Ford - Escape :: 2011 - Odd Noises From Right Rear Drum Brake
Jul 22, 2011
Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
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I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
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I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
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I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
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I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
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I bought my accent in 2006 and it came with rear drum brakes and I want to know if it is possible to switch to rear disc brakes. I know that newer accents have all disc brakes so maybe it wont be that hard, but what do I need? I dont have abs. I asked the dealer like a year ago and they told me they wont do it. I have seen this conversion before in other cars that did not have rear disc brakes in newer versions either.
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Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
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So I'm in the process of doing a rear brake job on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Drum brakes. And (shocker - especially for a northern car that never had the job done before) the drum won't come off. I've spent two days with a propane blowtorch, PB Blaster, and a 3lb hammer. No dice. It won't even budge.
So now I'm thinking about taking an angle grinder to the drum and just replacing both (probably necessary, as I'm sure it's in terrible shape). I'm really at my last option here.
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Worthless Chilton's manual went in trash. I don't have a working PC and Im unable to find a diagram for the rear brake drum of my 2005 camry.
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Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
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I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
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Just need to know how common this brake adjusting lever is? Awhile back I rebuilt my whole brake system and for some unknown reason the DS rear drum brake wants to keep over adjusting. Checked and double checked everything but can't see what would be causing it.
The fix has been to pull the wheel and drum and back off the adjuster but that's getting old. If I had more time and enthusiasm, I'd switch the shoes and hardware side to side to see if the problem follows the hardware. My solution for now is go with manual adjustment and to disable the DS adjuster by cutting off the end of the lever.
Before I hack up a lever I'd like to have a back up in case there is any problem. Not sure if the junkyard will have what I'm looking for and don't see the correct style lever on Rockauto or at my local parts places. My luck is to cut up a part that's hard to find.
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Received the truck, 1989 Ranger XLT long bed single cab from my mom. It had been used by my younger brothers for some years, and then sat at mom's for a couple years.
It needed new front brakes badly, so replaced rotors, and pads. No unexpected problems there.
Looked at replacing the rear. Both adjuster cables were initially broken, so they obviously weren't adjusting, or braking. Replaced with a hardware kit, and shoes, and drums. Its the 9" drums, BTW.
Still not actually braking. I can tell this, when at a stop sign in the winter, with the brake pedal held down, and the backs will still spin, with the tranny in D. Even on gravel or grass, this'll happen.
One shop told me this is because the axle seals are leaking. THey've never leaked badly, and the axle fluid isn't low, by and shade of the imagination. Also, this theory falls apart, when the parking brake works just fine, right? Its just hydraulically that they don't work.
I've since replaced the wheel cylinders, the brake line from the frame to the rear axle, and the master cylinder. No change. Bleeding them doesn't seem to be a problem; i.e. no lack of or little fluid witnessed, it seem fine.
Also have bypassed the RABS valve for about a year or so, and its made no difference. Last fall I pulled the drums off, and manually adjusted them, and it didn't seem much better either.
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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Changing rear drum brakes to discs? I've done it with my 94 explorer, and i was wondering if the axles are the same, just swap the hardware like the explorers are.
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Two months ago, my 2011 Ford Escape (27,000 miles) was sounding great. I took it in for a standard oil change and tire rotation. When I picked it up they mentioned that they found a nail in what is now the passenger-front tire and patched it for me. When I drove it home, I could hear a sound like "whom whom whom whom whom" coming from the front-end between 45 and 60 MPH.
I gave them the benefit of the doubt and drove it for 2 months until yesterday when I finally had enough and took it back to have them look for a cause to the problem. They said it needed an alignment and we went ahead and did that. HOWEVER, they said that after the alignment, the car would make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles and then it would go away. I got the car back, and at best it sounds the same, and at worst it maybe sounds worse than it did.
My question: Is there any reason the car should make the same sound for 500 to 1000 miles after the alignment? Also, was it an alignment problem or do I need new tires or something else? I suspect I have been screwed by the dealership.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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