Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Got Code P0170 - Power Fuel Trim (Bank 1)
Dec 10, 2015
Drove the truck to the store tonight about 5 minutes away and everything seemed fine. Went to leave the parking lot and noticed the check engine light was on. Pulled out my tablet, dongle and fired up Torque Pro. Retrieved error code P0170. Truck has a little over 12,700 miles and is complete stock. I ran a search and didn't come up with much info on this code other than what Just Stroken posted in another post.
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I just bought a 2016 F250 with the diesel and thought I'd share an early ownership experience. At about the 1300 mile mark the check engine light came on and other than the remote start not working the truck continued to run great. I pulled a P0170 code, Fuel Trim Bank 1. And since the truck was still running fine, I considered clearing the code and see if it would come back. But since it's under warranty I decided to bring it to the dealer. They checked it out and diagnosed a bad Fuel Rail Pressure (FRP) sensor. They swapped it out and it seems to be good to go (no more light). While I was in there I asked them to turn on the DPF percentage full screen which they did.
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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I have a 2003 f350 6.0 diesel crew cab. The outside door trim that runs about a 1/4 way up from the bottom off the door is falling off. I was wondering what was the best way to re-attach them.
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The black rubber trim around the windshield is coming off on the top of the windshield. Vibrating away at an extremely annoying tone.
Been that way for a while just a small section, I'd just super glue it down and it would hold for a 1000 miles or so, then I would just do it again until it came off about 1/2 way across. At that point I just used Gaffers tape across the whole top - looks okay dark area of the truck and Dark red paint makes it so you cant notice the black tape at a glance. now that its getting hotter that's not holding but for 500 miles, which is about a week for me and gets annoying to have to stop on the fwy to fix it.
So its time to fix it right, but how?
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Which is, Injector Control Pressure Too Low. First filter change on this truck. Purged the truck six times. No start. Purged it six more times. The truck started momentary. I've been purging for the last two hours. Now I have the code. What next?
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About a year or so ago, cyl 5 glow plug failed. 6 months later number 1 failed. Now number 3. I seem to remember someone mentioning that the module can sometimes cause produce similar problems. Are there two circuits in the module, one for the left and one for the right, or just one circuit for both? 167K on it so it doesn't surprise me that they fail but just odd that they are all on the same side.
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2004 6.0 160K....
I have a very hard to hear tinging sound that emanates from near the right bank--possibly more audible toward the front of the motor. It is very hard to hear but it is there. it is higher pitch than the "diesel" sound, and much lower in volume. I had thought it was my lower alternator (dual alternator setup), but I ran it without the lower belt and the sound is still there.
I think the sound tings at a faster rate with RPM increase, but in truth, I am not certain, but it is drowned out by engine noise. Using the base engine test to spin the engine over I do not hear it, BUT it might also be that the engine doesn't spin over fast enough. During the test the engine spins fast and smooth. I did the test with a warm motor.
I have AE software and have a good balance (after just changing injector #8). I know that cylinder 1 (passenger side) is after #8 in firing sequence so I was kind of hoping that the noise was coming from a max'd out injector trying to compensate for the bad #8. However, after installing the new #8 injector the engine idles smoothly with a straight-line contribution balance---and the right bank noise is still there.
Could it just be an injector making noise that will eventually fail?
Could it be a cracked rocker or a bend pushrod?
Could it be something else...?
Is there anyway to figure this out without pulling the right side valve cover? I guess I've decided this is the next step, but I'm looking for any thoughts before I commit to that. I've done things like this in the past and my luck says I'd pull the cover and not find a smoking gun.
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So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?
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My fuel gauge on my Sport Trac is nowhere near accurate. Ran out of gas the other day showing 1/4 tank.
I get a little hesitation as well when accelerating.
I'm showing a PO191 fault code which says Fuel rail sensor.
Would that cause a gauge to malfunction?
