Ford Aerostar :: 1994 - Strange Noise When Takeoff Normal Or Fast
Dec 8, 2008
Srange noises of my 1994 AWD. When driving, if I take off fast, it makes a lot of pop noise, but if I take off slowly, then It's Ok. Or when I make a quick acceleration after slowing down then it make noise, but if I take it fairly slow then it's OK. The frequency is getting worse. My front axles are in good condition (30K miles on a rebuilt pair). I have unplugged the AWD controller box, it didn't do any difference. All gear shipped OK. So what is that noise in that condition? My 94 AWD is about 110k miles, good shocks.
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Vehicle: 01 F150 5.4 4wd
issue: snapping sound like crushing tin can at take off and now at a fast stop.
Repairs already done:
upper control arms
lower ball joints
Sway bar link and bushing
4wd cv axle shaft assembly (both side )
Slip yoke grease.
Tie rod ends replace inner and outer
I put the truck an a lift and put it on drive and there is no sound.
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Starting a hot engine in my 94 3.0L RWD occasionally produces a low- pitch 'wah-wah-wah' groaning noise that goes away after 3-4 seconds. It sounds like it's coming from the engine itself and what I'm hearing is an engine running without sufficient oil. It has never happened on cold starts, but about 30-40% of the time when restarting, like at a gas station after fill up, etc. I live in sunny San Diego so I put 10W40 in at the last oil change. It's also currently overfilled by about a quart--I intend to remedy, but have not gotten around to it yet. Could it be the viscosity or quantity of oil? It's a real sphincter puckerer of a sound and I want to get it resolved.
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What would cause the front wheel on drivers side to lock up if it isn't the brakes. have been hearing a loud popping noise for a while on drivers side especially when turning left. Today got really loud just driving and then a real loud grinding noise. Then a loud pop and front wheel locked up and skidded across highway til i came to a stop. What it could be or how can i at least get wheel to turn to get it on trailer...
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I have a 2012 Ford Taurus when I turn the ac on it goes fast and then back to normal every like 3-5 seconds. It blows cold air and it doesn't matter the speed of the ac it speeds up and slow back to normal. Has 49100 miles...
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Is there any way the front blower can be wired to run or spin FASTER? The rear blower in my 1997 spins fast enough but the front could use a 5th speed. I have interchanged blowers and Resistors from rear to front, but no change, both resistors and blowers are identical. I remember one time a residential a/c tech showed me how to rewire the air handler blower in my apt. to make it run faster and the result was amazing, though he did explain the life of the blower would be shortened, I never had any problem. Does the same principle apply to a 12V automotive blower?
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Having an intermittent strange sound coming from the fuel pump from its normal whine at start up to a gurgling sound almost like you are blowing back through the fuel line back into the tank. Going on a 300 mile trip, should I hold off?
Btw: it's a 1996 Aerostar 3.0L
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1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
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My 93 with 210K miles threw a new one at me the other day. Not 1 mile from work with AC running, it started stumbling a bit at around 40MPH. I just assumed it was the AC cycling and the Van was in OD. Dropped into D and drove her on home.
Well this morning was round 2.... got about 2 miles from home and it started stumbling again (no AC this time). Just happened to look down at my digital dash and the speed was jumping all over, finally settling on 0 MPH. I got about a mile down the interstate and it suddenly reactivated and displayed 70mph.... smooth as silk.
OK, so I know that the rear diff. has a sensor for ABS, and obviously a pulse wheel on the diff. Is this sensor the input for speed? From other makes, I understand the pulse train input is "conditioned" in another device ( hardware) which then outputs to the dash display.
Based on these assumptions, I'm going to assume the crazy speed variation was playing hell with the ECU. When it settled on 0 mph it was happy again. Can't just be a display issue as there would have been no stumble. Getting ready to drive her about 3.5 hours this weekend to go trout fishing.... obviously the cruise won't work but otherwise it appears to function WITHOUT the speed input.
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My truck is a 2004 F350 6.0 as with most of the ford diesels from this era it has hydro boot brakes.
Under normal braking the truck felt fine and the brakes behaved as they always have. However if you where to depress the brakes hard, as if making an emergency stop, the brakes would not lock up in the way they did when I bought the truck two years and 80,000km ago. The problem was slow to appear and at first I blamed it on the larger tiers I was running (stock 2012 F350 wheels and tires (yes the offset is wrong)) but after switching back to my stock wheels for the winter I knew that something was not right. It was something I could live with, it did not make the tuck unsafe it was just that it did not stop as well as I knew it could and this avowed me. I replaced the front and rear calipers and when that had no effect I swapped out the master cylinder this still made little difference.
I drove the company truck all of last month (2008 GMC 2500 Duramax) and when I got back in mine I realised that I had to chase down the problem. I did a lot of reading online and after thoroughly flushing and bleeding my brake system I narrowed my problem down to either the hydro booster or the power steering pump. The plan we came up with for diagnosing was:
1. Thoroughly inspect for PS/Hydro boost and brake fluid leaks following the procedure found here Hydro-Boost Power Assist Systems: Operation Diagnosis and Repair
1a. Consider bleeding the brakes as a bit of trapped air would cause your symptoms.
