Ford Aerostar :: 1989 - Metal Particles On Oil Dipstick
Apr 28, 2012
Well, today I was checking the oil in my 1989 Ford Aerostar and noticed that there was more than just oil on my dipstick! I noticed a few small little metal shavings on the dipstick! They looked kinda like tiny pieces of hair, and there were only a few. What this means? I don't hear any noise from the engine (but then again I usually drive with loud music so I may be missing something). I have been trying to listen to the engine recently though. The vehicle seems to drive good, no overheating. The oil itself is quite black, in fact it looks like chocolate syrup.
No doubt the engine could use an oil change, which I'll be doing as soon as I get my paycheck. When I bought the vehicle it needed a quart of oil (which I added) but I've been driving it quite a lot since then and it hasn't been loosing oil. But now I'm worried about these shavings. Has my engine seen better days or is this just normal tear on an engine this old. I'm not sure how many miles are on the vehicle, odometer says it has just slightly over 3000 miles, but its one of these old 5 digit odometers so I have no idea if that's 103000, 203000 or 303000.
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I have a 2011 Ford F-350 with 6.7L I have had cooling issues when pulling a trailer up a grade it heats up where it hadn't in the past. I had it in the shop 4 times before it went out of warranty and they changed the oil cooler and thermostat. The last time it was in the shop was November which it was to cold out to duplicate problem. It's heating up on just about every grade and now it's out of warranty when it should have been fixed last year.
I'm guessing it's the water pump because when I changed the antifreeze there was metal shavings in it. I told my dealer about it and they said it was probably from manufacturing. I haven't called dealer yet because I think it should be covered under warranty since the problem was never fixed after being in the shop last year!
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I changed my oil and found some metal particles in there... not a whole lot, but if you look at the oil pan in the sun you can definitely see a "glittery" effect... the particles are nowhere near big enough to be able to feel in your finger, but you can see them....
I have already dropped the oil pan and inspected the crank bearings... they all look good.. I did not remove the rod caps, I didn't want to dig into it too far, but now I am at a point where I am thinking.. maybe I should tear it all down and find the source..
I need a new clutch, not sure why the clutch didnt last more than 9000 miles, but I was told it should be covered.. And with that.. since I need to drop the trans anyhow.. and I need to find the source of metal... Maybe I should just remove the entire engine/trans together and make one big job out of it??
I really am hoping it's the turbo putting metal into the oil since that is the newest unit of the system.. and it would be covered under warranty as well.. Tough decision really.. I admit the 3.2 VR6 is a bit overwhelming when it comes to disassembly.. not to mention all the fasteners that need to be replaced...
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I may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
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Aero, 3.0 Shorty 1989
put a new radiator in my truck, as the original one finally had a small crack.. (I've kept it, since it is brass or copper!)
I put a new 192 T-stat in there too, (OEM temp)
but, now it seems that the van is running hotter than it did before!
when I had the original rad in there, it would never get above the R in the Normal word... now it runs at about M (high middle)
Also, when I tryed to burp it, I'd top it off, but then it would put the extra in the overflow tank, and only stays full up to the very bottom of the filler neck.
this is a plastic radiator... is that what the difference is?
I used to be able to top off the old tank, and it would be right at the top whenever I opened the cap... not so with this one>?
wondering if I should go down to like a 180 degree t-stat? gauge still stays normal - but if it's correct, it's about 50 degress difference.
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1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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My wife's 89 Aerostar is leaking brake fluid from the back side of what is either the distribution block or combination valve. I am not sure which it is but it is the first block you run into following the lines from the master cylinder and it is right below it near the fender well.
The part has been discontinued and is too expensive anyway so I am looking for input as to what this peice is and if / how to rebuild it.
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Recently, with below 0 temperatures. there have been a couple of times where my van has trouble starting. I would turn the key forward and here a loud knock coming from the starter solenoid and nothing else. but after a couple of tries, it will crank and start right up no problem. so i figured maybe it just has to do with cold weather? but today it wouldn't budge at all. I've been doing some research and came across the possibility that my engine has seized.
I realized that after replacing the radiator, i never checked my oil level since my engine was over-heating prior to the fix and when i checked it today i found that it is a quart low. I guess, what my question is what would be the issue? is my engine really seized or is it the starter or solenoid? could it be some other electrical issue? what are the steps i could take in finding the problem?
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Have a 95 aero E4wd. Have replace driver side cv axle and drove about 8 miles then the outer joint broke. Had mech change cv axle and drove about 2 miles and the inside broke.. Same mech replace it and drove 3 mile and heard like rubber on metal like a flat tire. The cv axle did not break and won't turn when in gear. Back to shop with aero. Lifted on lift and jacked up front and rear. Turned the driver side and the passenger turned with it also it turned easy. Started it up and placed in gear, all were rotation except driver side , it was hung up. What should be fixed on diff?
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1989 Shorty - 3.0
problem with washer fluid - the motor seems to work, but nothing comes out of the tubes...
I know the motor works, cuz there is water all over the engine compartment (near the battery) and down... soaked there...
so, my guess is that the rubber has come off the pump? where is the pump first off, and second, how do I get to all that? - just remove the cowl?
any diagrams or photos would be great!
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This is my first personal diesel so first one I've done maintenance on.
Bought the truck with almost 15k miles, it now has just over 16k and I changed the filters when I noticed the underhood filter was the original 3 port style.
There were some very small particles in the DFCM. Maybe dirt from dirty fuel nozzles?
Guessing this is nothing to be worried about?
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I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
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I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
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What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
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I have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.
My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?
Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?
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I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....
Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.
This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.
2004 F150 FX4 ....
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My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
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Just last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
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Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
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I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
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