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Just over 6000 miles....Yesterday morning the light came on. Dealer wouldn't look at it for a week. Went to my mechanic this morning to check the code it was p0181 fuel temp sensor. I read something online about the block heater making it too warm. The other night it was cold so I plugged it in, then yesterday morning it got warm overnight like into the lower 40s. I noticed the grill felt warm too. My mechanic cleared it if it comes back on do I have an issue? Is it ok to drive?
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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Today I just installed a brand new IDM and after running the Injector Buzz Test test, I received codes: P1298 Injector Drive Module Failure, P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1, and P1294 Injector High Side Open - Bank 2. How a new IDM could throw these codes?
When running the KOEO test I received codes P0605 Injector Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error, P1298, P1293, & P1294.
My engine is still missing but the engine is running a heck of a lot better after replacing the IDM and injector 8 has a rotational velocity of about 3%
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I have a 2004 f-550 sd with a 6.0. I am having a problem with cyls, 2, 4, 6 and 8 dropping out at idle. if you rev the motor up they work fine. Could I have a bad injector oring? Seems that iap pressure is good. And seems funny that it is just the one side.
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I got a "P054F- Idle Control System - Fuel Quantity Higher Than Expected" this morning and again this afternoon. I did a search and the only threads that contain the code are the codes lists and one guy who got the code but no follow up. I found a few instances through Google, but almost all of them said the dealers just reset the code. It seems to happen in cold weather, which we are having. Both instances were in the same situation, remote start warmed up then short town drives. No CEL came on. Anyway, I reset it and I'll see what happens.
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So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
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I have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
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1st diesel was a 1997 F350 dually (White Lightning). Upgraded last year to a 2015 F350 (The Rocket Sled)- the kids named it hahaha. Had to take the 6.7 (9200 miles) into the shop... Last Sunday I took the truck out and about 5 minutes from home I got the low fuel pressure warning. Pulled over and tried to purge air out of fuel system- the low pressure pump was making a terrible racket. Turned around and limped home- reduced power came on soon after. Parked it until I could get to the dealership on Tues. Long story short- dropped it off at the dealer (low pressure pump still making noise/ no low fuel waning, just CEL light).
Called to check status today- dealer can't seem to duplicate problem. Service advisor said if mechanic can't find anything wrong, service manager was going to take it out and try to duplicate. The is the 2nd time I've got the low fuel pressure warming. The first time (around 4000mi. ) was in winter- I changed out fuel filters and it went away. I was towing the 5th wheel. Just had to vent-I have to get this figured out. I wouldn't thing the filter could get clogged within 5k miles. Have a camping trip scheduled next week!!
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This is a new truck to me 03 Excursion, the owner has done a lot, gave me receipts for a lot of work and cosmetically it just seems taken care of. About a year ago hpop, ficm, oem egr and 3 injectors. He wasn't happy with that mechanic and still having problems so went to a different (supposedly better) shop. This time turbo cleaned, all 8 injectors and passenger head was redone and put back on with oem bolts. Apparently it was found that a nut was dropped down valve cover by the first shop! Somewhere along the way the ICP and GP module has been replaced.
I've only driven it a couple times and seems great until last night. It was loosing power and in about 10 seconds died and wouldn't start back up. Pops but doesn't stay running. WIF dash light on and no CEL codes. Not sure where to start/what to do. I've paid for most of it and was planning to pay the rest and transfer title but I'm not comfortable doing that till I'm confident it's good to go.
I drained the separator and seemed to gush out like it should and don't think I saw water. I'm planning to take the sensor off the filter there, inspect and clean it but I don't imagine that's the problem. I do see oil coming on the back of the engine and front of tranny on the drivers side... maybe ICP is all oily and failed? I don't know much about these, just been trying to read. What should I do as some first steps? Do I need some sort of scanner? It seems like it's starving for fuel. It was about 1/4 of fuel when I bought it and filled it up the night I took it home and have put about 80 miles on it since. Is it possible it's got bad fuel or water?
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So I'm stumped I have an 04 6 liter and I have no power to my fuel pump. My fuse under my Dash is good which is a 20 amp fuse which is number 40. My inertia switch is not tripped and I have power to it however my fuel pump does not have power what else could it be? Is there a relay somewhere else?
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