Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: IDM Failure Code And High Side Open Bank 1 And 2
Sep 24, 2010
Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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I've got a 1271 code and I can't seem to make it go away. Code definition is "High side to Low side open Cyl 1". The truck runs fine, no rough idle, no excessive smoke of any color, just the damn CEL light stays on. I check the UVCH and all the injectors ohm in at 2.7 ohms. I've already done the updated clips under the covers. I run all the buzz tests and KOEO/ KOER tests and all appears OK. My AE won't do a Cyl contribution test. All the injector data shows all 0.00. I know its not that perfect. "high to low open", does that mean I've lost a ground? If so where?
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Getting DTC Code P1271 - #1 Injector High -> Low Side Open.
The code tends to show up more during cold weather start up. Using AE-AutoEngenuity KOEO - Buzz Test returns the P1271 error
Troubleshooting performed:
- 42-Pin Connector @ Driver Side Valve Cover
- 9-pin VCH on Passenger side
- IDM Module under driver side wheel well
- All of these are testing within the 2.8 - 3.2 Ohm range
- (Used the GB Reman. Tech Bulletin 103) - TB 103: 1994-03 Ford 7.3L IDM Replacement & Diagnostics)
I was going to replace the solenoid, however, with the above readings I'm not convinced it's the solenoid. Before I tear into the valve covers I was looking for some add'l thoughts from the forum. Could it be the IDM ?....
Any add'l checks to perform using AE, or the IDM, other than replacing IDM.
01 Platinum 7.3 - BTS - PHP Hydra Tunes - 4" FloPro - Riff RaffWheel - Redhead Steering - Driven Diesel Hutch/Harpoon - Kenwood DVD w/ back up- 35"s - GloPro EGT/Pyro/Boost/Trans, Scan Gauge II, AE bundle
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So I got an IDM code and then after running AE buzz test got a P1273 (#3 cylinder high low open).
Ohm'd out the 42 Pin - got 3 across the board. Only test 42 pin from valve cover to injectors.
Double checked UVHC
Swapped solenionds
Swapped injectors
Did ford wiggle test.
Ran Injector buzz between all those steps and still get P1273.
What's the next step? Ohm from IDM to 42pin? May actually be a bad IDM?
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I have always been afraid this day would come - that the engine would outlast the door and window systems.
I have never previously in life wanted a vehicle with electric assisted windows and doors for this reason - remember when those were expensive foo-foo options on a vehicle?
Anyway the back passenger door window has not worked for a couple years now. Not too big a deal.
A month ago the back passenger door could no longer be opened from either side. Not too good and I couldn't see much of a way to ever fix it.
This morning the back driver side door won't open from either side. The lock only half-heartedly wants to unlock via the powered system though it can be fully pulled up manually (not as possible on the passenger side rear).
Next up will be the front doors...
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I had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
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My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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I can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
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If the fuel relief valve is stuck open would it possibly throw a P1316 code?
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How to fix SES P0670?? I understand there's a whole procedure on checking fault.
P0670:GPCM Glow plug control module control line failure. Open/grounded circuit, open/shorted GPCM, failed PCM
But how did you resolve problem? replaced GPCM, found open circuit, short --if so where?-- or replaced with updated harness.
(4C3Z-12B568-AA connector upgrade kit as in picture)???
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I have a few codes I pulled with and AE Using CCT and I got codes PO263, P0269, PO275..
Also got P0603, P1316, P0470 on power train
Did a BUZZ TEST P0273 and also check uvc harness
I've replaced ICP,OIL and Filter,fuel filter,CPS still no luck.
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So the other day I was driving my truck and all of the sudden it through a p1316 code. So I did a Buzz test with FORscan and it gave me this error P12777. For the people that have dealt with this code before, where should I start looking, As I have a lot of stuff to take out on the passenger side before I can even see the valve cover. Is it more of a wiring issues or is it a injector issue.
