AC recharge seemed to be when problem started. But... If I do NOT run the AC unit and drive it with VENT open there seems to be no smell. When I run the AC the smell appears. Since the AC system is supposed to be(I think) a closed under pressure system why would I get a gas smell ONLY when the AC is running? Starting /stopping it gets a bit worse. Baffled here but that's nothing new...
View 2 RepliesI don't drive this car often. I primarily use it for towing a 6000 lb trailer during the "good" season. I drive it once a week during the off season to keep the rust off and the "blood running".
NOW its got some kind of gas fume issue. No DTC's set. Windows up, fan on low, Nothing on startup. Nothing when driving. I smell it slightly when at a stop light and then it fades away. I smell it strongly when backing up to park.
Almost as if it has something to do with fuel sloshing around in the tank. There is no visible fuel on the ground. But it doesn't take a large amount of fuel to make a BIG smell. Fuel cap is tight. I am averaging 19-20 mpg. (I drive like an old man). Where do I start?
I have an '04 f150 4x4 5.4L lariat new body style, I purchased it a few months ago. (I had an '03 f150 4x4 5.4L lariat that I am comparing the new one to) It seems like this 04 doesnt want to get up and go,(like the '03 did) best way to describe it is like having a potato stuck in the tail pipe. then after driving it for a few weeks I got CEL I think it was P0140, the day I was going to change bank 1&2 sensors 2, the code went away. So I didn't change them.
I instead opted to change the plugs (all plugs came out fine) now I notice a fuel smell when I let off the accelerator,(not sure if I smelled it before) its like a boat exhaust smell- not a raw fuel smell. I am wondering if all these things add up to a clogged or partially clogged cat or just a bad o2 sensor, I dont to spent $100+ for the rear two o2 sensors and still have the same problems, nor do I want to replace the cats and find out it was the o2 sensors all along. when I smell it in the cab, I do not smell it anywhere else, like: under the hood, or any where else under the truck, nor do I see a leak under the truck.
I have a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with about 135,000 miles on it with a fume problem. Once it's warm, I'm noticing what smells like exhaust fumes in the cabin when stopped or at low speed (not at highway speed.) It runs perfectly otherwise. I took it in a few months ago (before I noticed the correlation with engine temp), and the mechanic could not replicate the problem, and he said there was no exhaust leak, I now suspect this is because he only tested it cold.
View 4 Replies2002 Excursion 4x4 7.3 PSD 90,000 miles Hydra Tuner
the past few days I started smelling diesel fumes in the cab of my truck with bent on and also at the front of the truck when installing new bumper and winch. It's not real strong in the cab but pretty stout at the bumper. I have poped the hood and made a quick visual inspection and from underneath the only evidence of any leak is some power steering fluid which is a different issue (I think)
a week or 2 ago I was cleaning the Ex and noticed 2 or 3 drops of red fluid on the concrete under the Ex I crawled under and looked up and the steering knuckle was pretty wet. Popes the hood and took a look from the top and the power steering pump was sticky and dirty but the only fluid was on the top of the cap.. I'm not real familiar with the set up on the Ex but I have heard the PS support the break booster. From visual inspection it seems as though the fluid is coming they the small (vent?) hole on the cap. What I can/need to do to stop this?
Well I started smelling Gas fumes in the cabin of my 11 GLS. The smell was intermittent for about a month now. Then last weekend it started getting bad. I found it only smelled when pulling fresh air through the HVAC, so it had to be under the hood. Pulled the engine cover to find the foam backing was soaked with gas. Started the car and could see the Hard fuel line dripping.
I saw from other post on the forum that this tube has one time use fitting on both ends and that a special tool is needed to torque the fittings. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and they are replacing the line today.
I tell you all this because the Dealer said that their records show my car had the short block replaced at 24000 miles. When replaced they probably didn't torque the line correctly causing it to leak.
The question I have is, Should I be more or less worried about the bottom end of this engine now that I know it has been replaced? The car has 44000 miles on it now.
I've had my car for 6 months and have noticed that when I start my car with the vent on blowing air I can smell exhaust fumes. It doesn't seem to happen every time and if I start the car with the air off I don't smell anything. I can turn the air on after ten minutes of driving and the smell is there at first then seems to go away, either that or I get used to the smell. My closest dealership is 60 miles away
View 4 RepliesAfter I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
I have a 2010 with 5k miles - bought <4 mos.
Last week, I started noticing a petroleum smell in the cabin. I've also had trouble with the inside windshield. When I tried it wipe it, it just smeared. Finally, I used some cleanser and it's clear. It took several applications to work.
I read in the Gen II forums about a loose oil filter cap. I checked mine today. I was able to turn it about 1/2 inch. Now, I'm getting headaches after I drive for more than 15 minutes or so. I've tried switching the circulation but I can't tell which way is better.
Something really strange is happening as I opened the hood after stopping the car the other day and it seems like something is burning ( doesn't smell like oil ) and smoky is coming out from the left side of engine compartment?!? What can it be as I can't see any oil leaks or anything? can something be melting
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Passat and recently I noticed an exhaust fumes smell inside the car; windows closed. This occurs when driving in no traffic... My circulation is on open or outside air...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Echo 4-door with automatic transmission that is giving me hell. I smelled raw gas fumes coming from the car and checked under the hood and under the car and ended up finding the leak by smelling the fumes right next to the fuel filler door. The car is getting terrible gas mileage (about 26 mpg) but otherwise runs just fine.
