Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - Fuse 26 Keeps Blowing / HVAC Blower Motor Turned Off
Jul 29, 2016
I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Blower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 Replies
I bought my youngest daughter a used 2009 Ford Escape (out of warranty) a week ago. Manual HVAC controls, 3.0 V6, AWD, 73K miles. The HVAC blower motor do not seem to move any air on speed 1 and 2. However speeds 3 and 4 appear to operate normally. Speed 4 noticeably puts out more volume of air then 3. Each 3 and 4 operator what seems to be normal speeds for their setting.
I would normally suspect resistor but my experience is usually that you have all or nothing not it's partially working like this is. I don't mind throwing a new resistor in there and trying it but I rather come up with a better way of troubleshooting it then throw parts at it.
View 5 Replies
Where the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
View 11 Replies
I am struggling with it, and need to get it done - by myself, as I can't afford a service job. I am handy, and comfortable doing it, But I am confused about how to get into the blower housing.
View 4 Replies
My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
View 9 Replies
The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
View 3 Replies
It started with the blower motor that wouldn't turn off by itself when the truck was turned off. I forgot to turn the fan off one night and woke up to a dead battery. Got my dad to come give me a boost and it would turn but not start and the anti theft light in the dash was blinking fast.
Later in the day I got another boost and it started right up.
This was yesterday... after the last boost and startup I went and got a few things, stopped to get gas... started back up fine each time.
Last night I was greasing zerks and making sure everything in the front end was nice and tight when the abs module started clicking... and the anti theft started blinking and truck wouldn't start. Left it alone and went to bed.
This morning I boosted it and it started fine. Later in the day it wouldn't start again because of the anti theft. Gave it 5 minutes and it started. Stopped to get gas... wouldn't start (anti theft)... started after about 5 minutes.
On the way back home... it's been making this 5 beep, pause, 5 beeps, pause sequence so I pulled it into the garage and turned it off now the locks are locking/unlocking by themselves randomly, the beeping is on and off, anti theft light blinks for a few minutes then goes away only to come back...
I've been told to remove the fuse box under the hood and check to make sure all connections are clean... I've searched and seen possible solutions ranging from a dirty connection to needing a new GEM module and apparently sometimes just a low voltage situation will cause our trucks to act nuts...
View 14 Replies
The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
View 10 Replies
Is it true that if your drain lines are clogged water will backflow to the relay in the fuse box?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2007 Ford Escape with a passenger side low beam that won't turn on when the headlights are turned on. I have replaced both low beam lights and checked all the fuses. Fuses are ok,none are burned out. My high beams work perfectly as well as my fog lamps. I need any and all advice and information , including any simple wiring diagrams that could be of use . Is it possible that the multi function switch for the turn lights and headlights is the problem?.
View 10 Replies
I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
View 14 Replies
So i bought an excursion 3 or 4 days ago and yesterday I went to install a double din dvd receiver. As I was installing something shorted out and I blew the radio fuse. No big deal or so I thought. Got the radio in and replaced the fuse but then the X wouldn't start. Went through everything and found a 5 amp fuse and a 15 amp fuse blown as well. Turns out the 15 amp fuse is for starter motor or something. Well I replaced the fuses and they kept blowing. Unhooked the radio completely and still keep blowing and the X is still obviously not starting. Pulled every relay I could in hopes something would reset and nothing. Any clue what it could be at this point?
View 14 Replies
The wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 Replies
A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2003 ford escape V6 and i have notice when i start it' after setting overnight i notice some blue smoke for a little while then it's stop What could be causing this.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
View 8 Replies
I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
View 10 Replies
2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
View 3 Replies
