Bought an '04 Aviator 2wd on Saturday. ABS light is on almost all of the time, but it has turned off a few times. Pulled a C1155 code. I removed the left front sensor, and there was no dirt, metal, debris, etc in the hole. Before I buy a new sensor, is there a test procedure to follow on the old sensor??
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Aviator with a 5r55S transmission.
O/D light started flashing, difficult to shift gears, MIL came on with P0745 code
I have changed the filter, installed new solenoid block, adjusted bands, topped off fluid with Mercon V. No change in symptoms.
Just recently started getting what started as an intermittent air bag light that is now on constant. I seem to be getting a code 33.
View 5 RepliesUsed a 2010 or newer SD axle for there Coil conversion ? I did and am having abs issues. It's to cold to spend a lot of time outside figuring it out . I have these codes c1155, c1230,c1233,c1234. The right front sensor is brand new and the speedo works fine. Are the hubs maybe not compatible? Sensors plugged right in.
View 14 RepliesWe have a 2004 Aviator AWD. 73k miles. Trans has been shuddering on the upshift to OD intermittantly. No codes no other symptoms.
I dropped the pan, replaced the filter and 5-6 quarts of fluid with Mercron V fluid. No metal in pan, fluid was not burned, filter only had a small amount of dirt. Very small amount (fine dust)of metal on the magnet. Drove it about 50 miles and noticed the shudder again this morning. I planned on replacing the fluid in the pan again after some miles and time so as to get most of the 12 or so quarts replaced.
I have no codes or CEL. No flashing OD light either...
I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
I am wanting to remove my front drive shaft from my 2004 Aviator for a couple of month's while I save money to have my transfer case replaced. Are there any safety concerns with this? just need a couple of month's to get the money together....
View 5 RepliesI am working on a 2004 aviator 2wd that the abs ratchets on during a normal stop. No codes and all the wheel speed sensors read correctly and match. What happens is the pedal will fall and then hit back up like the abs is ratcheting.
View 3 RepliesMy wifes 04 Aviator gives a check backup assist when in reverse. Checked fuse no problem.
View 2 RepliesO/D light was blinking and "check trans" message was on display. I brought in for service and they changed trans fluid & filter. I have to take back to service center because now tranny is slipping. I would like to have some information before going back. It was not doing this before service. It is OK on highway for most part, happens more when starting out. Also has shut off a few times while sitting at a light. It didn't do any of this before service. What would cause this? Could it be the wrong fluid or not enough added?
View 1 RepliesFirst off, I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3L so I have a GPCM and not a glow plug relay.
I'm getting a P0683 code. My SES light is on all the time. I have a voltmeter plugged into the dash outlet and based on prior behavior, it is definitely not lighting the glow plugs now. The voltage isn't dropping enough. It only goes down to 12.35v or so when the engine is cold. This time of year, it gets to around 70 during the day and 45 or so at night so the plugs aren't strictly needed. It starts without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what could be wrong. The connections are all tight to the GPCM. I've wiggled and pushed them in as far as they go. I recently did a lot of work to the engine, including new injectors, glow plugs, 38R, etc. and I've never had this code before doing any of that work.
I've read a bunch of threads on it... is there any way to troubleshoot this, or do I just get a new GPCM? Can I convert to a GPR? I don't plan on having to pass CA smog as I'm probably moving at the end of the year.
For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
2005 5.4L She would have a hard time starting before but after I replaced and fixed everything below she was running really good. Now back to sputtering, taking a long time to start and now not starting at all.
I have replaced; Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, FPDM, Plugs and COP's, FRP Sensor, followed the power wire from the FDPM and found it corroded bad so I replaced it, also changed the ground location on the FDPM, I have checked all the wires from the FDPM to the drivers seat, checked all fuses.
I have power to FPDM and I have the diagram for the plug but how can I test (hotwire) the Fuel Pump without lowering the fuel tank? What should be the voltage coming from the FPDM plug? not sure about pin 1 & 6.
How can I test the FRP sensor? what are the specs for voltage?
2005 Prius. I just don't want to jump ahead to replace the hybrid batteries right away. Can I still drive the car, some place people say it is okay to drive then eventually it would get weird...
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 1500 with the 5.3V8 motor (ext. cab sb 4x4 LT). I was my dads and had the service engine light on for a long time for the P0446 code. I replaced the vent valve and the purge valve and light keeps coming back on. Usually can go for a day or so and then it comes back on and I get the same P0446 code.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Camry V6. Last weekend, I changed all the spark plugs and five ignition coils. (117,000 miles on car). In January, I replaced the #6 ignition coil. Last week i threw a code for the #2 coil. Fearing the domino affect, I replaced all five remaining coils and changed all 6 spark plugs while i was in there.
Now I am throwing code P0368. This happened immediately after i changed the coils and plugs. What is this about!?!?!? Ive driven it maybe 40 miles since the plug/coil change...engine light is on the whole time. Is this sensor bad or does my car need time to "rethink" with all these new parts ...
04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Lincoln aviator with the 4.6 V-8. When I was seafoaming the car today, afterwards I noticed the truck running a bit rougher, and the truck idles around 500-600 rpms instead of 900-1200 rpms. There was a hose connected to the left valve cover, I pulled it off and there was no change in power or sound or idle. Is the hose a pcv hose, if so, where is the valve on this engine in the aviator, shouldn't it be on the valve cover? Do you think its a vacuum leak cause by the pcv valve/hose or a vacuum leak somewhere else? does aviator 4,6 come with a valve or just a pcv hose?
View 14 RepliesLooking for the location of purge valve on a 2003 aviator ?
View 8 RepliesI have an 03 Aviator with the full-time AWD with about 138,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is reliable and I love it, but I keep noticing a shake and vibration going on, I notice it at almost any speed, I'm pretty sure it gets worse at high speeds and when braking ( especially at high speeds). would this be a transmission problem, a bad cv or u joint? or would it be bad tires or wheel bearings? shocks/struts, rotors?
View 4 RepliesMy other D1S headlight bulb was fainting but didn't got chance to replace it until it went off totally. After replacement everything worked normally but after about one week, the replaced bulb does not lit up every-time. I needed to switch light on and off few times to make it work.
And to be more suspicious, now the other bulb has done to same... haven't lit up always.And couple of times they did it same time, I didn't have headlights in darkness at all. Just bad contacts to bulb or first symptoms of ballasts going to an end? What solution you can use there to clean contact surface not to mess the light housing?