Sometimes in the morning the AC will work just fine, but after a while it stops working. It looks like the clutch will not engage and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I'll take a picture later on today. I'm wondering which part is what, and what might be causing the problem.
View 9 RepliesI am having trouble with my air conditioning system in my 1996 Chevy Lumina. When I turn on the AC, the compressor clutch does not engage and the fans do not spin. I was able to jump the compressor so the clutch engaged, however, the fans still did not spin and the AC was not cold. I then jumped the low pressure cycling switch (near the accumulator), which caused the fans to spin while the compressor was running. However, this still did not produce cold air from the AC and none of the AC lines were cold to the touch. I am starting to think the system is low on Freon, but I do not have gauges to test the pressure.
View 2 RepliesMy new-to-me Explorer appears to switch to 4WD high but refuses to engage 4WD low. And now I have the 6-times-flashing 4WD and 4WD low dash lights when turning the ignition on.
I used the correct procedure: Stop the car, put it in neutral, and switch to 4WD low. Nothing happens.
I looked for a ground wire from the top of the transfer case to the chassis. I can't find any such wire. All the under-hood fuses are intact.
In the process of looking for the ground wire I discovered a capped 3/8 inch or so vacuum hose about 6 inches long with a right angle fitting at the front of the transfer case. I also found a capped 2-foot-long hose of similar size connected to the top of the front differential. What the heck are these hoses? Has somebody intentionally disabled the 4WD?
I am reasonably adept at electrical repairs, troubleshooting, and modifications..
I have a 1999 Winnebago Motorhome on a F53 Ford V10 Chassis and the A/C clutch will not engage when turning on the A/C. I have check the Freon 134A and it appears to be fine (in the red zone) and actually put a jumper across the pressure switch connector (harness side) and it still will not engage. Is there a fuse within the circuit if so, where it may be located?
View 1 RepliesOn my 2001 Excursion the ac clutch went south over the weekend. I replaced the clutch with a factory clutch kit. Now the problems are baffling me.
I set the air gap at .020. The problem being when I turn the ignition switch on and turn on the ac switch the clutch does not engage. I still get cold air. When I start the truck and it runs the clutch is engaged without any problems, I turn it off and the clutch disengages.
So clutch doesn't engage and compressor is not running. I have 12-13v at the low pressure switch and the same at the high. When I jump the low pressure I don't get any voltage at all at the plug that controls the relay for the clutch.
Where I'm confused is:
Is this a low pressure problem - gauge is reading 60psi on the accumulator
Or
Is this electrical somewhere?
I recently purchased a 2003 Grnd Marquis that has EATC climate control. It was a cold day, snowing some and the heater was set to 72 degrees on floor/defrost mix. Several days later it warmed up to over 40 degrees so I decided to try the AC. When I switched over to Max AC, I still only got airflow through the defrost. Any airflow setting (floor, vent, AC, Max AC) only gets airflow through the defrost. Also, the AC clutch did not engage when I set it on Max AC or it is not engaged when set on defrost. Will replacing the EATC head unit fix it? Is this also why the AC compressor clutch does not engage?
View 2 RepliesThe patient: e99 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 "Million Mile" motor, 350k miles.
Symptoms: AC won't engage, low pressure PSI reading is over 85, past my needle's capability.
Story: Bought the truck and found a big fat rock hole in the condenser. Swapped condenser and dryer, vacuumed, oiled, and recharged the system. Worked great for 1 month. Now seems any time I turn the truck off or turn off the AC it sends the low pressure soaring above 85 PSI. If I "De pressurize" the system to normal, Turn the truck on, then the clutch engages, and things go back to normal, then below normal because I just depressurized 2 cans worth of the system. Add two cans and it's good to go.
I just picked up a '94 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I can't figure out what ails the AC. It appears that there should be enough refrigerant (according to my recharge kit), but the compressor clutch will not engage. I have checked the fuses, and all are fine. All other HVAC functions are normal. Is there a way to test the compressor?
View 5 Replies1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
View 6 RepliesSays A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
I have a 94 Ranger with 2.3L motor. Last week my ac quit working. I push the in and the ac light goes on, but the compressor clutch won't engage. I changed the relay, but that didn't work. The fan still works, but the ac does not come on. I tried banging on the compressor pulley, but that didn't do anything. The clutch is not frozen -- it spins freely. The connector looks good and I haven't done any work in the engine compartment so I couldn't have accidentally moved any wiring. What I might try or is my compressor simply dead?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 m5r2 ford f-150 standard transmission. i have replaced the slave cyl., the entire clutch assy., the master cyl. pilot bearing. the trans. will engage all five gears plus reverse while truck is off but will not engage a gear while running. i have bled and bled and bled and still will not engage.
View 1 RepliesThe A/C in my truck stopped working last year, and this year I intend to fix it. I believe the problem is with the compressor clutch because it was making noise as it would engage or disengage. It was making this noise for a good year or so, and then one day the noise stopped and I have no A/C. So I am only assuming its the clutch.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
I have a 1996 Ford Escort that was giving me problems resulting in a new fuel pump and fuel filter, that was improperly installed and got that fixed. It has continued with the problems and they are getting worse. I had the fuel pressure checked, came out fine, then had a full engine diagnostic test, all testing fine. The mechanic suspects a sensor. The car acts like it is going to stall, then just when I think it is going to quit, it kicks in and runs great.
I got bad fuel a while back and it is doing the same behavior except does not quit. It happens very intermittently, now in every driving situation, except since I brought it in. The mechanic said if he checks the sensor when it's not happening, it would be a waste of time and money. Is this true? A faulty sensor will not read as faulty? This town is full of bridges, and the highway has long stretches of nothing and a mountain pass. He is suggesting I drive it until it happens again, then take it in, but that's what I did the first time. Do I really have to wait till it quits in one of these driving scenarios?
1996 Ford Ranger 4-Cyl. 90,000 miles. 5 speed manual transmission. When the truck is driven 10-15 miles and heats up the clutch will seize in the up position. Once the engine is turned off then it can't be turned back on because the clutch won't depress. After the truck has completely cooled down the clutch and the transmission again work fine, as long as I keep any use under about 10 miles.
View 6 RepliesSo I just had my entire clutch replaced while another repair was taking place. What I've noticed is the "clutch engagement" has changed. Where as I would have the clutch start to engage/disengage at the 1/2 way point on the pedal travel is now the last 1/4 of the pedal. Is this a "normal reaction to a new clutch that just takes getting used to or is there an adjustment I can fine turn it with? Do I just have to wait for it to "break in"? When I replaced the clutch on my dearly departed 94 ranger, I replaced the bearings & disc only reusing the pressure plate and did not have this issue.
View 3 RepliesI have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
View 9 RepliesI figured something out on my ranger that has been bugging me for a while it was a third cly misfire so I changed the plugs and it went away for a while.the po told me he had just changed the plug wires so i didn't mess with those and it was an intermittent misfire so i changed the brain box because it was 15.00 at pull and save and it had been all updated boy did it run smooth for a while then the misfire came back. So I decided to check the 3rd cylinder plug wires and found out the one that is hard to change on the drivers side was badly rusted so i borrowed one off my windstar it was a little longer but boy does it run smoother and it doesn't die all the time and chug chug all the time now i just need to change the battery. i have already changed the clutch and the tranny twice i took one out of an 88 and it fit just fine by the way the engine is a 2.3 8 plug engine with over 230,000miles on it my next project is a timing belt and a heater core won't that be fun and yes i smell the antifreeze inside and don't like the stop leak like the last person put in.
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