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So I am trying to learn how to use the forscan program. I find that it detected an open circut for th deleted intake heater, which I expected. It also found :
===ECS DTC B1230===
Code: B1230 - Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
Module: Electronic Crash Sensor
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Driver Safety belt Retractor Low or High Resistance on Squib
So that answers the the question about the intermittent airbag/ seat-belt lamp. How to solve this problem? BTW- This is a E350 SD Van ....
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I am having a difficult time trying to track down the root cause of a P1393 code in a 99.5 7.3. The code means all the glow plugs on the driver's side are not working. I don't have any other codes related to the glow plug system present in my computer.
I've replaced:
1)The Glow Plug Relay (I have the CA version with the shunt)
2)Valve cover gaskets and wire harnesses
3)Glow plugs
I've used all OEM product replacements.
Additional testing:
1)Voltage on the glow plug relay posts going to the left and right bank is the same (I think this means the shunt is okay)
2)Disconnecting the wire harness to the valve covers yields 12 volts at all 8 glow plug connections during the glow plug cycle
3)In one of the steps of a troubleshooting document I found, it requires a KOEO On-Demand Self Test. It does not complete and ends with a P0605 code, "Internal CTRL Module ROM Error" using a Snap On Scan tool.
4)Using the Snap On scan tool to run a glow plug test results in "Test has aborted 64 - Abnormal Exit without result".
5)I checked part of the wiring loom and it seemed to be good.
Is there a way to test the wire that goes from the Glow Plug Relay on the driver-side bank to the PCM? I think that either this wire is bad, or a bad PCM.
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After installing new glow plugs, glow plug relay, and valve cover gaskets my 2000 7.3 is throwing the 1395 code. Glow plug monitor Bank 1. Any input as to cause? Checked all connections to relay. All tight. Read something about fusible link. Where that is located? One side of relay reads 0 volts.
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Drove the truck to the store tonight about 5 minutes away and everything seemed fine. Went to leave the parking lot and noticed the check engine light was on. Pulled out my tablet, dongle and fired up Torque Pro. Retrieved error code P0170. Truck has a little over 12,700 miles and is complete stock. I ran a search and didn't come up with much info on this code other than what Just Stroken posted in another post.
[URL]....
Looking for more information about this code?
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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Had the ole factory fuel separator/bowl drain start leaking on me about a month back. So i ordered and installed a new one, issue fixed. Well last night the fuel leak started again, I looked everywhere and i cant see anywhere else it may be leaking at. I felt the underside of said piece and it didn't feel wet, but the valley is full of fuel.
I got in there and tightened the 4 bolts down some more, they were tight but i got a some turns on em and am hoping i either didn't tighten it down enough or they maybe backed out some. Now just gotta see if that solves the problem, again.... the replacement is a doorman, the o-rings were bigger/thicker than the factory orings on the old part, of which the o-rings were shot.
Like I said once i replaced the part the leak stopped for 3 weeks until last night. If the tightening of the bolts doesn't solve it where should I look next? I have an FRX mod but i checked all that and its dry as a bone around all the fittings by the bowl and the heads. No indications of leaks anywhere around any of the FRX assembly.
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I just bought a 99 f150 and the check engine light came on with code p0171,system too lean bank 1. It runs and drives fine but has a strong smell of gas when I shut it off.
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So my red door open light started staying on. Along with all the lights associated with the doors being opened. The lights don't always come on, but the dash lights stays. As a quick fix I just popped the bulbs out and went on my way. Tried lubing the doors. That didn't work. I started noticing it seemed to be related to when I was slowing down or turning.
I thought maybe it's my passenger leaning on the door around the turns. So I inspected all the doors, they latch fine and don't feel like they're open. Last night I was riding by myself, and I realized that it wasn't anyone leaning on the door. When I would slow down, at the same spot. I would hear a click and the lights by the doors would come on, as well as the light on the back of the cab over the bed.
It did it every time the whole way home. It was approx. 16-18 mph when it would click. It was the same spot each time but I couldn't really nail the exact speed and watch for deer. I originally thought I'd just replace the sensors in the doors, but idk if that'll work anymore since it seems to be affected by other factors.
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