1.b Consider flushing the PS system. Some suggest this works with tough steering.
2. Have a shop check the PS pressure is within spec. (assuming this is cheaper than buying the tool or just replacing the pump) If it is low, replace the PS pump.
3. If PS pump is fine, or is replaced and the problem is still there, consider replacing the Hydro booster.
It is not super complete but it was a place to start. We checked for leaks and found nothing. The pedal would not sink under braking but would say firm meaning the brake system was free of leaks.
I began a rudimentary test of power steering pump. With the truck in the drive way I could easily turn the steering wheel however, applying the breaks about half way would make turning the wheel imposable. This led me to believe the power steering pump was starting to go. The next step would be to have the pump tested using a power steering pressure gage or take the truck to a shop to have it tested. I found the pressure gage to be more expensive then the new pump so went that way. With 350,000km on the truck I figured it was not a bad thing to do even if it turned out to not be the cause of the problem.
It is a bit tricky to get the power steering pump out but after pulling the radiator line under the truck I could drop the pump out the bottom. The new pump went back in the same way and after a full flush and bleed of the system it was time for a test. What a difference! The truck stops like the day I got it. If your symptoms are like mine I would recommend you check the power steering pump. If it is the problem it is a lot cheaper then replacing a master cylinder or calipers.
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My 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
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It is a garage queen 1994 4.0 AWD with 42,000 miles in nearly perfect shape. Except for the dent in the rear on the passenger side.
I have posted a picture of the dash when going down the road. As you see the engine light is on. It comes on intermittently, pulled the codes, indicated MAF, 02 sensor, running lean/rich. Runs like a champ, no hesitation, still gets up and goes, gets the appropriate gas mileage. I replaced the 02 sensor with the original Ford Part. Didn't cause the engine light to stop going on after about 20 to 60 minutes driving, sometimes it doesn't come on at all.
Could this thermostat be running too cool and causing the engine to throw those codes? Would gladly take it to a mechanic, but seems like it might be a fishing trip with my dollars for them. Next I was going to replace the MAS myself, easily done with the original remanufactured part at a cost of 150.00, 70 for the core, but don't want to chase my tail with these engine lights on when it runs nearly perfect.
Have sprayed the MAF. Checked for air leaks anywhere. Done all the things I could do by just lifting the hood.
So the picture shows the Temp gauge barely touching the N flying down the road at 70 on a level surface, outside temp about 60. Reading the posts says they all run in the cool section of the temp gauge.
So the question is, do they run this cool? Heater works fine and the gauge goes up past the N resting before the O when going up hills on the way to Tahoe. Is this a thermostat problem on a 20 year vehicle with low mileage, or am I going to have to bite the bullet and let the mechanic go wandering through the vehicle?
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Was driving issue free most of day, when leaving a red light I noticed my i had to give the van some extra gas to get up and go, then i could feel the brakes getting tighter and tighter to the point where I had to park the van. So currently my van is sitting in a parking lot 30 miles from home with locked up front brakes. Both driver and passenger front wheels were hot to the touch.
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1994 - 3.0 .... Back behind the water pump there is a stream of coolant what could that be. Water pump has been replaced earlier last year I thought that fixed it,there has always been a mystery leak..
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2 or 3 years ago my airbag light started blinking. 120,000 miles, only owner. The code changes daily. Then the car started reviving at highway speeds. Then cruise control wasn't reliable. Sometimes when I hit a bump, the cruise goes off. My mechanic said the reviving felt like it was going in and out of overdrive, so he rebuilt the transmission. No change. This past month, the car started to pull to the right. It felt like I was driving with the brake on, couldn't get up a small hill. Before I could get the car home, the brakes went to the floor and the car stalled. I had it towed to mechanic.
After 10 days, he couldn't duplicate problem, so I took the car back. A few days later, after 4 hours of errands in the hot Texas sun, it did it again for me. Pulled to the right, driving with the brake on feel, brakes to the floor. This time it smelled like something was burning, either brakes, belt or something, and the rear ABS light came on for the first time. Latest mechanic says it is probably a brake booster, but that doesn't explain the reviving does it? I've had it to 2 dealers, 3 mechanics, and no one has a clue what to check apparently. I am a senior, so I can't really start replacing everything. What should I tell them to check, and in what order? I love my Aerostar....
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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My 1994 Aerostar, with 100,000 miles on it, started lurching at highway speeds. Weeks before this, the airbag light began blinking. The transmission man said it felt like it was shifting into overdrive, then out, then into overdrive, then out, etc.,etc. About this time, the cruise control quit being reliable. Dealership said codes didn't show a problem, "I must be mistaken". Then they said it sounded like a fuel filter.
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I just bought a 94 Anniversary Edition that came with an aftermarket remote start. I upgraded the module so I could get better range and would like to connect the rear window defrost to it. I have the trunk release feature on the module and since it isn't in use figured I could use that function for the defrost. The module has a negative output. What wire in the defrost switch would I connect to and would I need a relay to convert the negative pulse to positive? The winters here get extremely cold.
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Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
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On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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