Ford Aerostar :: 1989 - No Crank / Loud Knock Coming From Starter Solenoid
Feb 10, 2014
Recently, with below 0 temperatures. there have been a couple of times where my van has trouble starting. I would turn the key forward and here a loud knock coming from the starter solenoid and nothing else. but after a couple of tries, it will crank and start right up no problem. so i figured maybe it just has to do with cold weather? but today it wouldn't budge at all. I've been doing some research and came across the possibility that my engine has seized.
I realized that after replacing the radiator, i never checked my oil level since my engine was over-heating prior to the fix and when i checked it today i found that it is a quart low. I guess, what my question is what would be the issue? is my engine really seized or is it the starter or solenoid? could it be some other electrical issue? what are the steps i could take in finding the problem?
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I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
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When braking from very low speed to full stop (f.e. parking maneuvers), i often hear a loud "pop" coming from the front brakes, regardless of steering direction. I'm pretty sure this has been discussed before here but can't find a thread.
Brakes are otherwise working good (front & rear) but it's time to do a maintenance just to be safe.
97' XLT RWD, 3.0L Vulcan, 99890miles - can't wait to see turning over to 100'000.. hope, i do not miss the moment
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The wife drove the Excursion (V10) to work today and it ran normal and didn't have any loud noises coming from under the hood. When she started the engine to return home it immediately started knocking. This is not a ping, but a knock. Not a loud heavy knock, but much louder than a ping. It has a fast frequency, seems too fast to be a rod knocking. The frequency is similar to a valve issue, but the knock seems to be too heavy for lifters. Oil looks good. Just changed out 2 weeks ago. Truck is driven everyday.
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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I noticed a rough idle after driving an hour with a 6000 lb trailer and stopped at an offramp. Had no performance issues to that point in an hour drive. Then I noticed a good amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The idle felt just like when I had a contribution/balance code on #5 a year ago, and a new injector fixed that. Before long (10-20 minutes later) the idle got real loud, like a big knock/loud tick every revolution.
I had a bunch of stored codes, so I reset them and later found a P0281 - Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance and P0404 - EGR control circuit range/performance were the 2 that came back. I drove it 2 more hours to get home. It ran well under load, but coasting or stopped gave the loud knock, and stopped and idling was a rough, inconsistent idle. It even stalled on me 3 times when braking for a red light (auto trans). There was a lot of white smoke all the time, plus a little dark smoke on acceleration.
What would you recommend for troubleshooting steps? I could put a new injector in #7 and clean the EGR valve, but want to have a good idea that will fix it first. Is there a good chance I have a messed up piston in #7 now?
Codes I cleared:
P0148 Fuel delivery error
P0234 turbo overboost (i know i need to pull and clean the turbo anyway, unrelated to today's issue)
P0281 Cylinder 7 contribution/Balance
P0404 EGR control circuit range/performance
P0670 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
P0683 Glow plug (I had the module unplugged a while ago)
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So this just started happening last night and I haven't had time yet to get the car in a rack. There is now a fairly loud knock (changes frequency with speed) coming from under my right foot while coasting in gear. It does not affect steering, braking, handling (from what I can tell), or acceleration. The knock it not there while coasting in neutral. My concern is that it may be a mount that is loose.
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I just replaced my starter solenoid and I'm getting nothing. When 12 volts are applied directly from the battery to the solenoid, the engine wants to turn (granted my batteries are weak) however when I turn the key to start, after waiting for the "wait to start" light to go off and hearing the glow plug click, I turn the key and I get absolutely nothing. No click, nothing. Is there a possibility my ignition is bad?
Would the "wait to start" and glow plug keep working if this were true? Electrical is not exactly my forte'. Before I replaced the solenoid, the bad one had a broken post but the truck would still start most of the time, and when it wouldn't I just connected the two large posts on the solenoid with channel locks or pliers or whatever was handy. I put the new one in exactly the same way the old one came out. I only undid one bolt and set of wires at a time so I wouldn't screw the order up, so I'm at a loss.
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Yesterday after work, i got in my truck and it started right up, no problem. my stereo has been giving me some fits the past few days, looks like everything is on but no sound, and was thinking it might be a fuse so i proceeded to shut off my truck and take a quick look at the fuse box. didn't find anything quickly fuse wise, so i got back in the truck to go home and turned the key and nothing. no whine from the starter, no click click click like a dead battery, but i do here a single click from the relay switch as i left the case off to do a more thorough investigation on the stereo when i got home. anyway.. here is all i have ran through.
1. Made sure the battery is good, even tried jumping it for good measure..took cables off and made sure they had clean connections.
2. Switched out the relay, and fuses related to the starter in fuse box.
3. Put the truck in Neutral, thinking safety switch.. wiggled it around while trying to start it as well
4. Crawled under the truck, took a screw driver and bypassed the switch all together to make sure it wasn't the starter, starter kicked in like it was new, but no truck start. (key was in the on position)
5. Checked the solenoid post with a test light to see if it had power on key turn, nothing.
6. Checked the fuse box and surrounding wires to make sure i didn't bump anything when taking off the cover..
From all of this it sounds like some safety switch that isn't giving power, otherwise i would have thought the truck would have started when i bypassed the switch on the solenoid. Just seems very odd the timing of it and i have not had any previous issues like this.. just out of the blue, literally less than 5 minutes from starting the truck without issue.
