Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loud Pop / Boot Blow Off And Smoke Entering The Cab And Under The Hood
Mar 20, 2017
I was heading back into town the other day after fueling I accelerated to pass a vehicle then a pop not as loud as a boot blow off followed by smoke entering the cab and under the hood. After going into neutral and keeping the engine on to maintain brake power I came to a rest in a safe area. I was reading online some people rebuild these but I'm a bit hesitant given the tight tolerances of this part and currently leaning towards replacing the cartridge they sell at riff raff (500 plus new hardware) instead of the whole turbo (850). Now it's time to start cleaning the engine/undercarriage after the 255 mile tow home.
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So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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just installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
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After some diag I got the A/C to blow out the front vents. There are million threads on this issue half of them are never figured out. This is the second time I have come across this problem so will make this really informative for those who have this problem. If you A/C blows to defrost, yes most of the time its going to be a vacuum leak issue.
Step 1) turnkey on engine off, stand by passenger fender and listen.. can you hear the pump running? If it is your pump isn’t dead.
Step 2) does the pump run for 30 seconds then shut off? You may not have a vacuum leak. If keep’s running for ever you have a leak. Inspect all lines, especially those going down to the hubs for cracks. Also inspect vacuum lines under passenger glovebox.
Step 3) can’t find a leak? Disconnect the line going to the ESOF solenoid and plug it, if you pump stops running then your ESOF solenoid has an internal leak. That was my problem 6 months ago, replaced ESOF, A/C blows normally.
Try This Second! So my AC isn't blowing through my front vents again.... (more diag)
AC not blowing through vents and can’t find a vacuum leak? Take off glove box door, turn AC control switch to floor/defrost/front vents, watch the metal arm connected to the side of the big black box move up and down into various positions. I noticed on mine the arm will go down in positions (floor or defrost) But it will not move up! Which needs to happen to switch to front vents. If I push the rod up by hand manually, the ac will blow through front vents, and stay blowing through front vents even after I let go. PIC of metal arm thing connected to diaphragm, which changes air flow by moving flap inside the big black box
I am guessing the Diaphragm is the issue? The truck will continue to blow from the front vents even when the truck is shut off and restarted, it will stop when I switch the ac to a different position, it will not return back to front vents.
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Looking for a blower that moves more air? My A/c is cold but doesn't blow good. I can feel it in the front seat but not good. It has been changed before by the po.
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3L w/superchips programmer, k+n cold air intake. Does NOT smoke a lot from tailpipe
Not running rough since I changed my oil to rotella 5w-40w synthetic.
Appears to have good amount of blow by coming from the oil fill when engine is warm.
Can Bad Injector O Ring(s) cause blow by and oil consumption?
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Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
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Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
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Just noticed a sound of air sucking sound under the hood on heavy acceleration only, the harder I push the louder it gets. Either sucking or hissing sound. I feel no difference in driving. No loss of power or anything else. Just the sound of air coming out like a leaking air line. I will check later this afternoon if its affecting my turbo boost. I have 235000 klms on the clock
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I have a 7.3 Excursion, 234K Miles, 4R100 Transmission. Today I was in a rush to take one of our dogs to the vet, when I hit overdrive going up a hill, it almost sounded like a clicking noise and I was steadily losing power. I came to a stop sign and put it in park and it started to develop a constant lope that was rough. Whenever I would step on the gas it would put out white smoke which it has never done before. I was able to take it a couple miles before it did the same thing except this time it shut itself off.
Recently I have been having transmission issues as it feels im losing first gear. A while back I noticed it would idle slightly in park every now and then. A couple days before this happened, I came to a stop and my truck started loping slightly and first gear IN DRIVE felt very very weak. I have recently replaced the cam position sensor as well as the ICP sensor. I'm at a loss, I plan to do a ZF6 transmission swap very soon and this is only making me panic even more.
I never dog the truck, take it mudding, etc. Oil is changed every 3-4,000 miles. I did however get it scanned a while back and I believe two codes came up for two pistons, also did an injector buzz test and they all sounded strong.
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My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
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Normally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
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Bought the x in feb, put in the billeted wheel, modified the turbo pedestal, put in dorman uppies, put my boost leak detector on it and had no leaks then. Also put on the walker btm and gauges at that point. Took my chip to a local to get tunes. I was pleased enough with the power, and can hit 24 psi. However, it smokes like a freight train if I give it much pedal. I don't drive it a ton, but in the last week I did a 400 mile trip to pick up a trailer, then 800 miles on vacation in Colorado. The fender flare by the exhaust is now black.
It has to be pulling a trailer or going up a decent hill while cruising at 70 to show any boost at all on the gauge. If I give it gas, it belches out the smoke, unless I get on it and get the boost to 10 or more. Most of the time while cruising along I don't need to speed up that much so it just smokes and doesn't build more than 2 psi boost.
My f350 by comparison usually runs 4-6 psi boost running down the road at 65, and slight movements of the accelerator can affect that number immediately.
I don't have my leak detector with me so I can't verify that I have no leaks right now, but I can still hit 24 psi... Last night I used oven cleaner and got the whole area around the turbo pretty clean. Drove it 60 miles today, and don't see any soot around anything, maybe it's to soon to tell? Is there anything else I should check, or is it as simple as getting new tunes?
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I bought a ts 6 position from kt performance with PHP canned tunes pretty much and on the 140 tune I get no black smoke under throttle, now I would imagine this is normal with stock injectors because im sure the turbo can keep up somewhat. But the problem is I only make 16 psi max so shouldn't I be dumping black smoke? I know the low boost is because I have a hole in the intercooler pipe next to the power steering pump, but do I have low fuel pressure? I would imagine with only 16psi all the fuel will not be burnt. Hpop can hit 2800 and hold 2500. But ipr hit 80% under full throttle at 3k rpm and had trouble shifting but other than that never sees over 45%. I want to know whats going on with the fuel not boost, just to clear things up. And I don't really feel any power loss im stock. 99 f350 7.3 4x4 long bed cc
And just to be clear I am NOT trying to Roll Coal but a nice smoke trail when flooring it past people who cut you off would be nice
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My 2001 7.3 is smoking only when barely on the gas. New fuel filter. Don't know if its possible injector going bad or what? Smoke is white not black.
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Moving my worldly goods from California to Oklahoma in a rented 26' box truck with my wife following in our '02 F350 loaded to the gills with my lathe, mill, air compressor, weld and assorted machinery. Just west of Deming NM it started to blow lots of white smoke and down on power. Some rattling noises from the engine when throttled up & won't reach 3000RPM.
Had it towed to an impound yard for storage. Plan on sending a flat bed to pick it up when we get to Tulsa.
Any experience with a tilt back trailer capable of loading & transporting this truck that weighs around 17,000 pounds? My plan is to continue on to Tulsa & make arrangements from there.
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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I have a 99 F3 50 with the 7.3 L I am done a lot of work to replace the HPOP pump and the ICP sensor as well as the IPR it cranks but does not start it will sputter and smokes but doesn't run SOS. Also there are no dtc in computer....
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