Ford Aerostar :: 1997 - Lot Of Cranking Required To Get Started
Dec 5, 2012
Lately my '97 Aerostar has required a lot of cranking to get started. Like...sometimes 15-20 seconds before it fires. If I get it started, drive somewhere, shut it down, and then a few minutes later try to start it, it starts right up.
-Interesting: I've discovered that I can start it if I crank it 15-20 seconds. But I can start it far quicker if I crank for about 5 seconds, stop, and then crank it again. Then it typically starts right up.
It has done this on rare occasion for the past few years, but lately it is becoming the Norm, so something is wrong.
Hmm. Leaking injector comes to mind, but the oil doesn't smell like gas.
What is the failure mode of the fuel pump, and do I really have to remove the drive shaft and drop the tank to change the fuel pump?
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Am I getting this MRL when first cranking because the odometer is at 4500 and it is telling me my tire rotation is due soon?
2014 Camry LE
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I have a 2006 Nissan Frontier v6 4L 4x4 The truck ran great with no problems other then the fuel sending unit was bad so my gas guage was always wrong. I purchased a replacement sending unit and dropped the tank, removed the fuel pump, and finally replaced the bad fuel sending unit. My gas guage works now, but I noticed it took a few extra seconds to start...it cranked and cranked...then finally started. This is not how is was before. I thought maybe it was due to fuel needing to run through the lines. I thought nothing of it and drove off.
Everywhere I parked...I always returned to extra cranking to get the car to start. A day later I decided to look for kinks in the lines. I thought I found one, so after dropping the tank, making sure everything was secure and routing the lines...i bolted it all back together...But now it won't even start. The truck cranks and cranks, but there is no start. I was thinking of dropping the tank half way to make sure the electrical connector was on....
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I've got a 1993 Ford Aerostar XLT. Was running great until yesterday, when I turned the ignition and got nothing but a click every time the key was turned. Checked the battery (had power), bridged the relay (just got clicks but didn't turn over)....so I concluded the starter was bad.
I installed a new starter motor/starter Selinoid today. The van started right up, but next start the engine kept cranking (even while van was running and after shutting off)...I had to disconnect the battery cable for it to stop. Next start the problem didn't persist...but the time after that it happened again.
Any thoughts as to what is going on, or where to start in tackling this problem?
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The maintenance required light just started flashing on our Camry last night.
It just went to the dealer at 4,200 mi for an "early" oil change (I had wanted an early oil change done, and the the dealer said it wasn't required til 10,000 miles). So no new oil.
It's about 7 months old, and mostly driven on short trips - our other car is used for the long trips. Tires were rotated @ last service.
Does it actually want an oil change? I'd take it to the dealer, but their next appointment is 2 weeks out.
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2 or 3 years ago my airbag light started blinking. 120,000 miles, only owner. The code changes daily. Then the car started reviving at highway speeds. Then cruise control wasn't reliable. Sometimes when I hit a bump, the cruise goes off. My mechanic said the reviving felt like it was going in and out of overdrive, so he rebuilt the transmission. No change. This past month, the car started to pull to the right. It felt like I was driving with the brake on, couldn't get up a small hill. Before I could get the car home, the brakes went to the floor and the car stalled. I had it towed to mechanic.
After 10 days, he couldn't duplicate problem, so I took the car back. A few days later, after 4 hours of errands in the hot Texas sun, it did it again for me. Pulled to the right, driving with the brake on feel, brakes to the floor. This time it smelled like something was burning, either brakes, belt or something, and the rear ABS light came on for the first time. Latest mechanic says it is probably a brake booster, but that doesn't explain the reviving does it? I've had it to 2 dealers, 3 mechanics, and no one has a clue what to check apparently. I am a senior, so I can't really start replacing everything. What should I tell them to check, and in what order? I love my Aerostar....
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My 1994 Aerostar, with 100,000 miles on it, started lurching at highway speeds. Weeks before this, the airbag light began blinking. The transmission man said it felt like it was shifting into overdrive, then out, then into overdrive, then out, etc.,etc. About this time, the cruise control quit being reliable. Dealership said codes didn't show a problem, "I must be mistaken". Then they said it sounded like a fuel filter.
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I had the engine out of my truck (7.3 with e4od) to do manifolds. Anyway, I got it back in and started it up. Since there was air in th fuel lines it had to crank a couple seconds but started up. I looked and now fluid coming out, then it sat for a few minutes running and I took it for a drive. While sitting in the driveway it wa smoking a bit. But I thought it's from the oil I got in the exhaust while drilling two of the manifold bolts and soaking the bolts with ATF/acetone. After about half a mile I thought that maybe it's more oil then that would cause... So I went back. I looked and the inside of the exhaust is covered with oil, and the rear of the engine is also.
When it was out I capped all of the open ports so I could pressure wash the grease off. Also, I flipped the CCV so I could do the delete. During instal, I missed the cap on the CCV and it was not able to breath. I think that maybe it built up pressure and blew the valve cover gasket? It looks like it's coming from the right cover on the backside; I had not taken this cover off while the engine was out. How much pressure does it build? Is it possible that it could have blown the gasket out? I have done the oil cap trick to test blowby and it always passed the test. What it could be? For the leak on the engine and why it's in the exhaust?
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About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
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I have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
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1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
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I have a 97 4x4 that just recently stopped shifting into OD. I also noticed that I can no longer switch OD on or off on the end of the gear selector. The litle LED light does not turn on or off. Where to start? Just took it on the freeway and the engine sounded like it was working a little harder than normal to be at speed. Confirmed through gas mileage.....
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Went out to start my car today it had a rough time cranking over and when It started had a cel and in limp mode.
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1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
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97 3.0 2WD, Where is the differential vent or does it even have one? I've got a rear axle seal leaking.
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My 1997 Aerostar's cruise control is not working. Horn is functional however. I've checked fuses and they seem to be ok. What could my problem be?
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Where the fuel filter for a 1997 ford aerostar is located? I have been told it is under the driver side near the front tire. I cannot find it anywhere. Is it near the middle by the transmission? I would like to see a schematic also?
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78,000 miles on odometer. The van starts and runs great. Always has. No change in performance since check engine light went on. Took it to local parts store here in California. They used to run codes here but can't any longer for the usual reasons. I replaced the EGR valve because I knew it was due and disconnected the battery and started the van. Light was off. Drove it a few times and it came back on again. Still runs fine though. I heard the Aerostar may kick a code off simply because it's due for a plug change. I think the plugs are original so I'm going to replace them. Plug wires too.
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On my 1997 XLT 4.0 the Oil Pressure Gauge (yes, I know it is not a real pressure gauge) started fluctuating down and up rapidly. Revving the engine does not seem to affect it. Oddly, it does not do it for the first few seconds after startup, until the idle stabilizes and lowers.
I checked the connection on the wire to the sending sensor, it looks clean.
Main concern - is this just the sending unit failing, or is it the Oil Pump? Do I need a mechanic to test the actual oil pressure?
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97 Aerostar 3.0. Factory A/C system staying on defrost. Going to check and replace as necessary all under hood vacuum lines as soon as it cools down. I can already see some cracks in the plastic lines.
But. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? Is it the one I can see from under the hood or in some impossible location?
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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