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the other day i was driving with no music on my GS and i noticed every time i came to a complete stop, the brakes would produce a weird loud knock sound. it was rainning so i thought it would be from that... but then after driving it roughly 5-7miles the sound stopped... then since i noticed it, i hoped on my corolla to see if it had the same thing but no... only on my GS.. is this normal?
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Aero, 3.0 Shorty 1989
put a new radiator in my truck, as the original one finally had a small crack.. (I've kept it, since it is brass or copper!)
I put a new 192 T-stat in there too, (OEM temp)
but, now it seems that the van is running hotter than it did before!
when I had the original rad in there, it would never get above the R in the Normal word... now it runs at about M (high middle)
Also, when I tryed to burp it, I'd top it off, but then it would put the extra in the overflow tank, and only stays full up to the very bottom of the filler neck.
this is a plastic radiator... is that what the difference is?
I used to be able to top off the old tank, and it would be right at the top whenever I opened the cap... not so with this one>?
wondering if I should go down to like a 180 degree t-stat? gauge still stays normal - but if it's correct, it's about 50 degress difference.
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My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
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Well, today I was checking the oil in my 1989 Ford Aerostar and noticed that there was more than just oil on my dipstick! I noticed a few small little metal shavings on the dipstick! They looked kinda like tiny pieces of hair, and there were only a few. What this means? I don't hear any noise from the engine (but then again I usually drive with loud music so I may be missing something). I have been trying to listen to the engine recently though. The vehicle seems to drive good, no overheating. The oil itself is quite black, in fact it looks like chocolate syrup.
No doubt the engine could use an oil change, which I'll be doing as soon as I get my paycheck. When I bought the vehicle it needed a quart of oil (which I added) but I've been driving it quite a lot since then and it hasn't been loosing oil. But now I'm worried about these shavings. Has my engine seen better days or is this just normal tear on an engine this old. I'm not sure how many miles are on the vehicle, odometer says it has just slightly over 3000 miles, but its one of these old 5 digit odometers so I have no idea if that's 103000, 203000 or 303000.
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1989 3.0 shorty - 135K on her - and at 21 years old, the original radiator finally failed with a hair line crack, and so I bought a plastic on, from on of the part stores, put it in, and now it takes on like a gallon a month of antifreeze.
BUT I see no leak at all... the engine runs fine, and not head gasket or crack head (been there done that with the explorer I have). I don't smell it either really -heater core is dry... as is floor underneath. Need replacing the Radiator?
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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89 3.0L - I seem to loose a little bit of coolant every time I drive maybe like 1/2 a pint?
I checked every connection - engine running, and even waited to make sure the t-stat was opening, and closed, etc (maybe it was the top hose, nope)
I did replace the radiator a couple of years ago, and had the problem ever since I did that, but at the same time, I also replaced the T-Stat with a 165 degree, since she was starting to run a bit on the hot side, even with the new water pump and radiator I did... on a cool day, it would run at the middle of the gauge with a 190 degree... and with AC on, hills and 95 degree days, it would be pushing upwards of 3/4 of the way on the gauge...
Could the 165 degree therm stat be somehow causing a 13 lb cap to not function properly? I replaced the original with a Stant... but Im thinking I should get a new Motorcraft OEM cap, since the other one lasted 20 years!
I kept the old radiator - love it - "wow real brass/copper in there!" it was still fine when I pulled it, but had a hairline crack right below the top hose area...
Anyways, pressure tests revel nothing, I see no bubbles or anything with the engine idling, cap off
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My wife's 89 Aerostar is leaking brake fluid from the back side of what is either the distribution block or combination valve. I am not sure which it is but it is the first block you run into following the lines from the master cylinder and it is right below it near the fender well.
The part has been discontinued and is too expensive anyway so I am looking for input as to what this peice is and if / how to rebuild it.
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Well it all started when I was having starter issues my starter died and my solenoid was just clicking and after time there was no power at all to anything in the truck i have replaced the solenoid and starter and check battery and cleaned post and terminals. I am going to replace my negative cable as it was pretty bad but if this still does not work, so what to look for. The truck is an 87 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed with a 2.9....
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I've traced the problem to the starter/solenoid. Battery is good, all dash light power up, but when turning the key to start nothing happens. There is 12v at the signal wire on the solenoid when the key is turned to start. Hitting the starter with the handle of a hammer will get it to engage.
I believe the problem is the solenoid, although it could be the brushes on the actual motor. I've attached a picture of the starter. It looks like the solenoid is a sealed unit; i.e. I can't replace the contacts like the older generation starters. If in fact you can't take apart the solenoid, advice on replacing the solenoid vs. the entire starter? Car has ~125000 on it.
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2012 Santa Fe all of a sudden won't engage starter. First thing in morning it usually cranks. But once I turn it off it won't crank again. When I turn the key I have full power so it's not the battery or terminals. There's no cracking or popping sound, just a whine like the starter's not engaging. Never had any problems with this car so far. I'm thinking maybe it's the starter solenoid.
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