90s flash and a HPOP pressure of 1500 or so flash all while the truck is barely hanging on to an idle.
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
My e99 f250 has been getting harder and harder to start over the last year.
I think one of my batteries is dying or dead but it still cranks fast while it does.
For instance when I tried starting today it seemed to crank just like normal but their was some relay clicking inside the cab that was abnormal.
My understanding is aside from cranking no power is required to start the motor? what if the dead battery is taking some cranking amps from the good battery preventing the computer from getting juice?
would the truck throw a code if it was a glow plug?
View 9 Replies
Background on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
View 6 Replies
Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
View 14 Replies
My spine was damaged in an IED blast in Iraq a few years ago and my truck is getting harder and harder to drive. It sends every little bump up me. It looks like I have the original shocks on there.
What is recommended for shocks or possibly seat upgrades or any other possible solutions. I love my truck and don't want have to get something else.
The most I haul is my jeep on a trailer and occasionally two jeeps (8000lbs)...
View 9 Replies
So when driving my tuck the steering on it would sorta lock up like it wanted to push the truck to one side then it would free up and the steering would be real loose it just felt like it had no power steering to one side it's not the same side each time and it pulses when I'm at a stop if I move the the tires Erving the motor doesn't seem to work so far I have replaced ball joints and all tie rods they needed done anyways it would still do it got an alignment done last week and it almost seems worse now could just be coincidence.
I'm thinking power steering pump but when the steering locks up to one side I'm also wondering if it's the steering box it's kinda hard to explain it what's going on and there is no popping noise or anything when the steering frees up. It's kinda scary on the freeway when I go around a corner the steering gets real loose and wonders back and forth not all the time but quit a bit but when going strait it will feel like it wants to pull to one side then the steering will loosen up again. The steering will wine only first thing in the morning when I pull out of the driveway then it's fine
View 14 Replies
2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
View 14 Replies
So I have an '03 6.0 with 151000 and change. I go out to light her off in the morning and she fires quick and easy. Idles well and no complaints. But when hot shes sluggish to start. Now it's not what I would call a typical hard start considering I've watched videos on YouTube and guys are having a lot harder of a time then me getting theirs started. It's just not the same as cold it almost sounds like it's lacking fuel cause it starts real low after fire then with a couple revolutions it perks up. And this is without the key still in it. Again no idle or running issues at all. I've been trying to see if it could be my ipr? My ficm is new and never gets below 47V but idk what it is.
View 14 Replies
Truck was starting good, then slowly got harder to start. Now it will not start. I do not know what to check next.
HPOP 3700
ipr 46
FICM 48V
rpm sounds good.
Injector pulse 0. not sure if I have torque app set up correctly for that one.
No smoke and I pulled the top fuel filter and drained the fuel. took about 3 seconds to fill the housing with fuel.
Air filter gauge says it is good.
Still checking where to go.
View 5 Replies
This morning when attempting a cold start of my 05 6.0, it would not start was noticeably harder cranking. I had no CEL. I checked my scan Guage and the volts were 13.4 and fcm main power was 48.4. I checked and I had a p0405 code. What could be going on? I read that it can be a stuck or bad EGR valve? Could it be battery related?
View 9 Replies
The last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
View 10 Replies
ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
View 6 Replies
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 Replies
New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
View 14 Replies
My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
View 14 Replies
I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
View 1 Replies
Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
View 7 Replies
My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
View 14 Replies
My truck has been sitting for the last six months since my stroke and now the ABS light is on when I start it up. I have not looked into it yet but was wondering if it might just be dirt on the sensor(s).
View 6 Replies
Ive got a 99 7.3 with 250,000 miles on it. It has run fine all day but just jumped in and won't start. It cranks over but won't fire. Check engine light doesn't come on. About two weeks ago it cut off twice at idle but haven't had that problem since.
View 2 Replies
