I am lowering the front end of my truck 3" using DJM Dream Beams. I have cut out the rear springs and replaced them with a four link lowering it 4" and installing an air bag suspension. I would like to run air bags up front, as well, but haven't been able to find much about that. What size to use?
View 7 RepliesMy truck in the signature is 21 years old on original Leaf's. Is it time to change them? Do the backs last longer than the fronts?
View 5 RepliesI am doing an sas on my 93 f150 short bed. my issue is that I've made coil spacers out of 1/2" thick by 3" tall by 4" in dia.... as you can see strength is not an issue here. i bought 6" lift coils for a 93' then decided to just say f it and throw a d44 straight axle under it. the springs on a 78' d44 are the same dia. top to bottom. 93' springs get smaller at the bottom so i made this spacer for two reasons.... 1 to have smaller seat for the bottom of the coil.. and 2 so i could make up the spring length difference between the two springs. The spacers are leaning forward due to the 7 degree c bushings on the radius arms.
View 1 RepliesI just had some H&R springs installed and my front suspension is making a funny noise.
It sounds like the front springs are clanking around..
I have a 2005 F250 & both front calipers are locking up. I have replaced the front pads, no change, my mechanic installed a new master cylinder. No lockup for about two weeks until today. Front calibers are locking up again.
View 1 RepliesMy 97 f150 had been sitting for a while and after a few miles I could smell brakes and the left front rotor was hot. So I removed the caliper to see if I could free it up. When i push 1 piston in with a C clamp the other one comes out and visa-verse but I cannot push both in with 2 C clamps. When I push the brake pedal they both come out. Its like there is a check valve in the line. How should I go about trouble shooting this?
View 1 RepliesOn braking my front brakes locks up and there's a screeching of tires. Once I release the pedal all seems fine...or is it?
I dissassembled the front brake calipers and cleaned out the cylinder bores and blew out any contaminants from the line. Reassembled and bled the system only to find the pads doesn't move as freely from the rotors as they should. C-clamped the cylinder as far back in the caliper as it will go, pumped the brakes and still the rotor doesn't move freely from the pads, when the pedal is released...which accounts for the radical "loss of power", as the front brakes are holding on.
Bare in mind the vehicle hasn't seen the long road for almost 5 years and has been under the grinder/ welder/ primer/ sanding for most of that period and only moves out in the driveway when it's a good day to work outside.
New flex hoses? Flush the brake fluid from the whole system and start fresh? New caliper rubber seals? Blow the lines out with compressed air to rid of goop? New proportioning valve?
First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesI've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
View 5 RepliesInitially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
View 14 RepliesDrove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
Have been the owner of a 96 4.0 AWD for 10 yrs and if they still made this van I would get one in a heartbeat. Been doing a search on how to replace the rear coil springs with no luck... is there special tools or procedures involved?
View 8 RepliesI busted a spring and apparently a strut. The mechanic said I'd need to replace the front suspension, and offered to do it for 1000$ which I thought was very high. Now I am debating whether to simply get a cup kit or coil overs. I am leaning towards the cup kit to save money. Now I am curious what you guys think regarding the H&R cup kit and where I could get the best deal on them.
View 23 RepliesI have had a clunk in the front end that started out as a light clunk that was sometimes noticeable. It has now turned into a clunk that can be heard very often. It sounds like a hollow clunk. I'll try to explain it so it makes sense...If I'm going over a bump or speed bump or something like that it doesn't really do it noticeably. If I'm driving a get to a place where the road is uneven or there is a hole or pothole and the front end seems to "fall into the hole", then the sound is very audible, and I can feel it slightly in the steering wheel and under my feet in the drivers floorboard. So, I've had the front end checked out 4 times and between what they said to do and what I've read on here...here is what I've done so far......
Changed end links with moog end links
Changed sway bar bushings with moog bushings
Undid the bushing mounts from the front frame and wired the sway bar up to keep from flopping around. No change in sounds
Didn't get rid of the clunk....
Had front end shop check out truck... They said ball joints were ok, no play in them. They did say that they could feel some "clicking in the pitman arm pivot" when turning the wheel. Like something was loose in box.
I've changed shocks and bearings.
I can grab a hold of the passenger outer tie rod at the adjustment sleeve and rotate the tir rod and it will rotate around in the socket and hitting on the insertion point and make a metal thud sound.
Again, took into shop and they said that would be normal b/c the tie rods have to have that to keep from binding up in front end.
My thinking is that if the tie rod rotates that much, then it is rotating the drag link which in turn puts stress on the pitman arm which in turn has either broken or sheared the pinion shaft inside the box and then when I go over a hole, it moves and all of the above is put into motion.
Shop (Ford) basically called me an idiot and that wouldn't be the cause.
So, now onto my thoughts and questions....
Radius arm bushings
Axle bushings (????? how many and where are they all located)
tie rods and drag links..
I bout a 2010 AWD LS460 in July and immediately noticed noises coming from the rear and front. The rear was a loud thud going over certain bumps and the front is making rattling noises. I lowered the windows and went down a rather bumpy block and the car sound like the bottom is falling out. I took it to the dealer and they had it for 2 and 1/2 weeks waiting on the rear air shocks to come in. They gave it back to me and did not address the front. Now the service manager is going away for two weeks and wants me to come back if I still feel the need to have the from done. The master tech stated the front left suspension needs replacing. I feel they are trying to drag this out so they dont have to pay for the repairs. The car has 80K and was bought from Bay Ridge Lexus and is not under CPO.
View 13 RepliesI've got serious shake going on in the right front. I ordered new wheel bearings but can't figure out how to replace them. Been working on tractors, trucks, boats my whole life and this is embarrassing. '82 F150 straight 6, 4wd, standard trans.
View 4 RepliesI have been having hub locking trouble and finally located a bad vacuum hose. Hose has been replaced. Now when I engage the 4WD and apply a little power, I get a terrible bang out of the front end, then the truck moves on. Sometimes there is a second bang, sometimes not. The chain appears tight in the transfer case and the ujoints look ok. I have turned the wheels with hubs locked one at a time and the joints are free.
View 9 RepliesI have dual fabtech shocks in the front with 10" lift. I want to switch to all icon shocks. I think just the monotube, or are the remote reservoir going to ride a lot better? Would I be better off going back to single shocks in the front or keeping duals?
View 1 RepliesAre there any tricks to replacing the front brake pads on a Hybrid?
View 2 RepliesMy e150 front end shakes at cruising speeds. Has brand new tires and the best balance wheels are up front. I got the van on jack stands check for play on the tie rods and ball joints it all seem to be good and tight.
The only I did notice was that the both wheels move quite a bit from side to side and the culprit is the gear box. I removed the drag link from the Pittman arm at gear box and then i was able to move the Pittman arm at the back and fourth about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch its not a bad Pittman arm cause the movements comes from the gear box itself.
Can that back and fourth movement be adjust by simply adjusting the Allen bolt and nut on the top side of the gear box?
I have a 2002 ford f350 sd crew cab, i have changed the front and rear brakes, since then the steering has gotten sloppy. I was driving around 30-40mph and making a sweeping right turn and the front end was wobbly at a low speed it is fine and on a left turn it is fine. It feels like it is the drivers side tire that is the problem. I have to change the tie rod that is attached to the pitman arm. I don't want to bring it to a shop.
View 7 Replies