My husband took the filler neck off and inspected it. No blockage or damage was found. It was reinstalled and the same problem came back. This time we traced the lines back to the charcoal canister and removed it. It is from this port that the raw gas fumes are escaping to the atmosphere. I should point this out: the gas smell only occurs when the car is running. If I have been driving it for a few minutes and it has warmed up then it is quite strong. There are no fumes when the car is turned off and cooled down.
I've been smelling gasoline fumes outside rear and sides of 2004 Malibu Maxx. No DTCs setting, although I left gas cap off while running, opened port of purge solenoid (also while engine running), and checked all fuses marked emissions. Dealer said they needed to charge $500 just to take tank down to check for leaks. Does not matter if it is cold or been running for an hour.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Mercury Sable. There is a burning smell/fumes whenever I am stopped at a light or put the car in park. The smell comes from the drivers side but I don't smell anything when I am moving. What could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesWhy when I come to a stop with the heater on, the car smells like exhaust? I took in into our local Subaru shop and they couldn't find anything wrong. When I'm driving it's fine, but in town or in traffic, I have to keep shutting off the heater. If I forget, the car fills up fumes and I have to drive with the windows down or my daughter's asthma flares up.
View 14 RepliesI have a 93 Aerostar RWD 4.0L that I was driving around town a few weeks ago and I noticed it wasn't braking that well. The pedal is usually firm but easy to push and very sensitive...instead it was a lot firmer and didn't brake as quickly when i put my foot down. The van itself felt a little under powered, like something was holding it back and I had to put my foot down a lot more to get it up to speed. After awhile I began getting a really bad burning smell coming in through the driver window. I pulled over and saw small faint lines of smoke coming out of the front driver side wheel well, upon closer inspection I got a good wiff of burnt brake pad (I am familiar with the scent) and the hub cap on the wheel was really hot. I automatically assumed the caliper was ceased.
Later when I had free time took the wheel off removed the caliper from the wheel and everything looked fine. I was able to push the piston back in with ease using a C-clamp, but there was a lot of corrosion in and around the piston, I wire brushed it off and greased and cleaned everything up. I took it out since then on a few short trips to the store, everything seemed fine. Today however it happened again, and I began smelling burnt brake pad from the same wheel well. It only seems to happen when I have been driving it for a long time like 30mins to 1hr, short trips everything is fine. Is this the caliper or the Master cylinder? Due to the excessive heat around the wheel hub should i maybe think about replacing the inner and outer wheel bearings as well?
Had numerous problems the last 9 months, and we've replaced the thermostat, water pump, clutch fan, flushed radiator. Last week we thought the heater core had died (air blowing cold, but gauge not indicating any overheating). But it just need flushing, had a clog. Has been kicking out the heat ever since.
What is bothering me though is that the temp gauge always seems to be right at the C, even after driving for a while. Before the van had issues, it stayed right between N and O.
Then this morning, I hear a loud pop, smell horrible burning antifreeze and smoke/steam pouring out from the hood (I managed to park it immediately, had just dropped son off at school). After I'm parked, all the antifreeze puddles underneath.
So hubby comes, and we see that the top radiator hose has blown, with a lovely crack/hole from one side to the other. Now, that hose was old, and probably was a big part of the problem.
We fixed it, and I just drove it again, but I am watching the gauge. And the van is blowing nice, HOT air from the heater. But the gauge is staying right at the C. Used to run between N and O. It is jumpy...not jumping towards hot, but little jumps...below the C, above the C, up to the N, back down to C...it just seems strange to me; it doesn't go past the N at all and spends most of its time at or below the C.
I guess I am wondering if there is any other reason why the hose could've blown this morning besides it being old and worn out....for example, excess heat and pressure building up that for some reason is not registering on the temp gauge? It's making me nervous. Is there something else besides the thermostat that could cause erratic temp gauge or cause gauge not to show me the true engine temp?
Aero, 3.0 Shorty 1989
put a new radiator in my truck, as the original one finally had a small crack.. (I've kept it, since it is brass or copper!)
I put a new 192 T-stat in there too, (OEM temp)
but, now it seems that the van is running hotter than it did before!
when I had the original rad in there, it would never get above the R in the Normal word... now it runs at about M (high middle)
Also, when I tryed to burp it, I'd top it off, but then it would put the extra in the overflow tank, and only stays full up to the very bottom of the filler neck.
this is a plastic radiator... is that what the difference is?
I used to be able to top off the old tank, and it would be right at the top whenever I opened the cap... not so with this one>?
wondering if I should go down to like a 180 degree t-stat? gauge still stays normal - but if it's correct, it's about 50 degress difference.
1991 aerostar 4.0 ... My van was running well til last week.it allegedly has 77000 miles on it. It started running really rough within a 50 mile period. I've quit driving it til I am sure. I am not harming it. I put a vacuum gauge on it. It wildly fluctuates between 3 and 7 pounds at idle. I've tried plugging the four vacuum lines one at a time to eliminate the accessories as the problem.the check engine light is off and my scan tool shows no codes.i unhooked the exhaust at the manifolds to make sure the cats aren't clogged.it doesn't have egr. There's no water in the oil or bubbles in the radiator.i have a compression tester but id like to avoid trying to get to the plugs unless necessary.
View 5 RepliesWinter is over and summer is here. Will running with the AWD module unplugged increase fuel mileage? Will it do any harm to the drivetrain? (Assume matched tires, good alignment and suspension).
Signed, Looking to squeeze a buck anyway I can.
What is the procedure for replacing the fan clutch on the water pump? Mine has a slight wobble when running and I started to pull everything apart but got stuck when I couldn't see how the fan and clutch disconnects from the water pump. It's a '94 4 liter XL extd body...
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