Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Drum Brake Adjusting Lever?
Oct 12, 2016
Just need to know how common this brake adjusting lever is? Awhile back I rebuilt my whole brake system and for some unknown reason the DS rear drum brake wants to keep over adjusting. Checked and double checked everything but can't see what would be causing it.
The fix has been to pull the wheel and drum and back off the adjuster but that's getting old. If I had more time and enthusiasm, I'd switch the shoes and hardware side to side to see if the problem follows the hardware. My solution for now is go with manual adjustment and to disable the DS adjuster by cutting off the end of the lever.
Before I hack up a lever I'd like to have a back up in case there is any problem. Not sure if the junkyard will have what I'm looking for and don't see the correct style lever on Rockauto or at my local parts places. My luck is to cut up a part that's hard to find.
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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I got a 03 sport trac and need to adjust the parking brake on it, needs to be tightened up, does not hold on the slightest incline, cables are not broke they where just never taken care of, its a disc brake with drum in the middle
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I'm having a problem with my rear drum brakes locking up when I press the brake pedal. I've had this problem before, but ignored it because it wasn't too bad. It would just release after taking my foot off the brake pedal.
1998 F-150 XLT supercab 4x4 front discs, rear drums 4.6L v8 175k miles
I cleaned my master cylinder and bled all brake lines so they have fresh fluid. Now that my brakes work way better, my rears just lock up. I put new brake cylinders on, still locking up. I went to a junkyard today and replaced the proportional check valve, brakes still locking up.
Could I maybe have did something wrong when cleaning the master cylinder? I'm sure I put it back together correctly. Anything else i should look at? bad lines maybe?
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Changing rear drum brakes to discs? I've done it with my 94 explorer, and i was wondering if the axles are the same, just swap the hardware like the explorers are.
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I got a 2002 f150, right now it has a 9.75 with disc brakes. But it exploded. I can only find a 9.75 with drums in the wrecking yard. Can I just swap my disc brakes on to the axle with drums?
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My 97 4.6 ran fine but the 4x4 light came on even when the transfer case lever was in 2wd. Then one day it would not start. It cranked over fine but would not fire. I added fuel but it didn't work. I pulled a spark plug lead and attached a spark plug while I jumped the solenoid and cranked over the engine to visually check for a spark as I have done on older trucks. Well it cranked a couple of times and then it died and won't even crank now, I must've fried something, the batterys fine. If there is a fuse or something? What could have happened when I jumped the solenoid?
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So I drive a 19 97 F150 v8 5.4 4x4 and while on the freeway I noticed that my overdrive button was blinking on the shift lever. The truck wasn't driving any different than usual, so Im just trying to figure out what this means.
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I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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I accidentally broke the control lever where the cruize control attaches. I've looked all over but I can't find the lever. Where I could buy just the lever? New throttle body is more than I want to spend.
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4x4 wont work, when I shift the lever on the floor it doesn't engage so i bought two new solenoids.. didn't work, have power on both solenoid connections. If I unhook my vacuum lines from the solenoid, I can push the Actuator rod in making my 4x4 work. I've gone threw everything.. have vacuum, have power on my solenoids. Just nothing works when I shift into 4x4 on the floor.
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I intended to purchase a 1997 F150 4x4 today and found that the manual transfer case lever will not move at all. I have read the manual and it seems simple to move from 2H to 4H (at stop of up to 55mph). No movement in the lever at all. Owner said he never uses it and has no idea what is wrong.
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The Speed Needle works fine. But...the Odometer part quit some time ago. I can't tell what my fuel Mileage is now. How to troubleshoot this problem?
Things that might affect this problem; Transmission skids loudly when going in and out of 4-OD. It could be the Torque converter clutch?
The Gear shift lever is sloppy. Doesn't fill me with Confidence.
Brake fluid warning light is on most of the time. Fluid level is up hi though. Driver door mirror control switch don't work in one direction Who on this Forum has a Switch for me?
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I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
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Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
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I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
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I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
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I was wondering if there is any way to easily adjust the parking brake so it bites tighter. I took it to Lexus of Pohanka and they told me that it's normal in a Lexus car to have to press the parking brake all the way to the carpet to get it to engage. I immediately debunked this when I recieved a loaner and engaged the parking brake and it grabs a lot sooner.
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Is the brake light supposed to come on when the E-brake is depressed? It's not right now, bulb?
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