Ford Escape / Hybrid :: High Mileage Eco Boost Motors?
Feb 25, 2017
We are looking at buying the new style Escape, either new or a few years old, but I'm worried about the life of an Eco Boost motor (a 4cyl. turbo scare me).
We drive around 25-30k miles a year, and would like keep it past the 200+k mile mark. I'm concerned about a turbo charge motor holding up that long and what type of issues would i have to look forward too?
We have a 2008 Mariner AWD with the V6 it has 200+k miles on it and it's been an awesome little SUV. i want the same quality in my next vehicle too.
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
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After driving and shut off and restarting like going into gas station etc idles up pretty high for a while no matter if it is hot or cold outside and have to wait 30- 60 secs to come down to normal...
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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Background: No A/C. Identified Clutch had completely failed. I replaced the clutch.
Status: I turned on the A/C and I saw the clutch come on...it was on for maybe 60s. During that time, the vents started to get cold! After 60s it never came on again.
Troubleshooting: I have refrigeration gauges but not much idea how to read the result. I hooked them up and noted about 350psi for the HP side, and about 100psi for the LP side. I think this tells me I should have enough charge in the system to cycle the compressor.
At this point I don't want to start random troubleshooting as I don't want to touch the refrigerant loop more than necessary. A few questions:
1) The HPCO switch, I was reading that it's mounted on a Shrader valve. Is this the case? I'd like to remove it and test at which point it switches. I have not tried bypassing it.
2) Do our vehicles have a temperature sensor near the evaporator? If so, whereabouts is it located?
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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I just bought a 2010 Escape XLT 4 cyl. The mpg is showing to be 16.7, which is really low compared to what it's supposed to be. I bought it off of a car lot and it had been discounted so I'm guessing it was sitting there for a while before it was sold. Do you think that would cause the mpg to be low? I've driven it on the highway and around town. I've had it for 2 days, but it's freaking me out thinking that there is something wrong with it.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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Get a set of real gauges if you want to do diagnostics. 110 psi on the low side indicates that the system isn't running at the time and that the underhood temp is around 100 F.
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Ok, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
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Had to change the alternator in the 3.0l fwd escape. if some one knows of an easy way to get it out i would love to know. We had to take the manifold cover off right down to the "o" rings as well as what ever we could undo to make a gap between the engine and the fire wall. it took us so long that the repair shop was closed and we had to leave my engine apart overnight with tissue stuffed in the pistons. The one part you know your going to have to get to to fix, and it's almost impossible to get at. It would have been easier to tilt the engine, but we had no hoist, is there an easier way...
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How can I test to find out if there is water in my fuel tank , fuel lines, etc. The symptoms are obvious, how do I test for sure. In the event that I'm correct, what can I do to get it out of the tank and fuel system.
I suspect that a lower form of life has put water in the gas tank of my 2003 Escape 3.0L . I sent it to a shop, that was a nightmare . They came up with every misfire and etc. Including bad windshield wipers burned out light bulbs .
Trying to sell me new coils plugs , etc etc ... even though I kept telling them that of course its misfiring if there is water in the fuel. Please test for water in the gas .
I finally went and took the car with intake plenum pulled off. Paid them half of R&R for pulling the plenum and I'm back to square one. They did everything but check for water in my gas tank or fuel lines.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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My daughters 2010 Escape (V6 - 3.0L motor) had the check engine light come on back in February, while she was away at school. Well, now she is home and I want to fix it. I have tried all the things I can think of and have found on the web, but no success. I pulled the whole Evap canister assembly down and tested the Evap vent solenoid by itself, and it works (opens and closes). Physically can see if cycle when I apply 12v to it. When I reinstalled it I cleaned up the o-rings and lightly greased them up to seal better in case they were leaking by. Before pulling the whole unit down, I checked and with the key on, there is 12v on the plug feeding this solenoid, but I physically wanted to see it move and it looks good.
Next, I pulled the hose feeding the top of the purge valve, located under the hood, to see if I had vacuum leaking when the car was running. I did not, so if I understand the operation correctly, I am good there as well. What else could be causing the car to dump this code??
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I had a misfire and my CEL came on had it read and it said cylinder 4 was misfiring and that there was a misfire in the first 1,000 RPM's. I replaced the COP and plug and now I'm getting terrible MPG. I tried to reset the PCM by removing the Neg. battery connection and it seemed to work for 4 days now my MPG has gone bad again. It seems to run smooth/good.
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